Shooting house tips, tricks and other ideas

If you think a 4' blind is perfect, you probably aren't a bowhunter...
Now I crossbow hunt. 4 feet deep, works for me. When I bow hunted, I was not in box blinds. But I am probably not going to agree eigher way. Get to big you can't reach windows, or see easly from chair. That part is the same no matter the weapon.
 
It may be easy to build A frame. But just want to correct you, about snow loading. You are wrong. I know from experience. ,Blinds ares not houses.

Need to stop you from telling people about snow load.

Ever see a A frame woodshed or garden shed?

In your defense lots of people don't understand it. Granted never seen A frame deer blind. But I don't hunt with trolls downstate.
 
Kwood,what did you do on roof?Did you make any plans for the oct blind.It doesnt look like some of these are anchored.Even if 6ft off the ground they will blow over.Always use either a cable secured in bottom center like a redneck blind or set poles in concrete.I set a1 pole on the north and 1 on the south side of my blinds straight up and down tight against the base.This keeps the blind from rocking so it won't tip
 
I ran cable, not tensioned on my tower. Still no tention on it. Mine is very heavy, and has stairs. Windy days not moving. I am concerned about something failing. So slack cable will slow it down.


Instead of running to ground, I ran to another tree up high. This will limit fall in more directions, then just a ground anchor, which is limited
 
Thank you for taking the time to write that up. I'm going to build one for my next blind, as it looks like it will handle the high winds here very well, while still being light.
 
We used tin which was wrapped around our modular roof and has very small pitch in center. This pic was before we anchored it down with 4, 4’ eye bolt type anchor rods and big ratchet straps.


Sent from my iPhone using Deer Hunter Forum
 
956998805d86e1084dcb5ecda12b5f1a.jpg
031076f8079efc74bf363c46f974d556.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Deer Hunter Forum
 
It may be easy to build A frame. But just want to correct you, about snow loading. You are wrong. I know from experience. ,Blinds ares not houses.

Need to stop you from telling people about snow load.

Ever see a A frame woodshed or garden shed?

In your defense lots of people don't understand it. Granted never seen A frame deer blind. But I don't hunt with trolls downstate.

I'm not sure why you're trying to put words in my mouth, or why you are apparently calling me a troll from downstate. You may not realize it, but you are one of the very few contributors on this forum who is rude and condescending in virtually every one of your posts. If that's how you prefer to "communicate", you'll fit right in on the Michigan Sportsmans Forum.

This particular blind is set up to face to the west which means one of the walls is facing north. It sets up on a little knoll, with nothing between it and the 160 acre potato field on the neighboring property. This is in eastern Antrim County (far north of the people you label "trolls") where the temps are colder and the snows deeper than the areas closer to the big lake. To your point, when the snows fall heavy, the right side of this blind does indeed load up with snow, but the design of an A-frame is inherently strong, with the weight of the snow transferring to the foundation. Since it's a metal roof, any warming of temps causes the snow to slide off, but it does pile up on the side of the blind, since it's not elevated. There is usually a time during each winter when snow is piled up to the peak of the roof on that blind. And yet, there it is, 7 years later, none the worse for wear.

You ask if I've ever seen an A-frame wood or garden shed? No, of course not...they are not an efficient design for STORAGE. So, answer me this: If an A-frame isn't a suitable design for the snow loading you keep talking about...why are so many of the homes built in alpine areas, or anywhere with large snowfall amounts, of an A-frame design?

Please don't presume there are things people don't understand, particularly in an online forum. You have no idea who you are conversing with or what their educational background is. Just be polite and treat everyone with respect. At least until they have proven they don't deserve it. :)

Gravel Road: Yes, the A-frame design is unquestionably the most wind-stable blind you can build. As I mentioned above, there is nothing but open field to the north of this blind and the wind absolutely howls, at times. It's not going anywhere, obviously, and nothing short of a tornado could move it. The property it's on is very sandy, so we dug down in a little bit and leveled it out. One potential drawback is there is always a field mouse with a tunnel under the blind. I just call it another "habitat improvement"! :D
 
I will say this - some of you seem to have far more superior carpentry skills than I do. I will be using reclaimed wood from some equipment crates so will make do with what I have. I also build mine with the intent of having 2 people in them. They may not be "spacious" but they get the job done for gun hunting. I appreciate all the ideas. I will also agree with shelves and hooks and the like to place all your gear. All of mine have carpet on the floor as well - I just use scraps when I can get them. Thus far I have not had to worry about snow loading, but that obviously needs to be considered in certain areas as well, in regards to a flat or even sloped roof and it having the proper support. I like actual windows as well. It just helps to knock the wind down.....sometimes the temps are not bad, but a steady wind can make it feel a lot colder than it really is as well. I have had steps and ladders and I have had both rot. That was why I considered the "trap-door" set-up as in an effort to protect the climbing means.....but I see how that creates issues with space inside the blind. My blinds will be located for gun hunting, but I may add the means to bow hunt.....not sure just yet. I tend to bow hunt different areas (more trails and funnels) than where I gun hunt (more open areas overlooking wood lots, fields or foodplots). I also tend to NOT bow hunt late in the year as it's like 2 or 3 weeks in late december after our general firearms and muzzleloader season so I am not sure I really need that functionality.
 
I'm not sure why you're trying to put words in my mouth, or why you are apparently calling me a troll from downstate. You may not realize it, but you are one of the very few contributors on this forum who is rude and condescending in virtually every one of your posts. If that's how you prefer to "communicate", you'll fit right in on the Michigan Sportsmans Forum.

This particular blind is set up to face to the west which means one of the walls is facing north. It sets up on a little knoll, with nothing between it and the 160 acre potato field on the neighboring property. This is in eastern Antrim County (far north of the people you label "trolls") where the temps are colder and the snows deeper than the areas closer to the big lake. To your point, when the snows fall heavy, the right side of this blind does indeed load up with snow, but the design of an A-frame is inherently strong, with the weight of the snow transferring to the foundation. Since it's a metal roof, any warming of temps causes the snow to slide off, but it does pile up on the side of the blind, since it's not elevated. There is usually a time during each winter when snow is piled up to the peak of the roof on that blind. And yet, there it is, 7 years later, none the worse for wear.

You ask if I've ever seen an A-frame wood or garden shed? No, of course not...they are not an efficient design for STORAGE. So, answer me this: If an A-frame isn't a suitable design for the snow loading you keep talking about...why are so many of the homes built in alpine areas, or anywhere with large snowfall amounts, of an A-frame design?

Please don't presume there are things people don't understand, particularly in an online forum. You have no idea who you are conversing with or what their educational background is. Just be polite and treat everyone with respect. At least until they have proven they don't deserve it. :)

Gravel Road: Yes, the A-frame design is unquestionably the most wind-stable blind you can build. As I mentioned above, there is nothing but open field to the north of this blind and the wind absolutely howls, at times. It's not going anywhere, obviously, and nothing short of a tornado could move it. The property it's on is very sandy, so we dug down in a little bit and leveled it out. One potential drawback is there is always a field mouse with a tunnel under the blind. I just call it another "habitat improvement"! :D

I just put him on "Ignore" option on the profile page. Now, if people don't quote him it'll be bliss.
 
I will say this - some of you seem to have far more superior carpentry skills than I do. I will be using reclaimed wood from some equipment crates so will make do with what I have. I also build mine with the intent of having 2 people in them. They may not be "spacious" but they get the job done for gun hunting. I appreciate all the ideas. I will also agree with shelves and hooks and the like to place all your gear. All of mine have carpet on the floor as well - I just use scraps when I can get them. Thus far I have not had to worry about snow loading, but that obviously needs to be considered in certain areas as well, in regards to a flat or even sloped roof and it having the proper support. I like actual windows as well. It just helps to knock the wind down.....sometimes the temps are not bad, but a steady wind can make it feel a lot colder than it really is as well. I have had steps and ladders and I have had both rot. That was why I considered the "trap-door" set-up as in an effort to protect the climbing means.....but I see how that creates issues with space inside the blind. My blinds will be located for gun hunting, but I may add the means to bow hunt.....not sure just yet. I tend to bow hunt different areas (more trails and funnels) than where I gun hunt (more open areas overlooking wood lots, fields or foodplots). I also tend to NOT bow hunt late in the year as it's like 2 or 3 weeks in late december after our general firearms and muzzleloader season so I am not sure I really need that functionality.

J-bird, I would still like to come out and tour your property. I'd be glad to help you build a new blind, as well. I enjoy projects like that almost as much as I like hunting. :)
 
J-bird, I would still like to come out and tour your property. I'd be glad to help you build a new blind, as well. I enjoy projects like that almost as much as I like hunting. :)
Broom - I appreciate the offer for the blind build....that will be a summer project and I should have the help I need for that, but if I have issues with manpower I'll keep you in mind. As for a visit - unless you forgot - we tried that once.....the weather was terrible with an ice storm last year and our schedules just never lined up after that. You are still welcome any time......however, if you know how to graft fruit trees I may try to work some deal about a grafting lesson or two in trade for a property visit! I don't have much to offer in the way of a property visit, but if you want to come take a look....I'll show you what I do have!
 
Now I crossbow hunt. 4 feet deep, works for me. When I bow hunted, I was not in box blinds. But I am probably not going to agree eigher way. Get to big you can't reach windows, or see easly from chair. That part is the same no matter the weapon.

Apparently the little guy can't see out of a blind made for full size adults...
 
Apparently the little guy can't see out of a blind made for full size adults...
Huh??? Where did you get that from?

I think 4 feet is a good depth. I have one 5 feet which is good too. But at to some point you can't reach the window to open it.

Unless you are some fat guy, not sure why you need bigger than 4x5 or 5x5. Less movig around. I hunt up close. Hunting farm fields, I guess it doesn't matter if you get up and walk to window.

I guess we need to say if you are building for obese folks. XXL blinds. No steps.
 
Last edited:
I'm not sure why you're trying to put words in my mouth, or why you are apparently calling me a troll from downstate. You may not realize it, but you are one of the very few contributors on this forum who is rude and condescending in virtually every one of your posts. If that's how you prefer to "communicate", you'll fit right in on the Michigan Sportsmans Forum.

:D
Anyone from below the bridge is troll. No matter how close to the bridge you are.

I don't think Michigan Sportsman forum. To many up tight troll.

I am just trying to tell you are wrong about your assumption of snow loading. Correcting you. If you don't want to learn. Not my problem.

So in order to not be rude, I should continue letting tell things that are not true? How does that help anyone?
 
I just put him on "Ignore" option on the profile page. Now, if people don't quote him it'll be bliss.
Ignore lists are for chicks, and millenials that need a safe place. How do you survive in the real world?

What, I am not fat enough to need a bigger blind or, sharing what I know about snow from the south shore of Lake Superior, and that bothers you?

Is there an acceptable size blind or comment I can have?
 
This is the first one I built. Around 4/12. I got blinds from 90s, that are nearly flat.

Short spans, not as critical/
 
Also while giving my opinion. More over hang on roofs the better, to keep rain off wood and windows. What is correct, don't know. But you don't see a house with a few inches.
 
I ended up tieing skis together with 2 10' 2x4s in a X. This one is in backyard. Built in barn and dragged out.

One thing different that I like, is the soffits. The rear one is a good place for storage.

One thing I did, that made it adjustable in field is run 2x4s between corners above and below window. I then screwed pieces of plywood to the ends.. Gave me the ability to adjust window height in field. Guy could do a few of them top and bottom of window. Removing or adding. Added some to the bottom. Then took cordless sawzall and raised window, adding the spacers.
End up closing up windows, don't so much visibility when hunting close.

Not knowing angle you will be looking at, can make window heigh tough.
 

Attachments

  • 20170928_185154.jpg
    20170928_185154.jpg
    120 KB · Views: 0
Sorry about your thread, J-Bird. I've never added someone to my ignore list...before today.

The offer stands to come help build a blind or two. That's my idea of a fun way to spend the day. :)
 
Back
Top