Hoosierhunting
Well-Known Member
Looking good. I built one very similar 20 years ago. It’s still going strong.
I would STRONGLY recommend overlapping the gable end (lower) sheathing on to your framing of the side wall. It’s where 80-90% of your shear strength comes from.
You could also use “L” brackets on inside, so long as you have 20-30 nails holding the walls together.
But you really need a mechanical connection between both walls other than the top plate nails.
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You’re dead right Massey. What happened was I sheathed all the walls while flat on the deck and left the overhang on the side walls to tie them into the end walls. The end walls were supposed to be 8’ wide and the side walls 16’-7”. I went to set the first side wall and realized that it was setting 4” over the trap door that I had already built into the deck. After a torrent of cussing that ended in.... “%#*! it, it ain’t a church” I trimmed the overhand off the sidewalls and set them outside the end walls. I didn’t want to spend the time or money to re-sheath the end walls. Since it’s not insulated I used old school corner leads, instead of ladders or “California corners” and nailed the hell out of them which should help some. The walls are going to be finished with cedar shakes and I run furring strips on the walls so they have an air gap. I’ll use the furring strips to tie the walls together which should help also. Now that I know you’ve got eyes on this project going to have to start taking pics from further away.
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