soil test- interperate

[buckhunter10]

guys total per farm I need about 161lbs of N, 235 P and 256 K

The N is recommended but most of what I will be planting is beans, I will plant my brassicas later this year but I would just hit those with 46-0-0 and till it in at the time of planting.

My question what is the most affordable route to getting this accomplished? I will call seed mills near me tomorrow to see if they can mix something up and what it would cost to hit those numbers. When I looked at bag fert it is very costly.

thank you!

 

[MarkDarvin]

300 lbs urea (N)
450 lbs MAP (P)
500 lbs potash (K)

Double check my math with an expert, but that might get you close.

 

[buckhunter10]

300 lbs urea (N)
450 lbs MAP (P)
500 lbs potash (K)

Double check my math with an expert, but that might get you close.

Is this total for farm? I already gave totals the numbers recommended are based on per acre. You can't find my totals needed unless you know the given size of each plot. Or are these numbers something else I am missing?

 

[Smallplot]

the lime was just pelletized lime from the local co-op.

Ag lime is usually Dolomitic lime and can contain even more Mg. The only way to combat high Mg soils is to add Ca. With a PH already above 7, adding lime is not feasible as high PH is just as bad as low ph.

Adding Gypsum can add Ca without changing the soils PH. This can allow one to balance the ratio between Ca and Mg. The Sulfur in Gypsum can react with the Mg and form epsom salt. As long as the salts are able freely move down into the soil there is not a problem but if they can not, the high salt levels can prove problematic as well.

I touched briefly on how high Mg soils can act but let's look a little closer. High Mg soils can have issues with water infiltration/run off and are more prone to compaction issues and water lodging. We all know that too much water is just as bad as no water but areas that hold water can be prone to high sodium levels. One key to healthy soils is water infiltration and the ability for the water to quickly permeate throughout the soil profile. This is why you may see farmers adding tile in areas one would expect to drain well enough already.

Ca and Mg should take up about a combined 85 percent of the CEC of your soil. Another measurement to look at would be with base saturations with Ca being between 70 and 80% and Mg being between 10 to 13 percent. Looking at these numbers can provide a better measure than looking at the graph supplied on most commercially available soil tests.

Looking a little deeper one needs to consider where the individual samples were taken and more specifically if the areas are prone to having issues then tests results may already be skewed.

If this too much for a good plot? May be, but it gives perspective to soil tests and just what they can tell you about your soil.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Smallplot]

Is this total for farm? I already gave totals the numbers recommended are based on per acre. You can't find my totals needed unless you know the given size of each plot. Or are these numbers something else I am missing?

Believe this was from the actual content of each. Urea is around 48% N so in 100 lbs you only have 48 pounds of N. to get your recommendations you provided you have to actually apply more poundage to reach the numbers provided usually. The same is true with P and K.

Unless the numbers you provided are already calculated for the difference as in total amount to apply to reach necessary amounts as some commercially available tests do.

The cheapest method will be to get bulk fertilizer as it is the most economical. Don't have the current costs but they are given in $ per ton. You do not need a ton of any so if it is $400 per ton and you only need 300 pounds...... you may have to pay a small fee for mixing but they are usually very low.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MarkDarvin]

Is this total for farm? I already gave totals the numbers recommended are based on per acre. You can't find my totals needed unless you know the given size of each plot. Or are these numbers something else I am missing?

Like small plot said, I'm just working backwards from the percentages in each of those products based on the pounds you said you needed. Urea is somewhere in the high 40's for N content, MAP is about 48% P with about 11% N, and potash is 60% K. It gets even crazier depending on which language you're speaking (phosphorus vs phosphate).

That's why I say double check with a fertilizer dealer to be sure. I'd just hand him your tests. You're going to buy around a half ton. That should be worth a couple minutes advice. They may not even carry the same types of fertilizer where you are vs here.

Ask the guy you're buying from. It'll be the best two minutes of habitat work you do all year.

 

[buckhunter10]

Like small plot said, I'm just working backwards from the percentages in each of those products based on the pounds you said you needed. Urea is somewhere in the high 40's for N content, MAP is about 48% P with about 11% N, and potash is 60% K. It gets even crazier depending on which language you're speaking (phosphorus vs phosphate).

That's why I say double check with a fertilizer dealer to be sure. I'd just hand him your tests. You're going to buy around a half ton. That should be worth a couple minutes advice. They may not even carry the same types of fertilizer where you are vs here.

Ask the guy you're buying from. It'll be the best two minutes of habitat work you do all year.

ok thank you all for the responses. Here is what I did to come up with my total pounds needed. I realize I can mix several different types of ferts or have a co-op mix the fert for me.

Here is the math behind my calculations:
For example Double Stand is not an acre it is only 1/4 of an acre
Suggest N,P, K for this plot is 30,60,120 per acre
30*.25 = 7.5lbs N
60*.25 = 15 P
120*.25 = 30 K

Does this make sense as to how I came up, these numbers? I did this for every plot and I came up the totals
161 - N
235- P
256 - K

I am not sure why I am getting a recommendation for N when I am planting mixes of chicory, clover, and beans in other plots.......

 

[Smallplot]

ok thank you all for the responses. Here is what I did to come up with my total pounds needed. I realize I can mix several different types of ferts or have a co-op mix the fert for me.

Here is the math behind my calculations:
For example Double Stand is not an acre it is only 1/4 of an acre
Suggest N,P, K for this plot is 30,60,120 per acre
30*.25 = 7.5lbs N
60*.25 = 15 P
120*.25 = 30 K

Does this make sense as to how I came up, these numbers? I did this for every plot and I came up the totals
161 - N
235- P
256 - K

I am not sure why I am getting a recommendation for N when I am planting mixes of chicory, clover, and beans in other plots.......

I see your math and yes, using a quarter of the amount the recommend per acre due to plot size. This is correct IF you did not supply the size of the plot with the soil test and their recommendations are based on an acre.

7 pounds of N per quarter acre is about useless in my opinion. There may be some benefit if planting soybeans to add similar amounts of N just for an early boost while still allowing the plant to produce nodules and form it's own N from the air.

Clovers and similar do not get any N by me unless one of two happen. (1) I apply a mix of potash and DAP which will have a small amount of N or (2) the area is small and for convenience I use bagged 12-12-12 available locally. Other than that I save adding N to crops like corn and brassica which need N to perform to expectations.

As far as why N is given as a recommendation, every "crop" uses N and the rates supplied with tests are based on assumed use rates based on the tonnage or bushels per acre specified (or assumed specified with many of these commercial tests).




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Ed Brodt]

I have been using this calculator to do my math. Works especially good when working with odd size plots less than an acre. Look it over closely there are several options for entering different data. I put in about 5-6 plots and each one was a bit different on what soil tests called for.
http://aesl.ces.uga.edu/soil/fertcalc/

 

[Jason Broom]

What would I do if these were the soil survey results for ground in Appalachia? I'd rejoice and start planning my food plots!

With just a little more work, your soils are going to be capable of growing just about anything you want. I don't agree with just accepting what you have, in terms of OM and especially CEC. Every small improvement made in those two numbers means measurably better production from your plots.

Definitely figure out a way to increase the Ca on your ground; the proportion of Ca to Mg you have currently is the inverse of what it would be, ideally. Correcting this will help with infiltration, nutrient uptake and your CEC baseline.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[buckhunter10]

What would I do if these were the soil survey results for ground in Appalachia? I'd rejoice and start planning my food plots!

With just a little more work, your soils are going to be capable of growing just about anything you want. I don't agree with just accepting what you have, in terms of OM and especially CEC. Every small improvement made in those two numbers means measurably better production from your plots.

Definitely figure out a way to increase the Ca on your ground; the proportion of Ca to Mg you have currently is the inverse of what it would be, ideally. Correcting this will help with infiltration, nutrient uptake and your CEC baseline.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Thanks Jason. Happy you are on here buddy!