Low elevation blind

[FTG-05]

What about using these things to prevent blowovers?

 

[Doe Shooter]

What about using these things to prevent blowovers?

IMO ,no. I like to use near by trees and rope if I feel the box is vulnerable to wind. Screw in earth anchors if nothing is around to tie to. I tend like to tuck boxes into an edge or in the woods rather than on a hill top out in the open.

 

[Mennoniteman]

What about using these things to prevent blowovers?

That's a good connector to attach the leg to the stand. But you still need to attach the leg to the ground by digging into the ground, of staking to prevent blowovers. Or use rope or cables like doe shooter said.

 

[buckdeer1]

I used to set in concrete but what I started doing was setting 1 post on the south and 1 on the north that went up a couple feet on side of blind.I set these 2 in the concrete but you can bolt on top of post so you can remove and drag blind out and move.Since doing this I havent had one tip over.Elevator brackets stable them some and I use them just don't try to tip one up with them without some good bracing.Cheapest place I have found on them is sportsmans guide

 

[buckdeer1]

Just saw today menards had a 4x6 poly shed for 266.00,mat have to check that out

 

[Mennoniteman]

Just saw today menards had a 4x6 poly shed for 266.00,mat have to check that out

What type of windows would you put in it?

 

[buckdeer1]

Depends on archery or gun,for you guys up north polyblind is also a fairly good option.Windows and doors are purchased separately

 

[Steve Daniel]

I'm working on building a box blind and have permission from landowner to place it on the property. All will be done with hand tools. I'm considering elevating 4-6 feet so I can gain a little height but is the highest I could probably go without a tractor. Is it worth it just for a few feet? How far should posts be buried with just 4 feet elevation? I'm trying to place it where there is some natural elevation as well and hope to have vertical corner windows for bow. Thanks in advance for advice.

A blind I try to hunt at least once a season is near the head of a holler. Deer trails come off of three ridges.

In a brushy spot I brought in three wooden pallets painted OD green and dull brown splotches... I wired them together to form a big slightly open 'U' I staked the thing in place and cut brush and threaded thru the pallets. I sit inside. I can see thru the cracks. This blind doesn't help with scent, but you disappear when you sit in the U. It's modeled after a couple Duck Blinds I saw beside a swamp. Cost Zero... Time to build in offseason was about a half hour to thread vines and brush into the pallet. The brush is of different lengths, but most are about a foot or two taller than the pallets. Slight movements are difficult to see, even if you are looking for them in the blind. Most of the guys in our club don't know this stand is there, but several have hunted the area.

 

[Doe Shooter]

All of my blinds are on scaffold I got free when contractors left them behind on jobs.They were told to come get them and did not. Anyway scaffold puts the floor at 5 feet. I build with plywood and make them as tight as possible for scent control. Made the first one in 1995 and have taken too many deer to count. So ,yes the little elevation is helpful. And hiding your movement is huge.Color does not matter.Brushing it in does not matter. Setting it up 2-3 months before the season does matter.Making it easy to assemble and dis-assemble if you want to move it(which you might) is a good idea.I build them lite , typically with 1/2" ply and 2X2's.
Good luck.