yoderjac
Well-Known Member
Thanks!This is a ORB, o-ring boss, fitting.
View attachment 29135
Thanks!This is a ORB, o-ring boss, fitting.
View attachment 29135
I hope your knee recovery goes wellI received the 5 elbows from Summit today. They are just going to sit around with the other components until I heal up enough to start working on a project again. At the rate I'm progressing, it will likely be at least another week of recovery before I take it on.
Thanks...Getting old ain't for the faint of heart. I may look back and say it was worth it, but that is not how I feel right now.I hope your knee recovery goes well![]()
This is not quite as straight forward as I had hoped. The quick-coupler connections to the old valve will not budge. When I looked at the diagram again I found a note that said you should use Loctite 242 on them. Next I tried to remove the pump and tank hoses. Both loosened with force, but I soon noticed they did not have swivel connectors at this end. So, I probably damaged the hose coverings if not the hoses before I learned they don't have swivel connects. I removed the valve from the bracket thinking I could twist it in the opposite direction, but that won't work with 2 hoses connected. I traced the tank hose and found the tank end does. So, on my next attempt, I'll remove the tank end and then the valve end. I'll probably replace these hoses if I see damage.
Here is a picture of the valve removed from the bracket:
![]()
On the right hand side of the valve between the sticker and the control rod, you can see the pressure relief valve on the side with the control rod. I'm not sure if I'll be able to reuse that or need to buy one.
Thanks on the 242 removal. Once I have the Pump and tank fittings removed, I'll be able to put it in a vice. I just ordered a set of crows feet wrenches so I can use a breaker bar for leverage.If they used Loctite 242 it's only a medium strength. You can get them loose using hand tools. But you'll have to have the valve body anchored so you can put some force on your wrench. Use a good fitting open end or a tubing wrench.
The fitting you took out of the valve is a ORB fitting. You'll need the part that looks like a bushing. It's probably sealed with 242. I'd use new o-rings on any of those ORB fittings. The nice feature of ORB fittings is you can point them in any direction needed and then tighten the jam nut to seal the o-ring. Make sure to clen those threads up using a wire brush and be careful sealing them up again. You don't need any of the sealant getting into the system and stopping a valve from functioning properly. I wouldn't put any swivels on the hoses either they're nothing more than a place to have a leak.
Getting late tonight. I'll send some links tomorrow of the type of swivels I'd use.Thanks on the 242 removal. Once I have the Pump and tank fittings removed, I'll be able to put it in a vice. I just ordered a set of crows feet wrenches so I can use a breaker bar for leverage.
The part that looks like a bushing from the outside is actually a power beyond sleeve according to the documentation I found. Since I bought a new power beyond sleeve that fits the new valve from Summit, I don't think I'll need it. Instead, I'll need something that goes from the 7/8-14 female output of the new power beyond sleeve, to the elbow I removed is a 9/16-18 Male on one side, and a 3/4-16 Male O-ring on the other according the the old loader documentation. So I think I need and adapter that has a 7/8-14 male on one side and a 9/16-18 female on the other, or maybe a new elbow with a 7/8-14 male on one side and the 3/4-16 Male O-ring on the other.
The problem with not using swivels seems to me to be the fact that the hose needs to spin to install it. That means you need a swivel on at least one end of the hose. I can't remove the Pump and Tank connections from the valve without removing the other end that has a swivel connect first. For the Pump and Tank connections, after I remove the other end from the pump or tank side and then remove it from the valve side, I think I'll take those to the local NAPA that makes custom hydraulic hoses. I'll see if I can get something that connects more directly to the 7/8-14 of the valve on one side with the same connector as the existing one for the tank and pump. When I tried to remove them by letting the hoses twist, I'm sure I at least screwed up the outer covering of the hoses and likely cracked the rubber as they were old. I was trying to avoid having to remove the other ends of the hoses that have the swivel connect. While I'm at NAPA, I'll see what adapters they might have.
If I'm missing something here, feel free to set me straight.
Thanks!Getting late tonight. I'll send some links tomorrow of the type of swivels I'd use.
I would use a male pipe x female JIC swivel straight fitting. If you get a swivel fitting on the hose end it will have a o-ring in it. I've seen those o-rings fail and the rest of the hose will still be good--waste of a good hose because of a 30 cent o-ring. The fitting I'm recommending has no o-rings to fail, it's a metal to metal seal. You would use your Loctite 242 on the pipe thread and no sealant on the JIC end. Here's a link to a picture of a JIC fitting.Thanks!
Does the male pipe fitting fit the 7/8-14 JIC port on the valve? I'm also wondering if this would work because I think I need elbows on everything. If you go back to the pictures on page one of this thread, you can see the come directly out of the end of the valve except for the Power beyond which is in the top of the valve with an elbow in the picture. With the new valve all the hoses come out of the side so I think they all need elbows.I would use a male pipe x female JIC swivel straight fitting. If you get a swivel fitting on the hose end it will have a o-ring in it. I've seen those o-rings fail and the rest of the hose will still be good--waste of a good hose because of a 30 cent o-ring. The fitting I'm recommending has no o-rings to fail, it's a metal to metal seal. You would use your Loctite 242 on the pipe thread and no sealant on the JIC end. Here's a link to a picture of a JIC fitting.
View attachment 29339 View attachment 29340
You can see in the second picture the taper that makes the seal on the hose.