wbpdeer
Well-Known Member
I took a photo of my best two trays of DCO. They have healthy leaves. They just grow slowly compared to other trees / seedlings.
Greenhouse Project
- Thread starter wbpdeer
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I took a photo of my best two trays of DCO. They have healthy leaves. They just grow slowly compared to other trees / seedlings.
Turkey Creek
Well-Known Member
Those DCOs have pretty good size for being container grown. I always found it difficult to get that 2nd flush of growth when growing them in containers. Correct they do use a water soluable fertilizer. Most have a catch pan underneath the bed, you could probably slope a piece of heavy plastic to a lower catch basin. Then the water is recirculated as needed that way you are not wasting fertilizer. Lots of water soluble fertilizers on the market dont have a particular one to recommend. Depends on the size of the material you are trying to grow in terms of the depth of the bed. When I was using the one I built it was roughly 12" deep and was more than adequate. I grew some hardwood cutting without a mist system such as Elderberry and apple root stock. I also had a timer for a mist system that I experimented with some softwood cuttings. We have very hard water though and I think it was detrimental to the softwood cuttings, and decided it wasnt worth the effort to continue experimenting with the mist system.
wbpdeer
Well-Known Member
Turkey Creek,
Thanks for the feedback. I am pleased with my DCO for year one. I believe I can do better next cycle.
To summarize on the sand box setup - 12 inches deep, recollection system, normal water soluble fertilizer, can be misting system - may not be a misting system. NOTE: I do well with timers - I stay on schedule - I favor a misting system.
Every source I hear brags up the root system you get out of a sand bed.
I appreciate you sharing your wisdom and experience with me.
Thanks for the feedback. I am pleased with my DCO for year one. I believe I can do better next cycle.
To summarize on the sand box setup - 12 inches deep, recollection system, normal water soluble fertilizer, can be misting system - may not be a misting system. NOTE: I do well with timers - I stay on schedule - I favor a misting system.
Every source I hear brags up the root system you get out of a sand bed.
I appreciate you sharing your wisdom and experience with me.
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Turkey Creek
Well-Known Member
With softwood cuttings taken during the growing season I think you are going to need some kind of misting system to keep the leaves from drying out and dying.
wbpdeer
Well-Known Member
Greenhouse is located over an old barn site. The original barn was built in the 1950s and I tore it down in the late 1990s due to disrepair.
The location is determined by sunlight without trees creating shade spots.
So how did the site look in the beginning?
I had to cut strips in the concrete to be able to locate the greenhouse baseboards. I used a 14 inch concrete saw with a diamond blade.
What a dust storm that created.
With that done we had to bring in some equipment to move the sections of concrete out of the way.
The location is determined by sunlight without trees creating shade spots.
So how did the site look in the beginning?
I had to cut strips in the concrete to be able to locate the greenhouse baseboards. I used a 14 inch concrete saw with a diamond blade.
What a dust storm that created.
With that done we had to bring in some equipment to move the sections of concrete out of the way.
wbpdeer
Well-Known Member
The next step was to get the baseboards set. The width is 16 feet and the length is 26 feet.
We set some posts in concrete because they would support a 2 by 4 hip board that will be 24 inches above the top of the baseboard.
In the background of the photo above you can see where the sections of removed concrete were piled up.
We had a water problem to solve - we had 9 inches of rain in a 11 hour period. I had water everywhere. I raise the floor grade of the greenhouse 2 inches higher as a result of this.
I had chestnut trees in my yard under running water for over a day. It was bizarre.
I have lived in this home since 1980 and we have never had this much surface water. My chestnut trees survived it.
We set some posts in concrete because they would support a 2 by 4 hip board that will be 24 inches above the top of the baseboard.
In the background of the photo above you can see where the sections of removed concrete were piled up.
We had a water problem to solve - we had 9 inches of rain in a 11 hour period. I had water everywhere. I raise the floor grade of the greenhouse 2 inches higher as a result of this.
I had chestnut trees in my yard under running water for over a day. It was bizarre.
I have lived in this home since 1980 and we have never had this much surface water. My chestnut trees survived it.
wbpdeer
Well-Known Member
More photos of foundation phase and surface water issues.
The side by side photo below shows surface water created by one of the bigger rains. The right side of the photo shows the difference after we move concrete chunks in with dirt on top of it. This reduced the problem very well.
The photo below shows three sides of the baseboard installed. The fourth side (south side) is left open in order to get the gravel into the pad with a tractor. I did a good job of spraying inside the greenhouse pad to kill an grass - I sprayed on three different days until I had a total kill. In the photo I had already sprayed twice as you see some green patches.
The side by side photo below shows surface water created by one of the bigger rains. The right side of the photo shows the difference after we move concrete chunks in with dirt on top of it. This reduced the problem very well.
The photo below shows three sides of the baseboard installed. The fourth side (south side) is left open in order to get the gravel into the pad with a tractor. I did a good job of spraying inside the greenhouse pad to kill an grass - I sprayed on three different days until I had a total kill. In the photo I had already sprayed twice as you see some green patches.
wbpdeer
Well-Known Member
This greenhouse has five pressure treated four by four post that are cemented in the ground and extend all the way to the top of the greenhouse. Two of these are the columns for the front door, two for the back door and one for the center support post. Most posts are at least 19-20 inches deep.
I had to removed a square of concrete from the center of the old barn's cement floor. This proved to be a very challenging job - with much chisel work. The photo below shows part of this prep with the hammer and chisel. About 75% finished.
This photo shows the four posts already cemented into the ground for the doors. My front door is wide enough I will be able to get my four wheeler into the greenhouse. The back door is not that wide. The center post is leaning in the hole but has not been set in this photo.
Here we show the center support post being set. While the concrete sets up - it was braced in two directions.
A majority of this greenhouse project has been a one man job. This saved me $$ - always a good thing.
I had to removed a square of concrete from the center of the old barn's cement floor. This proved to be a very challenging job - with much chisel work. The photo below shows part of this prep with the hammer and chisel. About 75% finished.
This photo shows the four posts already cemented into the ground for the doors. My front door is wide enough I will be able to get my four wheeler into the greenhouse. The back door is not that wide. The center post is leaning in the hole but has not been set in this photo.
Here we show the center support post being set. While the concrete sets up - it was braced in two directions.
A majority of this greenhouse project has been a one man job. This saved me $$ - always a good thing.
wbpdeer
Well-Known Member
We didn't have water or electricity available to the greenhouse so we had to solve that problem. This required renting a trencher and hiring an electrician. The photos that follow show this part of the construction process. The first photo shows the path of the trench very well along with the stub in of water and electrical.
Our race way for the electrical wire was longer than our fish tape. We had to create a small plastic bag and use a leaf blower to get a string down the raceway and then pull a rope long enough to pull our wire. Cost me about 2 hours in production but a long fish tape purchase was avoided.
The photo below shows the string and bag used to solve this problem.
Our race way for the electrical wire was longer than our fish tape. We had to create a small plastic bag and use a leaf blower to get a string down the raceway and then pull a rope long enough to pull our wire. Cost me about 2 hours in production but a long fish tape purchase was avoided.
The photo below shows the string and bag used to solve this problem.
Wow Wayne, what a great tutorial on how to build a greenhouse! It's amazing how far you have come from my primitive attempts.
Back in 2008 I received Allegheny Chinkapin seed from a member, and direct seeded 100s of them, with zero success. I believed that deer and rodents ate every last nut I put in the ground, but I also planted some in Styrofoam coffee cups that I set on a Southern exposed basement windowsill, and managed to grow a few. Eventually I graduated to peat pots.
Back in 2008 I received Allegheny Chinkapin seed from a member, and direct seeded 100s of them, with zero success. I believed that deer and rodents ate every last nut I put in the ground, but I also planted some in Styrofoam coffee cups that I set on a Southern exposed basement windowsill, and managed to grow a few. Eventually I graduated to peat pots.
Tenured Student
Active Member
Your greenhouse is coming along nicely. I really enjoyed your updates from the other forum.
wbpdeer
Well-Known Member
Hoops are placed over black iron pipe that is driven into the ground approximately 18 inches. Each black iron pipe has a hole drilled in it to allow a screw to attach the black iron pipe to the baseboard about 8 inches below the top end of the pipe. Hoops are located at 0, 3, 7, 11, 15, 19, 23 & 26 feet started from the front wall to the back wall.
The photo below shows a black iron pipe without a hoop (See #1) and a black iron pipe with a section of Electrical PVC over the Pipe (See #2) to establish how tight the screw set needs to be. This photo is for illustration of the process.
In the photo above you will see a galvanized pipe stake used to keep the baseboard staked down - it is the right of the red #1. These were easy to install and very effective.
The photo below shows a test hoop I erected early on to establish the height of my greenhouse. After it was measured it was removed. The purpose of this measurement was to allow the greenhouse supply company to establish the exhaust fan size appropriate for my house.
A word about hoops - these are 1 1/4 inch electrical PVC Gray (Indoor & Outdoor Use) ten feet long sections. I glued mine together and their overall length is 27' 8". I am a 200 pound man of reasonable strength. When you stand that electrical PVC 27+ feet pipe in the air and attempt to set it by yourself get ready to bounce around. The energy and flex tossed me all over that pad. I got angry and determined and hard-headed. After four unsuccessful attempts - I realized it was a two person job. It did lift me feet off the ground.
Let us jump ahead on the hoops - how would it look with all 8 hoops in place? Here you go without the ridge plate installed.
The photo below shows a black iron pipe without a hoop (See #1) and a black iron pipe with a section of Electrical PVC over the Pipe (See #2) to establish how tight the screw set needs to be. This photo is for illustration of the process.
In the photo above you will see a galvanized pipe stake used to keep the baseboard staked down - it is the right of the red #1. These were easy to install and very effective.
The photo below shows a test hoop I erected early on to establish the height of my greenhouse. After it was measured it was removed. The purpose of this measurement was to allow the greenhouse supply company to establish the exhaust fan size appropriate for my house.
A word about hoops - these are 1 1/4 inch electrical PVC Gray (Indoor & Outdoor Use) ten feet long sections. I glued mine together and their overall length is 27' 8". I am a 200 pound man of reasonable strength. When you stand that electrical PVC 27+ feet pipe in the air and attempt to set it by yourself get ready to bounce around. The energy and flex tossed me all over that pad. I got angry and determined and hard-headed. After four unsuccessful attempts - I realized it was a two person job. It did lift me feet off the ground.
Let us jump ahead on the hoops - how would it look with all 8 hoops in place? Here you go without the ridge plate installed.
wbpdeer
Well-Known Member
This thread does not follow the order that task were completed. For instance the grave was moved into the pad before the hoops were installed. Due to rainfall amounts we could not dump the gravel on site. It was dump in a side driveway I own. Then it was moved with a Kubota tractor a friend owns. My tractor does not have a FEL.
Dump truck delivered.
Tractor with front end loader spreading gravel.
Grading to be done - this was spread out over days because it was hot and all done by hand with a normal rake and a ball diamond rake.
The photo above shows how effective spraying the site three different times was at killing grass inside the pad.
The photo below shows my tools I graded with and the pad is graded out level.
Dump truck delivered.
Tractor with front end loader spreading gravel.
Grading to be done - this was spread out over days because it was hot and all done by hand with a normal rake and a ball diamond rake.
The photo above shows how effective spraying the site three different times was at killing grass inside the pad.
The photo below shows my tools I graded with and the pad is graded out level.
wbpdeer
Well-Known Member
The greenhouse is a square wooden frame. The width is 16 feet and the length is 26 feet. The baseboard is pressure treated 2 by 8 and make a square. I made a mistake and didn't measure the purchased lumber - creating some variations that I tolerated as opposed to tearing out.
Down the 26 feet sides with a spacing of 24 inches of open air I placed 2 by 4 down the side attached to the four by four post that were cemented into the ground. The four by four post also hold the baseboard in place. The 2 by 4 boards are called hip boards because they will allow the plastic covers to be raised up to them when ventilation is needed. So you have 2 feet by 26 down each side for approximately 104 square feet of ventilation. The end walls will have an exhaust fan in the front wall and motorized louvers in the back wall. The two stage thermostat I purchased will open the louvers 3 seconds before the relay turns on the exhaust fan.
The inside of the 2 by 4 hip board has a strap attach to it to hold the hoop in place. The outside of the 2 by 4 hip board has aluminum channel called wiggle wire to hold the shade cloth and covers in place.
Here is some wiggle wire shown where the construction process is further along.
Down the 26 feet sides with a spacing of 24 inches of open air I placed 2 by 4 down the side attached to the four by four post that were cemented into the ground. The four by four post also hold the baseboard in place. The 2 by 4 boards are called hip boards because they will allow the plastic covers to be raised up to them when ventilation is needed. So you have 2 feet by 26 down each side for approximately 104 square feet of ventilation. The end walls will have an exhaust fan in the front wall and motorized louvers in the back wall. The two stage thermostat I purchased will open the louvers 3 seconds before the relay turns on the exhaust fan.
The inside of the 2 by 4 hip board has a strap attach to it to hold the hoop in place. The outside of the 2 by 4 hip board has aluminum channel called wiggle wire to hold the shade cloth and covers in place.
Here is some wiggle wire shown where the construction process is further along.
wbpdeer
Well-Known Member
Framing the end walls is all about dealing with the arch that the hoops create. Cut plywood in an arc works best if you set the power saw so the blade barely goes thru the plywood. This greatly reduces the drag. Frame the ends first and sheet them second. Working by myself was accomplished by used clamps which allow me to use a level if plum was an issue.
Some photos of framing and bracing. I went to the local Garden Center and studied their Greenhouse Construction which helped me avoid mistakes.
The two orange circles are added to point out that I set the center of those stripes 48 inches from the edge of the doorway. It was important that the strongest section of plywood & tallest goes next to the door. Notice the angle of the two braces that go from the corner to the 4 by 4 post at the edge of the doorway. This is the front wall and if you look to the left side of it you see the electrical and water installations.
The photo below is the back wall framed.
As you look at the back wall you will see I added a gravel pad behind the greenhouse for my tractor. My tractor has been messed with on the farm and we decided to move it to town. The dump truck gravel handled this extra pad without any problems.
In this photo the hip boards are running wild and were trimmed later when the sheeting was installed on the end wall.
Some photos of framing and bracing. I went to the local Garden Center and studied their Greenhouse Construction which helped me avoid mistakes.
The two orange circles are added to point out that I set the center of those stripes 48 inches from the edge of the doorway. It was important that the strongest section of plywood & tallest goes next to the door. Notice the angle of the two braces that go from the corner to the 4 by 4 post at the edge of the doorway. This is the front wall and if you look to the left side of it you see the electrical and water installations.
The photo below is the back wall framed.
As you look at the back wall you will see I added a gravel pad behind the greenhouse for my tractor. My tractor has been messed with on the farm and we decided to move it to town. The dump truck gravel handled this extra pad without any problems.
In this photo the hip boards are running wild and were trimmed later when the sheeting was installed on the end wall.
wbpdeer
Well-Known Member
Installing the plywood on the end walls was a slow process because I did it by myself. Here we go with the front wall.
Notice that the plywood is too tall on the outside and too short next to the center of the greenhouse. I painted these sheets of 1/2 inch exterior plywood before I installed them on the frame.
Notice that the plywood is too tall on the outside and too short next to the center of the greenhouse. I painted these sheets of 1/2 inch exterior plywood before I installed them on the frame.
wbpdeer
Well-Known Member
Exhaust fan over the front door and motorize louvers over the back door. Managing hot air in a greenhouse is vital to protecting your plants.
The exhaust fan pulls air from inside the house. The louvers on the back wall will open 3 seconds before the fan turns on.
The louvers will have a motor installed that is connected to the same thermostat as the exhaust fan.
The exhaust fan pulls air from inside the house. The louvers on the back wall will open 3 seconds before the fan turns on.
The louvers will have a motor installed that is connected to the same thermostat as the exhaust fan.
