Sthl chain dulls fast

[buckhunter10]

I feel like the oilmatic chain on my saw dulls so fast. I try to never hit dirt. I cut a lot of wood but I feel like after a few cuts it's dulling. I always run it with bar oil and keep chain at good tension.

Am I doing something wrong?

 

[MarkDarvin]

Who sharpens the chain?

 

[DocHolladay]

It depends on the wood that you are cutting. We used one this weekend on nothing but pine and it made it 2 days, but was dull at the last tree. We have used it on oak and other hard woods and you have to sharpen it at least once a day if not more. If you are cutting bodice, it will probably need to be sharpened every couple of trees. Buy a chainsaw file set and do it yourself. IT doesn't take as long as most people think doing it by hand and you can sharpen it in the field if you need to. I will take the file and scratch a mark on the tooth I start on so I don't have to guess when I have made it all the way around.

 

[TreeDaddy]

........one pass in dirt and its dull.......avoid at all cost

bill

 

[OkieKubota]

Cutting oak and hickory my stihl chainsaw will stay sharp for as long as I don't hit any dirt or rock...I have about 5 Rick of wood and acres of hinge cuts all on this chain with no sharpening so far this winter and it cuts through like a warm knife through butter...

 

[buckhunter10]

Thanks all.

I know how to sharpen a chain and I do it fairly quickly. I just have felt like I'm doing it more often than I'd like.

I'll sharpen her up and let her rip again soon.

 

[Weezy]

Are you using full or semi chisel?

Full chisel cuts faster but will dull quickly in dirty wood.

Semi chisel is slower but more durable.

 

[buckhunter10]

Are you using full or semi chisel?

Full chisel cuts faster but will dull quickly in dirty wood.

Semi chisel is slower but more durable.

I'm using oilmatic with the green by the double tooth. Not sure what chisel it it's to be honest.

 

[Seabee]

My Stihl does not like off brand bar oil, specifically from Big R stores. I had been using a gallon of it the last two years that I had bought in a pinch while heading out to my property one day. I even purchased a new saw last spring because I thought my other was just underpowered. Still my chain seemed very hot and wouldn't last 2 hours. Last weekend I stopped and bought a new chain(again) and Stihl brand bar oil. As soon as I poured out the new bar oil I quickly noticed its viscosity was WAY more runny then the Big R brand. I cut 6 hours straight and never even put the new chain on. I'm still doing the happy dance!

 

[j-bird]

I don;t mean to ask a stupid question here OR to offend......do the teeth have a blue or purple color from where they may have gotten hot during the sharpening process? I have seen this before - the heat alters the tempering in the steel and thus reduces the steels ability to hold a durable edge.......just a thought. I got a chain back from a shop that did this once.....I haven't been back.

Also watch your "depth dogs" - that is what we call them anyway. They and the teeth can get a build up on them that can reduce the effectiveness of your saw as well. I chip mine off with a pocket knife when I sharpen my chain on the bar.

Another thing I have done.....so everybody go ahead an laugh......turn the chain around!!!! Yep I have been in a hurry and put the chain on backwards......it doesn't cut real well that way!!!!

Also make sure your getting the proper angle when your sharpening......I have seen this more of an issue with a round file without a guide OR going in the wrong direction when using it.

I realize these may all sound like dumb things, but I am guilty of most of them. I don't know your experience level with a saw or sharpening it. I will say I tend to never be able to get the life out of a chain after it is brand new. Not entirely sure why...but that seems to be the case, I'm also pretty hard on my stuff as well.

 

[dogghr]

Yes Jbird, I have done the backwards chain also in a hurry.
I would check Buck if your chain is getting lubed properly. And bar tension. Sounds like may be over heating. Also, got to let chain do the work. I'm guilty of sometime thinking more pressure means faster cutting. Not true, it just overheats the chain.

 

[Weezy]

Have you cleaned out the bar groove and made sure oiler holes aren't clogged up?

How cold is it where your cutting? I know husqvarna has a winter bar oil that flows better in cold temps.

 

[Weezy]

IMO. If your sharpening your own chain get rid of that green anti kick back chain, only if you work safely and understand how kick backs happen. That big roller has to be a pain to hand file.

Stihl is the best chain but pricey. I've had good luck with the cheaper Carlton semi chisel chain. Probably buy 3 for the price of 1 stihl. Good to have extra laying around just in case.

 

[Mennoniteman]

I second the Carlton semi chisel chain

 

[Blizzard Ridge]

In my experience if you burn your chain up it will need to be run through a professional sharpener to get the burnt part of the chain cut down. You should feel it when running a sharpening file through it if it is burnt. It won't except the file without a lot of work on each tooth.

 

[buckhunter10]

wow all great responses.

the chain is not burnt up on this but I do know what you are talking about as I have seen that before
I am not using STHL bar oil, maybe that is the issue

I don't believe the chain is too tight- it seems to be ok with a good snap back to the bar but not too loose either.

I have a friend who is a logger and he told me that the depth tooth is one of the most important pieces to sharpen. I have been working on that piece as do notice a huge cutting difference.

I am thinking maybe I just have hit the dirt a time or two with this chain and the last one and that is what dulled it. It sometimes is hard when you cut a lot of wood and you are working in all sorts of terrain/areas to never hit the dirt. I don't recall doing it as I am very cautious of it, but I must have or cut a log with mud on it to make the saw dull like that.

 

[j-bird]

Something I try to do to avoid cutting dirt is to prop up any log I am cutting on. I tend to pull the logs out of the woods with my tractor and put them in a pile in a level area where I feel safer to work - and it's easier to get the truck to so I can haul the wood out. I only cut in the woods enough to make the pieces more manageable for my tractor. I will tend to "limb" them out in the woods. I then put the log on some sort of support to get it up off the ground and prefer to get it at a better working height of about waist high. I have an FEL on my tractor so that helps as well. If I can't pull it or lift it with my little 30 hp tractor - I more than likely shouldn't be screwing with it any way!!! I realize this isn't something everyone can do, but I just hate working on a steep slope with a saw and I feel a lot safer taking these extra steps.

 

[buckhunter10]

Something I try to do to avoid cutting dirt is to prop up any log I am cutting on. I tend to pull the logs out of the woods with my tractor and put them in a pile in a level area where I feel safer to work - and it's easier to get the truck to so I can haul the wood out. I only cut in the woods enough to make the pieces more manageable for my tractor. I will tend to "limb" them out in the woods. I then put the log on some sort of support to get it up off the ground and prefer to get it at a better working height of about waist high. I have an FEL on my tractor so that helps as well. If I can't pull it or lift it with my little 30 hp tractor - I more than likely shouldn't be screwing with it any way!!! I realize this isn't something everyone can do, but I just hate working on a steep slope with a saw and I feel a lot safer taking these extra steps.

This isn't a good point. I do this on occasion in se Ohio. However the hills are steep and muddy this time of year. I use the Polaris more than the tractor.