yoderjac
Well-Known Member
Thanks!
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Loader Joystick Hydraulics question
- Thread starter yoderjac
- Start date
yoderjac
Well-Known Member
Now that I think we have all the ports figured out, I decided to disconnect the quick connects and trace the line. Both ends of the quick connects are color coded with either wires or cable ties. I labeled them:
LR is loader Rod, LC is loader Cylinder, BR is Bucket Rod, and BC is bucket Cylinder.
LR is loader Rod, LC is loader Cylinder, BR is Bucket Rod, and BC is bucket Cylinder.
yoderjac
Well-Known Member
I realized I screwed up with my Summit order. I had ordered the 4 elbows I need for sure and the total was just under $25 with $10 shipping. I ended up canceling the order and changing the quantity to 5 which pushed the total a few buck over $25 where free shipping kicks in. I'm not yet sure if I'll want elbows on any of the PB, P, or T ports, so having a 5th is not a bad idea even if I don't use it. It was less expensive than buying 4 of them.
This cancel and reorder won't delay my project. I had the knee surgery yesterday and it will be a couple weeks at minimum before I can work on it again.
This cancel and reorder won't delay my project. I had the knee surgery yesterday and it will be a couple weeks at minimum before I can work on it again.
Mennoniteman
Well-Known Member
I hope your knee recovery goes well
yoderjac
Well-Known Member
Thanks...Getting old ain't for the faint of heart. I may look back and say it was worth it, but that is not how I feel right now.I hope your knee recovery goes well
yoderjac
Well-Known Member
It has been one heck of a couple weeks! The knee is doing well. The worst part was getting off the Oxy, but I'm off of it now. I graduated from a walker to a cane last week. I can now walk without the cane, but I carry it in public just so folks are a little more careful around me. Most of the discomfort is in my hip and lower back. I think the leg is now longer and it has affected how I walk. Muscle has atrophied quite a bit in that leg. I had my first PT eval last week as well.
I finally felt well enough to get back to work on the project but it was too cold in the barn. Instead, I brought the new valve and components inside. I was able to get the Power Beyond sleeve mated with the correct output, but I did not have a wrench large enough to tighten it, so I just left it halfway screwed in. I'll need to swing by our farm and grab some larger wrenches.
Not much progress, but at least I'm feeling good enough to care about it enough to try!
I finally felt well enough to get back to work on the project but it was too cold in the barn. Instead, I brought the new valve and components inside. I was able to get the Power Beyond sleeve mated with the correct output, but I did not have a wrench large enough to tighten it, so I just left it halfway screwed in. I'll need to swing by our farm and grab some larger wrenches.
Not much progress, but at least I'm feeling good enough to care about it enough to try!
yoderjac
Well-Known Member
It was finally warm enough and my knee was feeling well enough to start working on this project again. It did not take long for me to run into an issue. The first thing I decided to disconnect was the power beyond fittings. Here is a picture:
I first disconnected the hose from the elbow. Next, I disconnected the elbow from what I thought was a bushing going into the valve. I could not budge the bushing. I looked at the documentation for the current valve and it is not a bushing, it is a pressure release valve (1600 PSI).
I presume I need some kind of pressure relief valve for the new valve, but I'm not sure where to find one. The port on the valve is female 7/8-14 and the port on the elbow is 9/16-18 male.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks,
Jack
I first disconnected the hose from the elbow. Next, I disconnected the elbow from what I thought was a bushing going into the valve. I could not budge the bushing. I looked at the documentation for the current valve and it is not a bushing, it is a pressure release valve (1600 PSI).
I presume I need some kind of pressure relief valve for the new valve, but I'm not sure where to find one. The port on the valve is female 7/8-14 and the port on the elbow is 9/16-18 male.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks,
Jack
yoderjac
Well-Known Member
This is not quite as straight forward as I had hoped. The quick-coupler connections to the old valve will not budge. When I looked at the diagram again I found a note that said you should use Loctite 242 on them. Next I tried to remove the pump and tank hoses. Both loosened with force, but I soon noticed they did not have swivel connectors at this end. So, I probably damaged the hose coverings if not the hoses before I learned they don't have swivel connects. I removed the valve from the bracket thinking I could twist it in the opposite direction, but that won't work with 2 hoses connected. I traced the tank hose and found the tank end does. So, on my next attempt, I'll remove the tank end and then the valve end. I'll probably replace these hoses if I see damage.
Here is a picture of the valve removed from the bracket:
On the right hand side of the valve between the sticker and the control rod, you can see the pressure relief valve on the side with the control rod. I'm not sure if I'll be able to reuse that or need to buy one.
Here is a picture of the valve removed from the bracket:
On the right hand side of the valve between the sticker and the control rod, you can see the pressure relief valve on the side with the control rod. I'm not sure if I'll be able to reuse that or need to buy one.
Jerry-B-WI
New Member
This is not quite as straight forward as I had hoped. The quick-coupler connections to the old valve will not budge. When I looked at the diagram again I found a note that said you should use Loctite 242 on them. Next I tried to remove the pump and tank hoses. Both loosened with force, but I soon noticed they did not have swivel connectors at this end. So, I probably damaged the hose coverings if not the hoses before I learned they don't have swivel connects. I removed the valve from the bracket thinking I could twist it in the opposite direction, but that won't work with 2 hoses connected. I traced the tank hose and found the tank end does. So, on my next attempt, I'll remove the tank end and then the valve end. I'll probably replace these hoses if I see damage.
Here is a picture of the valve removed from the bracket:
On the right hand side of the valve between the sticker and the control rod, you can see the pressure relief valve on the side with the control rod. I'm not sure if I'll be able to reuse that or need to buy one.
If they used Loctite 242 it's only a medium strength. You can get them loose using hand tools. But you'll have to have the valve body anchored so you can put some force on your wrench. Use a good fitting open end or a tubing wrench.
The fitting you took out of the valve is a ORB fitting. You'll need the part that looks like a bushing. It's probably sealed with 242. I'd use new o-rings on any of those ORB fittings. The nice feature of ORB fittings is you can point them in any direction needed and then tighten the jam nut to seal the o-ring. Make sure to clen those threads up using a wire brush and be careful sealing them up again. You don't need any of the sealant getting into the system and stopping a valve from functioning properly. I wouldn't put any swivels on the hoses either they're nothing more than a place to have a leak.
yoderjac
Well-Known Member
Thanks on the 242 removal. Once I have the Pump and tank fittings removed, I'll be able to put it in a vice. I just ordered a set of crows feet wrenches so I can use a breaker bar for leverage.
The part that looks like a bushing from the outside is actually a power beyond sleeve according to the documentation I found. Since I bought a new power beyond sleeve that fits the new valve from Summit, I don't think I'll need it. Instead, I'll need something that goes from the 7/8-14 female output of the new power beyond sleeve, to the elbow I removed is a 9/16-18 Male on one side, and a 3/4-16 Male O-ring on the other according the the old loader documentation. So I think I need and adapter that has a 7/8-14 male on one side and a 9/16-18 female on the other, or maybe a new elbow with a 7/8-14 male on one side and the 3/4-16 Male O-ring on the other.
The problem with not using swivels seems to me to be the fact that the hose needs to spin to install it. That means you need a swivel on at least one end of the hose. I can't remove the Pump and Tank connections from the valve without removing the other end that has a swivel connect first. For the Pump and Tank connections, after I remove the other end from the pump or tank side and then remove it from the valve side, I think I'll take those to the local NAPA that makes custom hydraulic hoses. I'll see if I can get something that connects more directly to the 7/8-14 of the valve on one side with the same connector as the existing one for the tank and pump. When I tried to remove them by letting the hoses twist, I'm sure I at least screwed up the outer covering of the hoses and likely cracked the rubber as they were old. I was trying to avoid having to remove the other ends of the hoses that have the swivel connect. While I'm at NAPA, I'll see what adapters they might have.
If I'm missing something here, feel free to set me straight.
Jerry-B-WI
New Member
Getting late tonight. I'll send some links tomorrow of the type of swivels I'd use.
yoderjac
Well-Known Member
Thanks!
Jerry-B-WI
New Member
I would use a male pipe x female JIC swivel straight fitting. If you get a swivel fitting on the hose end it will have a o-ring in it. I've seen those o-rings fail and the rest of the hose will still be good--waste of a good hose because of a 30 cent o-ring. The fitting I'm recommending has no o-rings to fail, it's a metal to metal seal. You would use your Loctite 242 on the pipe thread and no sealant on the JIC end. Here's a link to a picture of a JIC fitting.
You can see in the second picture the taper that makes the seal on the hose.
yoderjac
Well-Known Member
Does the male pipe fitting fit the 7/8-14 JIC port on the valve? I'm also wondering if this would work because I think I need elbows on everything. If you go back to the pictures on page one of this thread, you can see the come directly out of the end of the valve except for the Power beyond which is in the top of the valve with an elbow in the picture. With the new valve all the hoses come out of the side so I think they all need elbows.
yoderjac
Well-Known Member
I made a little more progress. It was hard to reach, but I was able to remove the tank hose from the tank. That end had a swivel. That allowed the free hose to rotate so I could remove the other end from the valve. Here is the tank hose connections:
Since there was only one hose left connected to the valve, I was able to remove the Pump hose from the valve. I just rotated the valve in the opposite direction. I believe this hose has the same connectors as the tank hose.
With all the hoses removed, I was able to put the old valve in a vise. When my crows foot wrenches and breaker bar come in, I'll try to remove the quick connects from the valve.
Since there was only one hose left connected to the valve, I was able to remove the Pump hose from the valve. I just rotated the valve in the opposite direction. I believe this hose has the same connectors as the tank hose.
With all the hoses removed, I was able to put the old valve in a vise. When my crows foot wrenches and breaker bar come in, I'll try to remove the quick connects from the valve.
yoderjac
Well-Known Member
It was a chore, but I got the pump hose removed from the tractor today. I found a local hydraulic shop and called them today. Seems like a small shop. I told them about my project and they said they can help. I packaged up the valves and other parts in an old tool box. I plan to take the tank and pump hoses in to get new ones. I'll have them help me select the correct fittings and adapters.
My next decision is going to be a physical one. The SMC valve was mounted on a vertical bracket on its side with most of the connection coming from the end opposite the rod control. The new Summit valve is has most of the ports on the side, not the end. I need to decide if I want to mount it like the SMC valve or remove the bracket from the post and weld it to the top of the post so the Summit valve and sit on top of the bracket. Either way, I'll need to drill at least one new hole in the bracket.
My next decision is going to be a physical one. The SMC valve was mounted on a vertical bracket on its side with most of the connection coming from the end opposite the rod control. The new Summit valve is has most of the ports on the side, not the end. I need to decide if I want to mount it like the SMC valve or remove the bracket from the post and weld it to the top of the post so the Summit valve and sit on top of the bracket. Either way, I'll need to drill at least one new hole in the bracket.
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