More great information to have guys. I appreciate it.
I will be looking into the red dot as I will be headed to bass pro this weekend. If I don't find something I like there I will check someplace else.
Question on the blind that is elevated. What would the minimum height off the ground need to be? I am thinking about the materials I have to build one but it would only put the blind 4-5 feet up in the air. Is something better than nothing or would that be a waste?
It really depends on the details of the situation. The key is having a good backstop behind the target. Woods or ground are great backstops. From a safety perspective, there is a balance. Elevation makes your shot at a more downward angle, but leaving the ground also presents risks to the hunter. Never climb with a firearm or bow. Always use a haul line to raise the unloaded firearm into the stand. Caution need to be taken in raising it as you don't want the muzzle pointed at you as you haul it up but also don't want any potential barrel obstruction from the barrel contacting the ground. The make devices for this by you can also right something up yourself.
As I said earlier, hunting safely is not just one thing. It is evaluating the situation.
Since you mentioned shooting down hill into the woods as a background, and that this may be a temporary hunting situation, it may not be worth the effort to raise the blind, especially building a permanent elevated blind.
I have build quite a few permanent elevated blinds so I could take out kids (and now that I'm older, I use them more myself). Never try to use a tree as part of an elevated blind build. Any permanent blind should be freestanding. For most folks, elevation is used to improve hunting success not safety. Any time you are climbing (verses a box blind with stairs) you should wear a full body harness and be tethered at all times. I rope should be attached above the stand and the hunter attached to it with a short lead with a prussic knot. You slide the knot as you climb. Always have 3 points of contact.
To use trees for elevation, use a commercially build stand approved by the TMA. Follow the manufacturers instructions for installation and use. There are also commercially made elevated blinds, but they are not budget friendly.
My general sense is that, based on your description, you should be good with a ground blind, especially given you are opting for a smooth barrel shotgun with rifled slugs and limiting to short shots in the direction of a good background.
As far as height goes in general, here are some thoughts. For bowhunting from an open treestand, 20'-25' seems to be the sweet spot. Higher presents poor angles for shorter shots. Lower increases the chances of being detected by deer since shots should be limited to 20'-30' yards depending on shooter skills. Having said that, many are not comfortable with climbing that high. Now that I'm older, I'm personally not. I now limit my treestand hunting to ladder stands in the 15'-20' range. However, many a skilled bowhunter who know how to control scent and movement have taken many deer from stands that are only 10' off the ground.
Enclosed blinds are a bit different. Most I've build are much closer to the ground. The window seals are anywhere from 8'-15' depending on the surrounding terrain. Box blinds help hold in scent and conceal movement so less height is needed for success, especially with a firearm where shooting distances can be longer. The local terrain and practical consideration generally dictate box blind height for me.
