dilute glypho to kill weeds yet allow clover to survive??

[Shufigo]

I know that white clover is resistant to kill by 41% glypho. I want to spray my existing white clover with 41% glypho to eliminate invasive weeds and grasses. I have calibrated my rig. My question is, what ounces per gallon or volume per acre is appropriate to kill grasses and weeds but NOT kill the clover? Can it be as simple as "75% of the concentration for what you are using for general use"?

 

[Mennoniteman]

I know that white clover is resistant to kill by 41% glypho. I want to spray my existing white clover with 41% glypho to eliminate invasive weeds and grasses. I have calibrated my rig. My question is, what ounces per gallon or volume per acre is appropriate to kill grasses and weeds but NOT kill the clover? Can it be as simple as "75% of the concentration for what you are using for general use"?

This is a controversial practice with some people but I've done it successfully, 16 oz Gly per acre. However, a mixture of 10 oz. Clethodim and and 2 quarts of Butyrac 200 (2,4-DB) is more effective for a reasonable price. Note; Butyrac 200 is not reccomended to tank mix. And if you want your clover plot to look picture perfect just use 4 oz per acre of Thunder.

 

[Elkaddict]

I’ve use standard mix of gly (1+ quart to 25 gallons h2o) on whit clover a number of times and all it does is set it back. Whit clover is tough!!

 

[Mennoniteman]

I’ve use standard mix of gly (1+ quart to 25 gallons h2o) on whit clover a number of times and all it does is set it back. Whit clover is tough!!

How many acres are you spraying with the 25 gallons of water?

 

[Elkaddict]

1acre.

 

[Mennoniteman]

1acre.

So that gives a glyphosate on clover range right there, from the 16 oz. per acre that I've used, to the 32 oz. per acre that you've used with slight damage to the clover. I've used 44 oz. per acre to kill clover so that I could notill brassica for a fall plot, and that did kill it.

 

[Tap]

I know that white clover is resistant to kill by 41% glypho. I want to spray my existing white clover with 41% glypho to eliminate invasive weeds and grasses. I have calibrated my rig. My question is, what ounces per gallon or volume per acre is appropriate to kill grasses and weeds but NOT kill the clover? Can it be as simple as "75% of the concentration for what you are using for general use"?

You need to identify the weed species before anyone tells you if its okay to spray a lower concentrate of any herbicide.
Some weeds are hard for gly to control at even stronger mixes.
Spraying a light mix of gly, IMO, is not a good idea. Doing so is only inviting the development of gly resistant weeds.
What weeds and grasses exactly are you trying to control?

 

[E_308]

Timing will effect it to. This time of year with good soil moisture clover gly won't hurt it. Hit it in late summer with the same dilution and you will kill it.

 

[cutman]

You need to identify the weed species before anyone tells you if its okay to spray a lower concentrate of any herbicide.
Some weeds are hard for gly to control at even stronger mixes.
Spraying a light mix of gly, IMO, is not a good idea. Doing so is only inviting the development of gly resistant weeds.
What weeds and grasses exactly are you trying to control?

Ditto ditto ditto. Herbicide resistance is a nightmare for farmers. Read the label and use these chemicals correctly.

 

[Tap]

Timing will effect it to. This time of year with good soil moisture clover gly won't hurt it. Hit it in late summer with the same dilution and you will kill it.

Timing also applies to effectiveness at killing the target weed. You have to spray (when spraying post emergent herbicide) when the weed is at the right maturity.

If weak gly is sprayed, it will take several days, or even weeks, to find out that you didn't get the kill you hoped for. Then what? Spray again? Use a different strength or a different herbicide?? And maybe have weather issues that make spraying difficult?

Use the right herbicide for your target weed, at the right mixture, and spray at the right time.

Sometimes we get too head strong about not starting a plot over or we try to force the wrong forage. Im guilty of doing that.
Sometimes the best solution is to start over.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[bigbluetruck]

Ditto ditto ditto. Herbicide resistance is a nightmare for farmers. Read the label and use these chemicals correctly.

EXACTLY!!!! DO NOT SPRAY A REDUCED RATE OF RUP EVER!! Identify what weeds you are trying to kill and then select the correct herbicide for that application. It may be expensive because youre trying to save the clover, but in the long run its much easier and cheaper than Rup resistance.

 

[Chestnut Valley Farms]

I use 1oz per gallon 41% gly and clover handles it just fine. Does a pretty good job at killing grasses. This time of yr is ideal with plenty of moisture. This is my 3 acre destination clover field this wk.

 

[THE LLC]

I’ve use standard mix of gly (1+ quart to 25 gallons h2o) on whit clover a number of times and all it does is set it back. Whit clover is tough!!

This. I know no simpler formula than 1-qt of 41% gly concentrate to 25 gal of water. Why people want to complicate this is beyond me.

 

[THE LLC]

I use 1oz per gallon 41% gly and clover handles it just fine. Does a pretty good job at killing grasses. This time of yr is ideal with plenty of moisture. This is my 3 acre destination clover field this wk.

Yeeeaaaahhhh. LOL.

 

[Mennoniteman]

This is a good discussion with some different ideas, and I'm pretty neutral on the issue, but I suggest that anyone reading this that really wants nice clover totally forget about gly and 24,DB. My testing shows Thunder(Slay, Pursuit) outperforms anything else by a good margin, at almost the same price. $270 per gallon for genetic Thunder, at 4 oz per acre that's $8.44 an acre, still more than gly, but when you spray this stuff there's nothing left but clover, it almost seems like you would've poured fertilizer on it the way it takes off. I'm writing this for a newbie trying to figure out how to deal with weeds in clover, if you have a Glyphosate, Clethodim or Butyrac 200 system that works for you, I'm good with that as well, although my tests show certain weeds will survive those brands, such as marestail, thistles etc.

 

[Tap]

I have to say that is one of the more extensive lists of "weeds suppressed" that I can remember seeing.
But there is a difference between "suppressed" and "controlled".

Grasses and weeds controlled or suppressed by Thunder Herbicide, see label for specific information:

• Alligator weed

• Anoda, spurred

• Artichoke, Jerusalem

• Barnyardgrass

• Bedstraw, catchweed

• Beets, wild

• Bluegrass, annual

• Bristly starbur

• Buckwheat, wild

• Buffalobur

• Canarygrass, littleseed

• Carpetweed

• Chickweed, mouseear

• Cocklebur, common

• Common ragweed,

• Crabgrass, Large

• Crabgrass, Smooth

• Cress, hoary

• Crowfootgrass

• Cupgrass, robust purple

• Cupgrass, robust white

• Cupgrass, woolly

• Dandelion

• Devilsclaw

• Dock, broadleaf (seedling)

• Dock, curly (seedling)

• Dodder

• Fiddleneck

• Filaree, redstem

• Filaree, whitestem

• Fleabane, rough

• Flixweed

• Foxtail, Giant

• Foxtail, Green

• Foxtail, Yellow

• Galinsoga

• Giant ragweed

• Goosefoot, nettleleaf

• Goosegrass

• Grounsel, common

• Henbit

• Jimsonweed

• Johnsongrass, Rhizome and Seedling

• Junglerice

• Knotweed, prostrate

• Kochia (non-ALS resistant)

• Lambsquarter, common

• Lettuce, miners

• Mallow, Venice

• Mallow, little

• Marshelder

• Millet, wild proso

• Morningglory, entireleaf

• Morningglory, ivyleaf

• Morningglory, pitted

• Morningglory, smallflower

• Morningglory, tall

• Mustard sp

• Mustard, wild

• Mustards, tumble

• Nettle, burning

• Nightshade Eastern black

• Nightshade hairy

• Nightshade, black

• Nutsedge, purple

• Nutsedge, yellow

• Oats, wild

• Oxtongue, bristly

• Panicum, Fall

• Panicum, Texas

• Pennycress, field

• Pepperweed, Virginia

• Pepperweed, field

• Pigweed, redroot

• Pigweed, smooth

• Pigweed, spiny

• Poinsettia, wild

• Puncturevine

• Purslane, common

• Pusley, Florida

• Quackgrass

• Radish, wild

• Ragweed, common

• Red rice

• Rocket, London

• Rocket, Yellow

• Rockpurslane, desert

• Sage, barnyard

• Sandbur, field

• Shattercane

• Shepherd's purse

• Sida, prickly (teaweed)

• Signalgrass, broadleaf

• Smartweed swamp (seedling)

• Smartweed, Pennsylvania

• Smartweed, ladysthumb

• Sorghum, almum

• Sprangletop, Red

• Spurge, petty

• Spurge, prostrate

• Spurge, spotted

• Spurge, toothed

• Spurry, corn

• Swinecress

• Tansy mustard, pinnate

• Thistle, Canada

• Thistle, Russian

• Velvetleaf

• Volunteer Corn

• Volunteer barley

• Volunteer oats

• Volunteer wheat

• Wartcress, creeping

• Watercress

• Waterhemp, common

• Waterhemp, tall

• Wild Proso Millet

• Wild oats

• Willow weed, panicle

• Witchgrass

• Thunder Herbicide is labeled for use on the following areas but always consult the label for specific information.
  • Adzuki beans
  • Agricultural reserve program
  • Alfalfa
  • Black turtle beans
  • Chickpeas
  • Clover
  • Conservation reserve program (CRP)
  • Cover crops
  • English peas
  • Great northern beans
  • Lentils
  • Lima beans
  • Navy beans
  • Peanuts
  • Pinto beans
  • Red kidney beans
  • Snap beans
  • Southern peas
  • Soybeans
  • Succulent peas
  • White lupin
  I wonder which species fall into "cover crops"? Does this mean it Thunder can be safely sprayed on a Rye/Clover mix? And that has to be one of the more confusing labels I've seen. Why are some weeds listed as "controlled, or reduced" on one crop, but not listed as controlled or reduced on another crop. For instance...Canada Thistle is NOT listed under a clover crop, but it's listed under stuff like lima beans, but not some other beans. I wish they sold some of these chemicals in smaller sizes for test plots. I'd like to test on 1,000 sf, Before I spend ~$300.00 on a gallon.

 

[Drycreek]

This is a good discussion with some different ideas, and I'm pretty neutral on the issue, but I suggest that anyone reading this that really wants nice clover totally forget about gly and 24,DB. My testing shows Thunder(Slay, Pursuit) outperforms anything else by a good margin, at almost the same price. $270 per gallon for genetic Thunder, at 4 oz per acre that's $8.44 an acre, still more than gly, but when you spray this stuff there's nothing left but clover, it almost seems like you would've poured fertilizer on it the way it takes off. I'm writing this for a newbie trying to figure out how to deal with weeds in clover, if you have a Glyphosate, Clethodim or Butyrac 200 system that works for you, I'm good with that as well, although my tests show certain weeds will survive those brands, such as marestail, thistles etc.

MM, I wonder if it can be used on IC peas to control weeds ? If not, does anyone know what can ?

 

[Elkaddict]

This is a good discussion with some different ideas, and I'm pretty neutral on the issue, but I suggest that anyone reading this that really wants nice clover totally forget about gly and 24,DB. My testing shows Thunder(Slay, Pursuit) outperforms anything else by a good margin, at almost the same price. $270 per gallon for genetic Thunder, at 4 oz per acre that's $8.44 an acre, still more than gly, but when you spray this stuff there's nothing left but clover, it almost seems like you would've poured fertilizer on it the way it takes off. I'm writing this for a newbie trying to figure out how to deal with weeds in clover, if you have a Glyphosate, Clethodim or Butyrac 200 system that works for you, I'm good with that as well, although my tests show certain weeds will survive those brands, such as marestail, thistles etc.

I sprayed 7 acres yesterday, some with cleth, some with 1quart/25 gallon of gly, and some with Raptor. The comparison should be interesting. The benefits of the gly and raptor is it does more than just kill grasses. I spent the coin on the raptor a couple years ago to preserve the chicory I like adding to my clover plantings.

 

[Mennoniteman]

MM, I wonder if it can be used on IC peas to control weeds ? If not, does anyone know what can ?

Yes, it's labeled safe to use on cowpeas.

I have to say that is one of the more extensive lists of "weeds suppressed" that I can remember seeing.
But there is a difference between "suppressed" and "controlled".

Grasses and weeds controlled or suppressed by Thunder Herbicide, see label for specific information:

• Alligator weed

• Anoda, spurred

• Artichoke, Jerusalem

• Barnyardgrass

• Bedstraw, catchweed

• Beets, wild

• Bluegrass, annual

• Bristly starbur

• Buckwheat, wild

• Buffalobur

• Canarygrass, littleseed

• Carpetweed

• Chickweed, mouseear

• Cocklebur, common

• Common ragweed,

• Crabgrass, Large

• Crabgrass, Smooth

• Cress, hoary

• Crowfootgrass

• Cupgrass, robust purple

• Cupgrass, robust white

• Cupgrass, woolly

• Dandelion

• Devilsclaw

• Dock, broadleaf (seedling)

• Dock, curly (seedling)

• Dodder

• Fiddleneck

• Filaree, redstem

• Filaree, whitestem

• Fleabane, rough

• Flixweed

• Foxtail, Giant

• Foxtail, Green

• Foxtail, Yellow

• Galinsoga

• Giant ragweed

• Goosefoot, nettleleaf

• Goosegrass

• Grounsel, common

• Henbit

• Jimsonweed

• Johnsongrass, Rhizome and Seedling

• Junglerice

• Knotweed, prostrate

• Kochia (non-ALS resistant)

• Lambsquarter, common

• Lettuce, miners

• Mallow, Venice

• Mallow, little

• Marshelder

• Millet, wild proso

• Morningglory, entireleaf

• Morningglory, ivyleaf

• Morningglory, pitted

• Morningglory, smallflower

• Morningglory, tall

• Mustard sp

• Mustard, wild

• Mustards, tumble

• Nettle, burning

• Nightshade Eastern black

• Nightshade hairy

• Nightshade, black

• Nutsedge, purple

• Nutsedge, yellow

• Oats, wild

• Oxtongue, bristly

• Panicum, Fall

• Panicum, Texas

• Pennycress, field

• Pepperweed, Virginia

• Pepperweed, field

• Pigweed, redroot

• Pigweed, smooth

• Pigweed, spiny

• Poinsettia, wild

• Puncturevine

• Purslane, common

• Pusley, Florida

• Quackgrass

• Radish, wild

• Ragweed, common

• Red rice

• Rocket, London

• Rocket, Yellow

• Rockpurslane, desert

• Sage, barnyard

• Sandbur, field

• Shattercane

• Shepherd's purse

• Sida, prickly (teaweed)

• Signalgrass, broadleaf

• Smartweed swamp (seedling)

• Smartweed, Pennsylvania

• Smartweed, ladysthumb

• Sorghum, almum

• Sprangletop, Red

• Spurge, petty

• Spurge, prostrate

• Spurge, spotted

• Spurge, toothed

• Spurry, corn

• Swinecress

• Tansy mustard, pinnate

• Thistle, Canada

• Thistle, Russian

• Velvetleaf

• Volunteer Corn

• Volunteer barley

• Volunteer oats

• Volunteer wheat

• Wartcress, creeping

• Watercress

• Waterhemp, common

• Waterhemp, tall

• Wild Proso Millet

• Wild oats

• Willow weed, panicle

• Witchgrass

• Thunder Herbicide is labeled for use on the following areas but always consult the label for specific information.
  • Adzuki beans
  • Agricultural reserve program
  • Alfalfa
  • Black turtle beans
  • Chickpeas
  • Clover
  • Conservation reserve program (CRP)
  • Cover crops
  • English peas
  • Great northern beans
  • Lentils
  • Lima beans
  • Navy beans
  • Peanuts
  • Pinto beans
  • Red kidney beans
  • Snap beans
  • Southern peas
  • Soybeans
  • Succulent peas
  • White lupin
  I wonder which species fall into "cover crops"? Does this mean it Thunder can be safely sprayed on a Rye/Clover mix? And that has to be one of the more confusing labels I've seen. Why are some weeds listed as "controlled, or reduced" on one crop, but not listed as controlled or reduced on another crop. For instance...Canada Thistle is NOT listed under a clover crop, but it's listed under stuff like lima beans, but not some other beans. I wish they sold some of these chemicals in smaller sizes for test plots. I'd like to test on 1,000 sf, Before I spend ~$300.00 on a gallon.

Chemical labels are always written to be very vague and ambivalent about species controlled. And yes, they say controlled or suppressed, that way you can't go back to them and say that it didn't kill your weeds. But take my word for it, this stuff is potent. Of course, I like to spray when my weeds are 3-4" high, it's tough to kill weeds that, take for instance a bull thistle as big as a bushel basket, big plants are harder to kill. That's why mowing clover (high) and then spraying the smaller new growth weeds a week or two later is a such a powerful one two punch. Weed control in clover is ten times more important than lime and fertilizer IMO.

I personally think Thunder is one of the best $300 foodplot investments that I make in a year, If it didn't fit in my budget I'd cut fertilizer and other expenses first. And buying less than a gallon at a time is an absolute ripoff.
P.S.
I currently have my eye on Imox herbicide as an alternative, but haven't tested it yet.

 

[dogghr]

Thunder/slay has residual affect doesn't it? Can be a problem for someone planning overseeding or rotational planting?