New Landowner Guidance

Fetz

New Member
Hi everyone,
If there's a better thread for this please move it.

My wife and I just took the plunge and bought 20.5 acres in Central IL. We should be closing in a couple of weeks. I didn't grow up with land, and I have only been hunting for a few years so I would say I am relatively inexperienced. I have so many ideas and questions about how to manage this property and I'm hoping for some feedback and opinions. I will try to lay out as many details as possible.

There is a dirt floor barn/garage on the property, the southern-most structure on the aerial. The single wide is no longer there. In the longer-term we'd like to eventually build a home here, but for now we plan to put a camper on it. We live an hour away. It is bordered to the south and east by a 34,000 acre state fish and wildlife area open to public hunting which includes a 11,000 acre lake, but access to the areas surrounding my property would require parking half a mile away and walking up the road or crossing the river. The 1/4ac pond on the SW end is totally covered in duckweed at the moment. There are three 1/4ac clearings in the woods that I envisioned turning into food plots. There is a great deal of bush honeysuckle of varying age classes throughout the property. I believe most of the property was used as pasture until about 15-20 years ago and from what I have been able to gather may have never been hunted. There are some good oaks, hickories, and walnuts, but a far greater deal of less valuable trees. Most of the property offers thick cover. I am in contact with the local NRCS office about potential project funding to improve habitat and would love any advice on that process as well. I have not covered every square inch of the property but I did walk it with my land broker (highly recommend Midwest Land Group to anyone, they've been awesome to work with) and we saw our fair share of deer sign. fresh and old droppings, fresh and old rubs, trails, tracks. There's plenty of corn and soybeans across the road to the west and further south. I recognize a parcel this small will not likely hold deer but I hope I can capture traffic. One of the first priorities for me would be to establish a perimeter trail. Any recommendations on how to best approach this? I have some equipment questions as well, mostly being if I should spend the money and get a subcompact tractor or if I would be better off with an ATV and hitch implements. Whatever equipment I get will have to be able to get across the creek. The banks are not incredibly steep and when I visited it during drought conditions the creek bed was only an inch or two deep in many places. I thought maybe I could get by with digging out some fords and maybe eventually putting a bridge in.

What would you consider top priority projects? Are there factors I am failing to consider? Any and all advice would be appreciated! I feel there's a lot of opportunity in this property, but I am managing expectations. I don't expect to hold deer on this property and I don't expect to shoot a Boone and Crockett buck. I'm just glad to have something to call my own and look forward to getting away from the suburban hellhole we live in now.
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First, with only 20 acres, forget any of the hype about QDM or benefitting deer. Instead focus on making your property more huntable. Generally, large public access tracts are high on pressure and low on quality food. I would consider keeping the south of your property that borders this land as thick as possible. I would look to put quality food toward the north side. These are general statements and you will need to consider wind and such. The general idea is that hunting pressure from the public land will send deer into your thick cover to bed during the day. I would consider that south thick section my sanctuary and stay out of it. I would generally look for good locations to put stands based on wind and access through the middle of the property. Deer will generally move from that thick cover through the middle to the north where you've got quality food.

Keep i mind that there are a lot of other consideration like soil type, timber and such when selecting food plot sites.

My first priority would be to do nothing. I would spend several seasons simply selecting stand locations toward the middle of the property and watching how deer relate to your land. Most guys are to anxious and excited after buying land that they can't help themselves from doing "something" to improve it. Of then times, they ruin a good thing.

After you have been through a few hunting seasons, you will have a much better idea of how to change things to make it more huntable.

The other thing I would do up front is to define some achievable objectives. For example, if you are more interested in shooting big bucks, you might want to take a different approach than if you want your kids to enjoy seeding and harvesting deer in general. If you are primarily a bowhunter, you might want to take a different approach than if you just hunt with a firearm.

My biggest suggestion is to take it slow and let the property tell you what improvements will be beneficial.
 
I would walk the property with a device that can give me a GPS location. Make notes of rubs, nut bearing trees, cedars, scrapes, you name it. In July boots on the ground are a good thing. If you bump deer off, the hunters that hit the public land going to send them back your way. Look for any signs of other hunters such as 1) pruned shooting lanes, 2) old stands, 3) that have climber marks, 4) trash on ground, etc.

Myself, I would walk the property boundary and check it super close for deer trails and signs of human foot traffic. A big concern I have would be public hunters saying / acting like your ground is public ground. I would mark my boundary clearly with signs and paint of the color your state recognizes as posted ground.

Your openings in the woods, how much sunlight gets to the ground, what filth could you remove to enlarge each opening.

I agree with Jack Yoder, hunt it at least one year before you get to establishing too much. If you pick 8 to 10 stand / blind locations and rank them before hunting season, you, like the rest of us, will learn that the deer think like deer. What we think isn't important, what the deer show us is very important.

How many people will hunt these 20 acres this fall? How many people have been hunting it the last 3 years? What did they harvest. If you say nobody hunted it, then I put $$ on the public land hunters being on your 20 acres in previous years. Just my opinion of the nature of hunters.

Enjoy your property, have fun. Leave 4 wheelers off your 20 acres. When the time comes, a chainsaw, weed eater and well thought out plan can do a great deal. A small 4-wheeler can help you with plots. I have a 4-foot cultipacker, which my son thought was a mistake. Not so. With small equipment you can get on wet ground sooner and it is less difficult to put it in narrow places.

I saved the best point for last. I read your lack of experience. Get you some good game cameras that are reliable and cheap. Put them out ASAP. At one time we purchased in the $120 to 145 range. Now we have dropped down into the $70 range when they do the big promos. My son has some cell cameras, but I don't. He does that part of the game planning for me. I have rather have 3 cameras in the $70 range instead of the $200 camera. More intel is what you need in the 1st couple of years.

Do you mind saying what county your farm is located in? You could message me, and I will keep it to myself. I no longer hunt Illinois because the out of state license fee went crazy high. I hunt in Ohio now for my out of state trips. I live in Portland, TN.

wbpdeer
 
Welcome to the forum. Congratulations on becoming a landowner. It amazes me how closely we get connected to land we spent time and money on.

wbpdeer
 
I agree with taking things slowly; however, there is one thing you need to do immediately. I would run a good woven wire fence with a strand of barbed wire on top along the west property in order to keep the neighbor's dogs (and the neighbors) from trespassing and running off all of your deer. If those people have free running dogs (or like taking hippie walks) you don't have a prayer. After the fence is run, I would go talk to them in a friendly manner and explain how important it is to you to keep dogs and human traffic off of the land. I would tell them that if they will agree to keep dogs (and themselves) off of the property, you won't put up any ugly signs that would ruin their view into the woods.

I agree with everything WBPdeer said above - especially about marking that public hunting ground border line (south and east) with signs - and making the cover thick. I would even fence that with a low fence just to have it marked well so no one can claim they were confused with where the line was.

PS - If you can control the trespassers and dogs, I think this property could surprise you in what you can achieve. Good luck.
 
Great advice, I definitely planned to heavily mark my property line with purple paint where it borders the public. I have talked with my neighbor to the south, a very nice elderly woman. She doesn't have any dogs, just a bunch of cats (arguably worse than dogs in my opinion). I'm definitely less concerned about the neighbors than I am encroachment by Public land hunters. Cell cameras and a chainsaw will be my first two purchases for sure. Looking at spypoint cameras and an Echo CS590.
 
I have purchased 6 spypoint cameras since May 2021. I’m down to 2 that now work. Yes, the price point is great but there has got to be some others out there that can last me more than a year & be more dependable for me. When these 2 go kaput I’m probably going to look at a different brand. The app is easy to use, pics are good enough quality. With that said, if I were you, I would look at a different brand of cell cam.
 
In the country the neighbor's cats can be a nuisance but their dogs can ruin your life.

Any reason why you wouldn't buy a Stihl?

A utv is a pretty invaluable tool that you would use every day.

1-2 good acres of clover is the starting point for food plotting.

" I am in contact with the local NRCS office about potential project funding to improve habitat and would love any advice on that process as well."
14 months ago I called my forester with a question about wooly adelgid which led to me now being contracted for 136 acres of timber stand improvement plus invasive management. Does $289/acre for TSI get your attention, it did mine, EQIP. It is the forester's job to come out to your property in order to help you.

G
 
Don't have any problems with Stihl. I've used Stihl rescue saws and chainsaws with no complaints, but when I'm not footing the bill for it of course I love a $700 chainsaw. When I started researching the Echo CS590 really seems like a legit contender that outperforms Stihls in the $400 range like the 271.

Have you planted with a UTV? I've seen a lot of guys on Youtube using ATVs but not any UTVs. Just curious. I'd love to be able to carry tools and an extra passenger.

TSI through EQIP is exactly what I am hoping to get enrolled in. It may impact my hunting a bit but I would prioritize being a good steward of the land first and foremost. There is an NWTF forester in my area who has a grant from NRCS to write land management plans at no cost to me, that's on the books for early this fall. That should allow me to be in the next round of EQIP project funding requests.
 
Don't have any problems with Stihl. I've used Stihl rescue saws and chainsaws with no complaints, but when I'm not footing the bill for it of course I love a $700 chainsaw. When I started researching the Echo CS590 really seems like a legit contender that outperforms Stihls in the $400 range like the 271.

Have you planted with a UTV? I've seen a lot of guys on Youtube using ATVs but not any UTVs. Just curious. I'd love to be able to carry tools and an extra passenger.

TSI through EQIP is exactly what I am hoping to get enrolled in. It may impact my hunting a bit but I would prioritize being a good steward of the land first and foremost. There is an NWTF forester in my area who has a grant from NRCS to write land management plans at no cost to me, that's on the books for early this fall. That should allow me to be in the next round of EQIP project funding requests.

I used my UTV for spraying and pulling my cultipacker, I used a bag seeder for planting. Your farmer friend next door can be very helpful when you actually do need a tractor.

TSI will greatly impact your deer hunting by making your ground a place deer want to be.

IL doesn't have state foresters?

G
 
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I'll just echo what @George said about the TSI. I just finished up a Forest Stand Improvement EQIP project on my place in Kentucky. They paid me $328.13/acre to nock back the basal area (targeting tree species I wanted to take out) and take out invasives. I had a Forest Management Plan done first from a forester (which was also an EQIP program that I was paid back for). Then, he came in and marked trees to take out, and I came in after and did the work. The NRCS guy came and checked after I was finished, and they sent the check. I would do it again in a heartbeat. Between that and my pollinator planting EQIP project, every acre of my ground has had habitat work done on it, and it will just keep getting better.
 
I worked for a county high dept in wi ,and I won't say anything good about echo chain saws our experience was very unlike Stihl or husky. Lots of good info was offered here but you must check with the programs in your state and county .What is available to others may not be for you. You have time to research what is available to you try to make the most of it.I use a utv for food plots with good success,I like to sit next to my passenger and have a box to haul whatever. Good luck
 
I'll just echo what @George said about the TSI. I just finished up a Forest Stand Improvement EQIP project on my place in Kentucky. They paid me $328.13/acre to nock back the basal area (targeting tree species I wanted to take out) and take out invasives. I had a Forest Management Plan done first from a forester (which was also an EQIP program that I was paid back for). Then, he came in and marked trees to take out, and I came in after and did the work. The NRCS guy came and checked after I was finished, and they sent the check. I would do it again in a heartbeat. Between that and my pollinator planting EQIP project, every acre of my ground has had habitat work done on it, and it will just keep getting better.

We use EQIP effectively as well. USDA was great a providing free biologist advice and combined with free game department biologist advice and advice from our private forester we developed a forest stewardship plan. Once again, moving fast with planning and gathering data is great, but slowing down with implementation is also beneficial. It took us several years to finalize the plan. It ended up quite different from initial advice. After doing homework and consulting with each expert, we were able to go back to them and say "but what about..." based on advice from others and research. Had we gone with the first suggestions to get moving with the implementation, our outcomes would be quite different.

USDA has been great to work with for us as well.
 
Welcome to the forum! Tons of great advice on here. The group that’s chimed in so far are some of the main ones I’ve followed and listened to over the years. Great guys and great outdoorsmen. This site, if used properly, will save you tons of mistakes and wasted money / effort and grow your experience faster than anything you can imagine. This is my favorite place on the internet. Best of luck to you.
 
Top things I'd get going:

1. Your camp. Can't work if you can't stay.
2. Your perimeter trail. I'd keep it as narrow as possible and serpentine it a little. Big straight wide trails can be a barrier bucks won't cross.
3. If those food plot spots are already open I'd plant them. I'd plan for food that deer will target when your hunting. Brassicas will get eaten early. Rye will get eaten last. Sync your food up with when you want to hunt.

4. Investigate if you can drain that pond and dig it down for your own fish pond. That's a great location in relation to your camp.
5. Learn to ID all your trees, and make a plan to make your native vegetation stand out
6. Understand your prevailing winds and get some spots set up to hunt based on your most common wind.
7. Get a comprehensive soil sample from 1 or all 3 of your plots. Don't go cheap on this because those free or cheap tests don't give you all the info you need. Depending on the growing plan you take, you may never need another test ever again, so cough up for the good one once.

***Most importantly, I'd invest a lot of time understanding what is going on human-wise around your property all year long, but especially during hunting season. You'll need to have a plan to use the crowd to your advantage. I wouldn't rule out a 5' or 6' woven wire fence on your problematic sides. Deer can clear it which is good, but they'll also use it as a sanctuary if they know and feel dogs and humans can't get in.
 
You have gotten some excellent advice already. We all have different priorities, but mine would be to fence the entire 20 acres first, along with clearing a perimeter trail as you said. As suggested, a good no-climb fence five feet high with one strand of barbed wire on top even with the fabric and one on bottom. The barbed wire needs to be clipped to the fence fabric with pig rings. This keeps the fabric where it belongs and also makes it harder for anything to get under.

My next priority would be to put cameras up where your common sense tells you to. That would be rub lines and any other deer sign you can find. Get a couple trace mineral blocks from a feed store, put them in likely places, and put cameras on them. The advice to not choose food plot locations for a year or so is good too, but on a place that small, I would probably choose those locations based more on prevailing wind direction during deer season than anything else. If you can’t access your stand without getting busted you’re just gonna feed deer, not eat them.

I think that a good two acre plot, one which has some varience in shape and not a square, would pull in deer from surrounding properties as long as you plant something they want to eat. More and more these days, I lean toward a mix of crops instead of a monoculture. I’ve always been pretty big on wheat with either MRC or AWP, but I’m about to break that habit and plant a blend of several things this fall.

Good luck on your journey !05130039.jpeg
 
1) Familiarize yourself with game laws. Do not put mineral out, can't do that in Illinois.
2) Begin learning a few plant/tree species so you can identify valuable trees walnut, white oak, etc. You can start spraying out invasives immediately. Use a basal bark spray.
3) A lot of good advice above. Hunt a season before you make permanent plans, but you will probably want thick cover on your perimeter and lots of food to pull deer off the public.
4) I hate fencing and am still tearing it out on my property, I don't like it for predator/prey interactions and fawns get stuck in it. However, I don't have severe dog problems. Dogs can and will ruin a property of that size.
Good Luck and enjoy!
 
One thing to keep in mind with state forestry, is the totality of the project if you follow the guidelines to get the payment. My in-laws did this on their property and the only regret they had was the number of trees that were eliminated. There are some portions of their creek bottom that were made up almost completely of “undesirables”. If the family had done the work themselves, they would have left a few of the elms/maple/sycamore trees just for the ascetic appeal and cover as the more desirable trees grow. In Kansas anyway, you have to follow the plan to the tee, or payment will be withheld.
 
Congrats on your new property

I’ve done with and wo a tractor. To me a bushhog and bucket is invaluable once having one. But with that said my first year plantings were with an atv, spreader, bed springs, and lawn roller. One of those clover plots still exist 15 years later.
As for game I’d do very little till you observe their patterns for a year. Then proceed w a plan. Good luck


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