New One Man Boat

I think I'm going to get rid of the YakAttack Switchblade. It works pretty well but there are a few issues. First, it is a bit of a pain for entry and exit of the boat. I can kind of fold it out of the way some, but not completely. At higher speeds, it has some movement. I did notice that one side of my SI is darker than the other. This could be caused by multiple issues, but one of them is that the transducer on the switchblade is not quite deep enough. It is intended for a kayak, not an inflatable.

So, I started working on a design for a transducer pole. While this pole won't need to rotate like the one I made for Megalive 2, it will need to slide vertically. I think the best place to attach it is to the oar locks. I started working on it today. I had some 1x1x1/8 square tube scraps. I plan to use them as back brackets to secure the same 1 1/4" pvc conduit I used for the outer pipe on the Megalive 2 pole. Putting the square tube inside the oarlocks and the pipe horizontally outside, I plan to simply bolt them together to hold the pipe in place. I'll then use an elbow and Tee fitting to get the Tee mounted vertically just outside the inflation chamber. I'll then use the same 1" PVC conduit I used for the inner pole of the Megalive 2 pole. My plan is to pin it so I can change the depth of the transducer and stow it by pinning it well out of the water.

I grabbed the fittings and bolts on the way home from church this morning. I got part of it done, but the bolts I got were a half inch too small. When I get back to lowes and get the right size bolts and start the first steps, I'll take a couple pictures.

If this is successful, the pole will be more stout than the switchblade and allow for greater depth while being out of my road for entry and exit.
 
I got the bolts, so here is a picture of the first step:

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Here is a picture with the elbow and Tee:

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It is not cemented in place yet, but it give you an idea of what it will look like.

Unrelated to this mod, the electric pump I have is a SeaMax and it is setup to plug into a cigarette outlet. The parts came in, so I hooked up a cigarette outlet to a trolling motor plug. This will allow me to simply unplug the trolling motor and plug in the pump when needed so I don't have to open up the battery box and use alligator clips.

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I made a bit more progress this morning. The fixed outer pipe sections have all been glued in place. In this picture you see the inner pole inserted.

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I used the trailer as a proxy for the water level. I'm sure the water level will be slightly above that. I made the inner post tall enough that I can drop the transducer about a foot deep. I'm sure that is much further and I will need to to remove any issues. I doubt I'd ever need to run it more than 6" deep, and for safety purposes I doubt I will. When I put it in the stowed position, that pole will really stick up a lot, so once I get it in the water and test it out, I'll probably cut off the top of the pole to reduce the adjustment to just what I need.
 
I finished up the mounting pole for the 2D/DI/SI transducer this morning. I removed it from the boat and put it in a vise so I could test all the settings. Here it is in the deepest setting:

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The next picture shows it in the shallowest operating position:

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The picture below shows it in the stowed position

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The final pic shows it mounted back on the boat in the stowed position:

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In order to launch and load the boat, I need to wade in to thigh level at some of the places I launch. That works fine in the summer with shorts. I think I'd like to be able to try fishing into the fall, so I ordered a pair of Simms stocking foot waders and some FrogTog felt sole boots. The boots came in a while back, but the waders just came in yesterday. The waders fit great, but the boots were a half size too small. They only sell these in whole sizes on amazon, so I returned them for the next larger size.

The replacements are supposed to arrive later this week, so I hope to get back on the water and test the new pole then.
 
I decided to test out the mods I made to the boat and do some fishing today. It is getting a bit too cool for shorts, and the boots I ordered for the stocking foot waders came in this morning.

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The boat needed me to push it a bit at this launch because of the raised rollers, but it was easy as pie to do. When I loaded the boat, the raised rollers did help it load smoother.

It was a windy day. I started out checking out the electronics. I used the new pole and put the 2D/SI/DI transducer at the shallowest setting to start with. It worked great. There were no issues from the boat. I can't see any reason to put it any deeper. I did not measure how deep it was but I should have. At any rate, I plan to cut off the top of the pole. I plan to leave the next two deeper settings, just in case, and get rid of the top of the pole.

I started out making one pass up the lake with the side imaging being recorded. I plan to transfer that to my computer to mark waypoints at structures for future trips. Not much was biting when I started about 1pm. I did catch a few small crappie about 3pm, but nothing large enough to bother filleting unless I had other larger fish. I quit about 4pm. It was windy but a nice day otherwise.

I'm happy with the mods I made!
 
When I was having issues with the side imaging, Humminbird sent me a new transducer to try. So, when I setup the new pole, I used the new transducer and left the old one on the YakAttack Switchblade, just in case there was an issue with the new setup. Given the way the new setup performed the other day, I pulled the Switchbalde and old transducer. This will make entry into the boat easier for me.
 
The weather seems to have broken here and crappie spawning will soon be upon us here in VA. So, I'm back at working on the boat again. If you scroll back up in the thread, you will see I started with a bow mount Minn Kota Edge. It is a foot pedal cable driven control electric motor with 45 lbs of thrust. While the power was more than enough for my inflatable, I had a few issues. First, the foot pedal was hard to keep in place but workable. Irritating, but not a big deal. The second, and more important issue, was that because the inflatable has such a large wind profile, I found it difficult to use the forward imaging, hold the boat in place, and fish.

With all the new fancy fish finding technology I got for the boat, the trolling motor was the same old technology I was using 30+ years ago when I had a bass boat. So, this winter, I decided I would upgrade the motor. I settled on the Minn Kota Kayak Terrova. It is a scaled down version of their regular Terrova series. It has a shorter shaft for a Kayak and comes with the mini remote instead of the remote with the screen. It is electric drive and integrates with the other onboard technology.

Because the Kayak Terrova was new, there was no discounting on price. I was hoping that on black Friday or after Christmas I would see a sale. Minn Kota offered $500 off many of the electric motors, including the Terrova series, but because it was new, the Kayak Terrova was excluded. It was too cold in the last part of January and all of February to work on the boat, so I just held off buying it. I did pick up the electric foot pedal control for it when I found it on sale as well as a heading sensor that is needed to use some of the more advanced features. I also picked up the Quick Release mounting bracket for it.

With the weather breaking, I ordered it off Amazon (best price I could find $100 of list and fee shipping) and it came in last week. For the last few days, I've been working on the installation:

The first thing I did was to figure out the layout and I installed the quick release bracket. That went pretty well. I must have torqued it a bit when I tightened the screws, either to the deck board or to the motor itself, because when I tried to insert the locking mechanism, I couldn't quite get it through the holes. It worked fine before it was installed, so I presume there was slight torque. I was able to resolve that by running a drill bit through the holes.

The next big decision was whether to install the kill switch. I understand that on a kayak, there is a threat of flipping it, so it makes sense to wear a wrist strap like you do when operating the gas motor on a bass boat. However, with my inflatable, I think the risk of flipping is zero and falling over board is low. I'm fishing while running the motor and can't realistically wear a wrist strap anyway. So, I decided to connect the motor directly to the battery and circuit breaker just like the Edge. So, I cut the plug off the Edge and installed it on the Kayak Terrova.

I was able to turn on the power and the green light lit up like it should. Rather than playing with the remote that uses bluetooth and worry about paring and everything, I decided to connect the foot pedal. It is a simple cable connection. In order to test it, I set the depth very shallow so the motor sits above the trailer when deployed and the prop can spin unobstructed. You can see this in the pic:

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Curiously, I was able to turn the shaft with the foot pedal and the constant light and auto pilot switches lit up when flipped, I was unable to turn the prop. I put the speed on 1 and tried constant, momentary, and the prop on/off switch and none worked. So, I'm now wondering why:

- Bad motor?
- Bad foot control?
- Some kind of safety sensor that won't turn the prop if the motor is set too shallow or out of the water?
- Perhaps the kill switch must be installed.

At that point, I sent a message to Minn Kota tech support to see what they say.

Next, I decided to try the remote. It paired with the motor easily. It responded just like the foot pedal. I could turn the shaft and use all the functions except turning the prop. I think that eliminates the bad foot control.

I'm sure I won't hear from Tech support until Monday or Tuesday, so in the meantime, I installed the heading sensor. That was pretty straight forward with one exception. They say not to place it near ferrous metal or near power cables. To check the location, I intended to just use my orienteering compass. Well, the compass seemed to be off compared to my sense of north. After thinking about it for a minute, the boat is under a metal overhang next to a metal barn. I walked out into the field a bit and north changed to where I thought it should be. I really didn't have many places I could put the heading sensor, so I just installed it without verifying it with a compass. We will see how that works out.

The only other change I made was to move the anchor system to the other end of the boat. In order to put the teak deck on the boat, I had to install the raft hardware backwards so the intended front was the back and visa versa. So the anchor system was in the front of the boat. I wanted to make sure it did not affect the motor, so I moved it to the side near the rear. I didn't take picture of that yet.

So, if anyone has any idea why they prop won't turn let me know. It spins fine by hand. I'm starting to think it might be that the safety kill switch must be installed.
 
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