"Whitetail Hollow" - 90 Acres NE Oklahoma.
- Thread starter OkieKubota
- Start date
Right on the exact line other than a short section on the SE section where we were fencing before the surveyor got to it. The fence is about 8 feet on our side right there. I already told the adjoining neighbor right there I am tearing it out and moving it over. I already set post...
Some areas neighbors let us clear both sides but the ones I couldn't find we just cleared our side in that area. Not too worried about brush with it all being solid woods and fence is really shaded...
Hinged the rest of the county road frontage today on the west side of our gate...it was a little tricky with lots of wind gust...
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catscratch
Well-Known Member
Looks great! You're a brave man working with trees in this wind. I didn't even fire up the saw once today.
I felled a few big hickories back in the woods as well but I looked at the lean and the wind direction and what they were going to fall on when they came down and then started my cut and let them fall to area of least resistance. I have noticed we have very, very few dead falls on our place so the walking in the woods is mainly unencumbered. I am now started to drop big trees to open the canopy and give the deer something to bed against...kind of like structure for fish...
I have 500 trees that I asked to be sent in March. I am hoping dozer work is done by then...
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dogdoc
Well-Known Member
Holy Cow--500 trees. Old man where do you find the energy to plant 500 trees? I'm stressed about the 20 I have to plant. You must be taking some extra T
I plant 500 seedlings a year in these rocks...thought about ordering another 200 and May still. My wife says I am getting youngerHoly Cow--500 trees. Old man where do you find the energy to plant 500 trees? I'm stressed about the 20 I have to plant. You must be taking some extra T
Mrs. Kubota
Active Member
Yes, while I'm getting older.I plant 500 seedlings a year in these rocks...thought about ordering another 200 and May still. My wife says I am getting younger
I would check the state laws as I was told that in kansas if you have a fence that is used to keep livestock in for 7 years then it becomes the property line.I believe this as I know landowners that have recorded letters on their deeds that they moved a fence so they didn't have to tear out a hedge row.So they would put on there that the fence was not to be construed as the property line and was moved for convenience.I know you may not be keeping livestock but it may matter someday
I built the fence 3 years ago myself as there was no fence at all. I WILL have it moved by next year, I already put the post in on the line...the adjoining landowner has no beef with it and has no livestock.
Well Sunday always seems to be my habitat work day...
The canvas is some very open woods...
Used about 4 tanks in the little MS 170...
Cuts were made at about my shoulder height...
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The canvas is some very open woods...
Used about 4 tanks in the little MS 170...
Cuts were made at about my shoulder height...
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catscratch
Well-Known Member
Looks good. No ice this weekend?
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Not a bit of ice and only about 2/10's of rain...misted the last 3 days...
dogdoc
Well-Known Member
I'm usually pooped out after 1 tank.
Well it looks like I may be caught up enough to do some work this coming weekend. I have tentatively scheduled a controlled burn with a few friends of mine on about 6 acres of our woods. All leaf litter and a downed limbs for fuel. I have checked the Mesonet and it shows about 10:00 AM both days this weekend being a good time to burn. My only issue is we could have up to 14 MPH wind it shows. The area to be burned all has a narrow woods road as a firebreak with no leaves or grass for it to cross unless something blows across. Wind will be WNW and will be burning down to a point on the East end as the area is a pie shaped unit. I will have my spray rig on my 4 wheeler with water and also I have a big Stihl backpack sprayer with water and the usual rakes and shovels. I will also have my tractor and loader if I need to scrape anything out. I will try to contact the fire department and neighbors in the general area. We are pretty dry in our area but the entire fuel load will mainly just be leaf litter.
Anyone see any issues?
Anyone see any issues?
The OK protocol is to call sheriff's office and state (district office) forestry in advance.....call them when you start and when you end....I also call forestry the week before.....they should dispatch local VFD and screen calls from neighbors reporting fire. Schedule alternate dates when help is available....need 3 days of static wind conditions ideally. Need some type of communication...radios preferable...phones may lose service. Should work out just fine on 6 ac....have snacks and water available for crew then buy their dinner when done! Helps to have a PTO tank and spray wand on tractor as a backup.
Start at SE corner....two ignition crews going opposite way...take time igniting each side allowing fire to carry and create a nice black out area and edge burn out before advancing to next side. You actually need decent wind speed to move air 0-3' off forest floor when fire is in a fully timbered unit.....most of the wind shears above timber canopy thus less is available to carry fire at ground zero. The road on upwind side and perpendicular to wind flow.....watch out for eddies and fire devils there jumping the road. It is usually harder to carry fire in leaf clutter than grass because leaves hold humidity much longer....grass can burn well at 55% humidity but leaves need 40% or less. Cut and remove volatile fuels (cedars >6', trellised greenbrier, large slash, and dead snags over 10' tall) within 20 yrds of upwind and flank breaks...and within 50 yards of downwind side....that markedly reduces the chance of ember and fire brand escapes over the break and fire generated variable wind on the edge. Terrain redirects wind flow so know how a NW wind will flow on all sides of the unit. My guess is that your best leaf and woody fuel burn conditions will occur starting around noon to 1....deteriorating before 4 PM with poor carry before 11 AM. Use the mesonet fire prescription planner as a tentative guide.....then do small area test burns to confirm fire carry rate and actual start time.
First time timber burns usually go fairly smooth but slow with a common risk being a large log/stump next to break left smoldering then leading to a fire escape when wind changes several days later...or downwind side was lit too early and fire carry was spotty leaving unburned fuel which can rekindle mid-afternoon. Plan ahead to avoid having issues and always remember fire creates in own wind based on it's intensity....the whole thing can change in a heartbeat...experience is a great teacher! The goal for a safe fire should be to burn the whole unit fuel load in a smooth pass while conditions are favorable then have it naturally extinguish when conditions wane in the evening....check on it the next morning and either extinguish smoldering debris or move well off of break..
Start at SE corner....two ignition crews going opposite way...take time igniting each side allowing fire to carry and create a nice black out area and edge burn out before advancing to next side. You actually need decent wind speed to move air 0-3' off forest floor when fire is in a fully timbered unit.....most of the wind shears above timber canopy thus less is available to carry fire at ground zero. The road on upwind side and perpendicular to wind flow.....watch out for eddies and fire devils there jumping the road. It is usually harder to carry fire in leaf clutter than grass because leaves hold humidity much longer....grass can burn well at 55% humidity but leaves need 40% or less. Cut and remove volatile fuels (cedars >6', trellised greenbrier, large slash, and dead snags over 10' tall) within 20 yrds of upwind and flank breaks...and within 50 yards of downwind side....that markedly reduces the chance of ember and fire brand escapes over the break and fire generated variable wind on the edge. Terrain redirects wind flow so know how a NW wind will flow on all sides of the unit. My guess is that your best leaf and woody fuel burn conditions will occur starting around noon to 1....deteriorating before 4 PM with poor carry before 11 AM. Use the mesonet fire prescription planner as a tentative guide.....then do small area test burns to confirm fire carry rate and actual start time.
First time timber burns usually go fairly smooth but slow with a common risk being a large log/stump next to break left smoldering then leading to a fire escape when wind changes several days later...or downwind side was lit too early and fire carry was spotty leaving unburned fuel which can rekindle mid-afternoon. Plan ahead to avoid having issues and always remember fire creates in own wind based on it's intensity....the whole thing can change in a heartbeat...experience is a great teacher! The goal for a safe fire should be to burn the whole unit fuel load in a smooth pass while conditions are favorable then have it naturally extinguish when conditions wane in the evening....check on it the next morning and either extinguish smoldering debris or move well off of break..
Excellent advice! I called forestry this afternoon and they said I am good to go but that if I could I might notify the local fire department which I did on my way home. They said I have no requirement to call the sheriff.
Fire department guy told me that leaf blowers can also be of great help so those will be utilized as well.
Starting burn at SE corner will be a must and I think we have everything in order.
I have already done some small burns on our "house side" of the road but now we are moving into the deer management unit. It's kind of funny because I used to have a 60 acre place I would burn by myself many years ago all at one time but it was a much less litigious time than now...
Thanks
