Shooting house tips, tricks and other ideas

[swat1018]

This blind is from 95. Had 350" of snow a few years ago. Darn near flat.

An engineering masterpiece!

 

[Berserker]

I got 2 more just like it,with flat roofs,and 20 years old.

 

[Berserker]

My bear blind is sorta like a ladder stand, about 3x3. Got the idea from shadow elevators. But has not seen over 300".

I am not purring my stamp on this, just what I have observed. Is a 6 foot to big? Dunno. But gable style is 3 feet span only. Mine are simple she'd style roofs wit rafters.

One I ran the header on my table saw. To give me the angle I needed instead of bird mouthing.

 

[j-bird]

I have had no issue with an unsupported flat roof (ribbed barn siding) on the 2 blinds I have built thus far......but I also average 13" of snow a year. I can see where areas of far more snow need to take that into consideration. I appreciate all the input and have been able to pick up a few improvement ideas to help make my version 3.0 a better build. I think I will be looking at 4 x 6 or 5 x 6 at the biggest. I just don't think I need more than that.....if they get too big I may have issues with folks wanting to move in....I'm building hunting blinds not apartments!

 

[willy]

Something that I do for my windows is use synthetic decking with the grooves already in them or I dado out a groove. I then go to lowes and get the size of plexi glass that fits the grooves well. The person that works the area with the plexi will cut the plexi to the dimensions I give. The windows usually run around 100 dollars for the whole blind.

I have been using windows like this since '09. I changed out my flip windows after twice spooking deer with the shining reflection shooting off the window when I opened it and it hit the right angle to make that happen.I haven't experienced any spooked deer since going to the sliding windows. The noise that is made, which is minimal apparently heard by the deer as I have slid them open testing what I could get away with while deer are within 5 yards and the wind is basically calm. I think the noise heard is louder in the blind than what is projected outside of it. If you'd like I could take pics of one of the set ups if the interested and the description don't do it for you.

If you have some U channel used for holding lattice in place left over from a project 1/4" plexi rides very well in the groove and is very quiet.

The vast majority of my blind materials are recycled from other projects or construction site throwaways. If you have any house construction going on around you stop by and inquire about getting their throwaway lumber and plywood. You can get dent and scratch shingles from Menards and I'm sure other home improvement stores also.

I buy shingles, screws, paint(but from the mistake shelf), hinges for door and plexi. I rip 2x4's into 1x'2"'s and stud the blinds out with them. My blinds are 60x60" inside at the smallest and 85x85" at the largest. The big ones are for wheelchair movement. I do use full 2x4's for headers on openings and for where the roof attaches.

 

[Berserker]

I have had no issue with an unsupported flat roof (ribbed barn siding) on the 2 blinds I have built thus far......but I also average 13" of snow a year. I can see where areas of far more snow need to take that into consideration. I appreciate all the input and have been able to pick up a few improvement ideas to help make my version 3.0 a better build. I think I will be looking at 4 x 6 or 5 x 6 at the biggest. I just don't think I need more than that.....if they get too big I may have issues with folks wanting to move in....I'm building hunting blinds not apartments!

I haven't done the math. But a carpenter told me its funny how people treat short spans. I don't know how long is to long. But it makes sense.

I got flat blinds in an area that has got 350" of snow. About 4 foot span. They also used sturdy rafters.

But it is harder to break a shorter stick, than longer stick.

Metal roof homes are built 4-6/12. An A frame deer blind for the sake of loading is misguided. If it is easier to put together fine. Shed style roof with birds mouth takes some skills. Not bird mouthing and just resting it on the header, is easy. I just did one is low snow contry where I toe nailed rafters

I enjoy building blinds and sheds, and try to learn. Not saying I know what is right. But sure not saying I know it all.

 

[j-bird]

I haven't done the math. But a carpenter told me its funny how people treat short spans. I don't know how long is to long. But it makes sense.

I got flat blinds in an area that has got 350" of snow. About 4 foot span. They also used sturdy rafters.

But it is harder to break a shorter stick, than longer stick.

Metal roof homes are built 4-6/12. An A frame deer blind for the sake of loading is misguided. If it is easier to put together fine. Shed style roof with birds mouth takes some skills. Not bird mouthing and just resting it on the header, is easy. I just did one is low snow contry where I toe nailed rafters

I enjoy building blinds and sheds, and try to learn. Not saying I know what is right. But sure not saying I know it all.

I am an engineer, so I understand loading over spans......and you are right, it's far easier breaking a long stick vs a short stick of the same diameter. I also run the ribs of the metal in the direction of the shortest span as well. I have been fine not having any pitch at all on mine.....just flat and as level as the blind gets over time. But like you said.....spans of say 6 feet..at least here will handle the snow loading that I have experienced thus far. I am sure they would NOT in areas of decent snow fall. Worse issue I get is when we fire up the heater inside and the frost melts off the exposed metal roof and it "rains" inside the blind! That is something I can live with!!!!

 

[Berserker]

I think a small pitch is good even down there, just to keep water from pooling.

I don't need to go around telling people I am an engineer. For this I'll take a carperntars experience over a PHD. Also take what I have seen with my eyes. I suspect 6 feet may be fine, but have no proof. My sheds are 8 foot. With shed style roofes. I over build, with the idea I don't want to shovel as an old man.

I do have one shed with gable roof, 8 span. One year I did not shovel, and was around 250" But the owner built with timbers.
Also need keep in mind it is not all pitch, but type of truss, rafter, or spacing using. Also with gable style roof, you boards are half the span of roof.

Like I said, I am not putting my stamp on this, but it works for me. I have had 350" of snow, without a melt one year. The old blinds may have seen 370.

 

[willy]

one other thing that I now put on all my blinds are window awnings. They stick out at 14 to 18" at least and are very beneficial in keeping the sun out of your eyes and windows as it goes byl It also makes sure no rain or snow gets in the window and such. I use old partial sheets of scrap aluminum or fiberglass sheets to make them. They will take the glare off of windows well.

 

[Jason Broom]

That's a darn good idea, Willy. You got me thinkin'!

 

[Berserker]

Eaves, to keep rain and snow off the walls, are probably better, and quicker to build. Though eaves give it a look.

 

[DrDirtNap]

Here’s one I made with awnings...they have worked well and have kept rain from collecting in the window sills.

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[willy]

Berserker, your missing the issues that the awnings solve, rain/moisture kept from sills as Drdirtnap says and keeping the sun out of the blind for the most part. Low sun angles do get in but the lack of moisture on the sills and darkness in the blind are great positives over eaves.

One would have to have some mighty big eaves to do what awnings do unless your in a 4' blind

Try it, you might like it.

 

[willy]

Here are pics of the type of awning I put on my blinds.

 

[IkemanTx]

Here is one we did for my dad’s place.

We build them modularly , so that they travel as walls stacked flat on a trailer. They go together like a puzzle when we get there. This one is a 7.5X7 archery box.

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[Brokenbear]

Well I don't know your age... but I wish when I was younger and started building shooting houses that I had put in stairs(last two are stairs) and not ladders ....kids,wives, old farts (me), resale value for my family when I check out

Second thing is ...my favorite shooting house (for grandkids) is in a big FLAT bottom and I have yet to find a window I can get away with opening without deer noticing the change in appearance ...so from old ground blinds I took out the shoot thru camo screens and stapled them inside my blind then use the zipper system to create the opening I want ...you are correct in that I have no recliners, the only thing I want from a shooting house is a wind break, a rain buster a whiff of heat and a place for young'uns and their mommas to see wildlife

I am thinking the awnings are worth a try in hiding the changes in window positions as well as the rain and sun deflection value ...good ....now when I break winter camp and come back to Missouri all sun burnt ....chomp'in at the bit to plant something I can cool my jets with the awning project

Bear

 

[buckdeer1]

You may be able to do like we do on bale blinds and put something on the windows so they look black when you aren't in blind so when you open they should still appear dark if inside is painted black.The bale blinds my windows are straw colored one side and black other.I leave black out and the deer never look at it when I have windows open now

 

[KyDeerSteward]

Anyone tried a platform with a ground blind? I’ve seen a couple with at least one that was an oops without enough room to transfer from ladder to climbing in.

If so What’s the ideal size? Balance practical size to use but considering weight to install. I’m thinking 5x7 minimum but 5x8 may be just as well except for weight?

2x4 on 12” spacing solid enough for a big guy or possibly two people? Probably go 2x6 perimeter regardless. Undecided on floor boards. Plywood, 5/4, or 2x6.

Probably no higher than 6’ for now. May consider future conversion to box blind, which would take more leg Support I’m sure (planning to start with 4x4 and elevator brackets)

 

[buckdeer1]

I am building a couple for redneck gillie blinds,I am using elevators from sportsmans guide and 2x6frame on 24inch centers and will make it 6x8 that way I can have a landing and use the 2ft for each platform
10 6ft 2x6
4 8ft 2x6
3 sheets treated plywood,3/4
8 8ft 4x4 I will also cut to 5 or 6 ft
whatever cross bracing I decide on
2 sets of elevators
I may make skids so I can move easier or will make so they can tip over on trailer.
I already have a flat bed on a hay trailer running gear that is 7x8 that I am building a portable on
Put a redneck blind chair and you can sit all day.
The redneck site has these at the cheapest price I found and they are comfortable

 

[KyDeerSteward]

thanks! I like that Redneck blind. I'm trying to utilize blinds I have, but the idea of doing acrobatics to climb in the triangle door is appealing! A buddy showed me a blind on sportsmans guide that one whole side flips up. Tempting! Will increase platform to at least 6'-6"x8 though.

Funny you've mentioned all of the ideas I have too for portable, tip over, and skid! Trailer/portable is top on my wish list after at least one platform.