Rambling Plots

I’d love to go 3 years without spray, but the johnson grass just won’t allow that. Maybe after a few more years of fall and spring cereals, we can get the summer Johnson grass issues under control w/o spray.
 
I’d love to go 3 years without spray, but the johnson grass just won’t allow that. Maybe after a few more years of fall and spring cereals, we can get the summer Johnson grass issues under control w/o spray.
Years ago, I had an infestation of Johnson grass thanks to a wasted time of planting EW, another story. But I solved the problem with very frequent tight mowing and heavy application of WR each fall allowing it to remain until following fall. I never once sprayed it to kill. WR is much better at weed control than WW even tho I love the latter and use it just as much. Of course massaging unwanted weeds and grasses in part requires amending the soil tilth and ph to a level that those things don't want to live there in abundance.
 
One comment about clovers, especially WC. That stuff is in to S& M. It loves to be abused. Don't be afraid to mow it tight , or drive over it, or just cuss it, while maintaining weed control. WC will grow just to prove you can't kill it. Be aggressive with it to control unwanted crap until mid-late June when heat and drought begins. Then back off until fall and cool temps. Then Fert and lime if needed, overseed with grains and brassica to soak up excess N. And go hunt.
Your yard grows clover with no problem doesn't it? Infected with a carpet of grass isn't it? You mow it weekly don't you? Then why do we think clovers in our plots have to be babied like infants? And for the love... never, ever, buy into the myth that clover plots need to be redone every 4-7 years. Hog wash.
 
One comment about clovers, especially WC. That stuff is in to S& M. It loves to be abused. Don't be afraid to mow it tight , or drive over it, or just cuss it, while maintaining weed control. WC will grow just to prove you can't kill it. Be aggressive with it to control unwanted crap until mid-late June when heat and drought begins. Then back off until fall and cool temps. Then Fert and lime if needed, overseed with grains and brassica to soak up excess N. And go hunt.
Your yard grows clover with no problem doesn't it? Infected with a carpet of grass isn't it? You mow it weekly don't you? Then why do we think clovers in our plots have to be babied like infants? And for the love... never, ever, buy into the myth that clover plots need to be redone every 4-7 years. Hog wash.

Dogger,please......

Never let knowledge or experience trump habitat myth and folklore.......

bill
 
Dogger,please......

Never let knowledge or experience trump habitat myth and folklore.......

bill

Lol. Thank goodness sites like this don’t deal in fake news/ follow the money. I’ve learned a chunk from posters showing their experience , good or bad.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
How much of each seed are you broadcasting into existing clover plots?

It varies on time of year, soil conditions , thatch , random testing , if mixing or spreading single seed, existing reseeding estimates etc. But…on average
Brassica 2-6#/ac
RC 8-10#
WC 4-6#
WW / WR 25-100#. Almost always no more than 50 for me unless I have an infestation that I’m trying to suppress, then I go max.

I try to get brassica planted late July then overseed with clovers and grains early Sept - late Oct.
I sometimes add 19-19-19 fert and Urea. Sometimes I’ll add Urea again in 30 days. Brassica are N junkies.
Some years I spray. Some not. I’m stingy but plots prob better if sprayed. Usually 3-10 days before planting but I have done at same time.
Now you should be completely confused!! As I am most times. Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Mowed last years mix in preparation of this years rotational planting in 2 plots. My other plots remain mainly clover, alfalfa , chicory w overseeding mixes each fall.
These plots have seen no tillage for 6-7 years. You can see the mature WW. Beneath is a plenty of RC and WC. I’ve not planted WC on them for 8 years even with a gly kill couple times. It is resilient.
I mow about a foot high to keep thatch to minimum. I see more problems w too heavy a thatch than too little.
Now notice this plot when I show its clover. The adjacent plot just yards away on this dry south facing ridgetop is really suppressed. Yet beneath this thicket of WW , the clovers are protected from heat of the sun, the drying affect of sun and wind, and has mined nutrients the clover needs.
Now you tell me why you need to mow to “release” the clover. Don’t believe all the self proclaimed authorities w a Dr before their name. Not always right. But I am!!! Trust me
Weeds? Some yes , mainly goldenrod. One thistle plant.
Spray ? Not if you don’t want. Rotate? Not needed. But you can throw in a mix of brassica and grains perhaps. Both work.
Always think with your management , how can I provide food and improve soil, and conserve or filter water and protect from heat and cold. Nature does it. And last I checked she doesn’t own a traditional No till planter or spreader or mower. Watch her. Listen. Observe. Get your knees and hands dirty w face to the ground. She loves to teach.

a419274d9590192d6dffa0f4615b4ca8.jpg



871bb70a900ed166906a97a4680dcfac.jpg



9160039eff9b240d8b14c304734dcf4d.jpg



e2f1eb41f0c38568bdb0415edcae883d.jpg



Remember that bottom field I showed few posts ago? Was the clover smothered in it? Did the grasses make a difference ? Not by my standards nor the deer and turkey.

7b5c91c9267e8c2c33cebe4cd7f6df23.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top