A Walk Through Sam's Place
- Thread starter Doctorbrady
- Start date
Doctorbrady
Well-Known Member
I haven't been back out there yet, but looking at the rainfall totals from the nearest 2 towns (10 miles on either side), it looks like I should have gotten over 2" of rainfall in the past few days! Hallelujah!
Doctorbrady
Well-Known Member
Thanks for posting Brush. My neighbors think I'm setting fence posts when I'm actually planting full sized trees. With trucheons a forest can be planted in a day!
If we have normal moisture, those truncheons should be 15-20 feet tall by deer season and make a partial screen.
Sampson
Active Member
Brush,
I'm curious to hear how the Mulberrys truncheons did after planting. Is there anything special you need to do after planting these to get them established. If you can provide any more information about this concept such as size of truncheon, time from cut to planting etc, I would appreciate it as this is all new to me. Thanks for sharing.
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I'm curious to hear how the Mulberrys truncheons did after planting. Is there anything special you need to do after planting these to get them established. If you can provide any more information about this concept such as size of truncheon, time from cut to planting etc, I would appreciate it as this is all new to me. Thanks for sharing.
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catscratch
Well-Known Member
I'm curious about the mulberry truncheons too.
I read over the weekend that you need to let them set in the shade for a day or two after cutting and before planting to "harden" off the cuts. This was to prevent rot and promote root growth. It also said that the top cut should be angled to prevent water from pooling and soaking into the wood.
I read over the weekend that you need to let them set in the shade for a day or two after cutting and before planting to "harden" off the cuts. This was to prevent rot and promote root growth. It also said that the top cut should be angled to prevent water from pooling and soaking into the wood.
Truncheons are giant cuttings. Cut them when the tree has not broken bud, so now is the time. They should be about the size of a fence post and 6-8 feet long. Plant 3-4 feet deep, and you're done.
These truncheons were cut one day and planted the next, but they could be cut one weekend and planted the next. The tree the truncheons sere taken from with rapidly grow back.
These truncheons were cut one day and planted the next, but they could be cut one weekend and planted the next. The tree the truncheons sere taken from with rapidly grow back.
Doctorbrady
Well-Known Member
I tried "hardening" some truncheons last year, planting them a week or so after the initial set. I had both mulberry and poplar in the group, and all but one died. It didn't help that they got no rain for a few weeks.
Drought obviously doesn't help, but truncheons have more reserve energy than a small cutting. My neighbor had good bottom land soil and had 50% success with Mulberry truncheons during drought. At Doctorbrady's we planted in dry soil, and that was followed by drought, so his Mulberry died. In lower ground Doctorbrady's HP was a 100% success!
I prefer fresh, and don't see hardening off as a factor. In drought, "Hardening off" = loss of moisture. I can't think of a single plant that needs to lose moisture to grow???
I prefer fresh, and don't see hardening off as a factor. In drought, "Hardening off" = loss of moisture. I can't think of a single plant that needs to lose moisture to grow???
Doctorbrady
Well-Known Member
With the rain we are finally getting this year's truncheons should have a pretty good go. This will be a great test for the mulberry.
I'm guessing 100% success!
