New Equipment

[yoderjac]

I've always used my tractor FEL and a box blade to maintain roads. As some of you know, I recently retired and am in the middle of a retirement home construction. We will have a 1/4 mile driveway in addition to the logging roads at the farm to maintain. I thought I would try a new approach. Today, I ordered a land leveler. I ordered it from Everything Attachments. It seemed heavier duty than Titan and some of the other competition. We bought a disk from them for maintaining firebreaks a few years ago and I'm happy with it.

The pic above is from their web site. They are saying 1 to 2 weeks for delivery. They are close enough to me that I qualify for free freight shipping. Normally, I would have them ship to a freight terminal and pick it up, but given the current diesel prices, I decided it was worth paying the $125 residential delivery charge to have them deliver it directly here.

When I get a chance to use it, I'll report back on this thread. It has both cat 1 and 2 hookup. I'll probably be able to use my Kubota B2400 for light work but it will be a lot for that tractor. My Kioti DK45 should handle it easily even with tines deployed. I decided to order a 6' version. Not only can both tractors handle it, but I should be able to make a pass in each direction on a road sort of crowning it in the middle if I want. While the Kioti could handle a larger model, I think crowning would be tougher.

 

[jsasker007]

Is that the same thing as a land plane? Been thinking about trying something like this myself even though the box blade I have seems to get the job done I'm always looking for something that might work better. I'll wait to see what you have to say after you use it a couple times. Bit of a learning curve to everything. Box blade works pretty good for my jobs so far.

 

[yoderjac]

Yes, it is called a land plane. I too have been using a box blade. This will be my first experience with a land plane, but here is my understanding of the difference. A box blade is best at moving a large amount of material from one place to another. It take some amount of skill to constantly adjust the 3-pt hitch as you go. A land plane is better at moving smaller amounts of material to take off high spots and fill in low spots. Material is constantly building up and spilling over behind the plane. You generally don't need to adjust the height as the sides ride on the ground. Once you get the angle correct, you just drive the tractor and let it do it's thing. You make multiple passes as needed. The cutters are angled, so there is some movement of material from one side to another but not a lot. With multiple passes in opposite directions on a road you could put a crown in the middle. You can also adjust one of the 3pt arms a little higher to increase this side-to-side movement of material.

Both my box blade and the land plane I got have tines. One thing with a land plan is that because the sides ride on the ground, you don't want a large hump or dip where the sides ride. Some folks don't need or want a crown on a road, so you can just go down the center and remove the crown. Most roads used regularly develop a crown with the tires riding on either side. If you have water issues you likely want a crown in flat areas and a slope one direction or the other on slopes.

I'm expecting the land plane to be easier to use. It is more about where you use is then constantly adjusting it as you go. I think it will be easier for road and trail maintenance, but time will tell. I have not heard anything about it being shipped yet. They said 1 to 2 weeks.

 

[jsasker007]

Sounds like the cats' PJ's for driveway conditioning. Box blade works good for getting things to level but sounds like the plane needs to be added to the arsenal. I think I'll buy one and the wife can find out after I have it in the yard. Easier to ask forgiveness than permission ya know. Plus, she just doesn't understand how a guy can't live without these implements. Now to figure the right size to get.

 

[jsasker007]

Didn't realize the cutting edge/blade was adjustable. That's a plus. THANKS

 

[yoderjac]

Didn't realize the cutting edge/blade was adjustable. That's a plus. THANKS

The blades are not adjustable, in general for use. When I was talking about raising one side to improve side-to-side material movement, I was revering to raising one of the 3-pt hitch arms. The cutting edges are adjustable for wear. As the cutting edge wears down from use, you can drop them (at leas on the model I got by 3/4 of an inch to get more use out of them. Then you can flip them over for a brand new edge.

As far as size goes, the first limitation will be your tractor size. The one I got was for my DK45 primarily. They said my Kubota b2400 could also handle it for light work like maintaining a gravel driveway, but if I need to drop the tines and do heavier work, it may be too much for the b2400. The one I got is 6'. That is about right for me to make one pass each way on a driveway or logging road. I was concerned that anything wider would be to wide for my primary applications.

The company I bought mine from is not inexpensive, but when I compare how heavy duty they build them compared to Titan or other small equipment builders, the added cost was worth it to me. The design is very well thought out. They are made in NC, and I'm withing the 750 mile free freight zone for them. Because diesel is so expensive right not, I paid an extra $125 for residential delivery. It would have cost me about that to drive to the nearest freight terminal and back to pick it up. My last fill up was over $150! This is a company hype video, but when I compare it to the specs of the competition, I buy most of his claims:

They do make a lighter duty version for smaller utility tractors that is less expensive. I have not compared that one to the competition as I wanted the heavy duty one.

By the way, several years ago, when I was looking for a disk for maintaining firebreaks, I ended up going with this company after comparing several. We have been very happy with that implement, and I've run it very hard. That is what got me to look at this company for a land plane.

 

[jsasker007]

Should be able to get one of my tractors set up to use it. Have a few options there. 4052r,4075r and a 5100m. They might all be able to do it. Have to look into the size options for a plane on the width I think. Going from memory I think the widest tractor is around 78". I'll research what's out there and see how you like the one you get and go from there. THANKS

 

[yoderjac]

Yep, those tractors are much larger than my dk45. I'm sure they could handle a 7' or 8' model. I think a box blade probably requires more tractor than a land plane, so if you're happy with how your tractor handles a box blade, I'm sure it could handle a land plane of equal width.

 

[jsasker007]

Box blade has been easy enough on the tractor until you find a root! Luckily I was going really slow because catching the root of a big oak tree stopped me and bent one of the fairly heavy teeth on the box. Note to self about that.

 

[jsasker007]

I do like the video and the fact that these guys are always looking to improve the product. A few good changes they made already to something that worked but they want better. That says something right there. The pin system for moving those heavy bars is a damn good idea because what the guy says about the awkward pins and busting knuckles is absolute truth. Wish I had his improved ideas on the box blade I've got.

 

[yoderjac]

I do like the video and the fact that these guys are always looking to improve the product. A few good changes they made already to something that worked but they want better. That says something right there. The pin system for moving those heavy bars is a damn good idea because what the guy says about the awkward pins and busting knuckles is absolute truth. Wish I had his improved ideas on the box blade I've got.

Yes, I also like how the tines on this adjust compared to my box blade with holes and a pin.

 

[yoderjac]

The land plane arrived today. Very heavy duty. We offloaded it with the neighbors skid steer. It was strapped to a pallet and covered with plastic. I could not pull out the wedge from the tines to raise it. It turned out this was because the tines were sitting on the pallet. Once I hooked it to my Kubota B2400 and lifted it, I could easily pull the wedges and adjust the tines. I put them up all the way. The B2400 would barely lift it off the pallet.

I tested it with the B2400 since my DK45 is at the farm and my truck is in the shop. It worked pretty well with 57s quarry stone and dirt on the level, but the part of the driveway I wanted to work on first has some heavy base stone. About the size of a kids fist. The Kubota was not heavy enough and the tires would spin and I would need to raise it to move forward. I won't have that issue with the DK45. As for the land plane itself, it worked exactly as expected and advertised on this first test run.

 

[Mennoniteman]

That looks like a big improvement over a three point blade

 

[yoderjac]

That looks like a big improvement over a three point blade

It probably depends on what your task, but I think for leveling and road maintenance it is a better tool in general than a rear blade.

 

[jsasker007]

Figured you would be doing every driveway you could find to use your new toy? Get a chance to test it out yet?

 

[yoderjac]

Figured you would be doing every driveway you could find to use your new toy? Get a chance to test it out yet?

Yes, I got my truck back from the shop on Monday morning. It rained all day Monday. On Tuesday I headed to the farm and picked up the tractor with the big mower. I spent Tuesday afternoon and this morning mowing at the retirement property. I then pulled the mower and attached the land plane and got to work on the driveway. It works like a charm with the DK45. The only issue I noticed is that when I lift it after use, the rear end of the plane is drooping. It looks like my hydraulic toplink is probably getting extended a bit from the resistance of the land plane. That is not the land plane's fault, I could just use a stronger hydraulic toplink.

The land plane itself did everything it was supposed to do.. My driveway needs some more stone and some build-up in spots, but we will wait until after the house is done and the construction vehicles are gone before doing that. I'm hoping to surface it with millings, but that is a ways off.

 

[jsasker007]

I don't have any experience with hydraulic top links, mine are all manual. Depending on what I'm pulling or lifting they will sometimes want to keep "growing" while I'm working. Does a hydraulic T.L. have any pressure adjustments anywhere? Does the link react with any of the up/down/pressure controls? I have settings/options to lift quicker/slower or adjust depth with controls in the cab. Just curious about the hydraulic link and if it's adjustable at all.

 

[yoderjac]

I love my hydraulic top-link. First, it makes hookup much quicker and easier. Second, I can adjust the length from the cab with the detent control. There are no adjustments for it besides the detent control. My issue is similar to bucket drop with a loader. Lift you bucket and curl it. As the hydraulics get older, over time it will drop a bit or uncurl a bit. It is the same thing with the hydraulic toplink. It only cost me a couple hundred dollars and some of the best money I spent on the tractor.

With my big RM990 mower and with my Kasco Versadrill, I fashioned a short length of chain between the toplink and the pin. When I retract the toplink, the chain tightens so I can lift the implement for transport. When I drop the mower to mow, I extend the top link enough so there is slack in the chain. This sort of makes a 3-pt implement act like a tow behind implement. A tow behind implement follows the ground curvature better than a 3pt, be cause the 3pt implement is level with respect to the tractor. So, when you go over a hump, the implement lifts. A tow behind, because it does not have a toplink attached, follows the ground over the hump. Just a little slack in the chain is enough for my mower to follow the ground. Same with the drill. Instead of lifting and missing spots when I go over a hump, it follows the ground and plants it all.

The hydraulic toplink has two hydraulic hoses that connect to the rear ports on my tractor. It is controlled with the detent control in the cab. It is normally in the neutral position and maintains a fixed length. When I push the detent forward, it retracts until I put the detent back in the neutral position or it reaches its limit. When I pull the detent back, extends and does the same.

My 3pt does not have any down pressure. It is controlled separately with the lift lever and a draft control lever. It is independent of the toplink.

 

[Mennoniteman]

I love my hydraulic top-link. First, it makes hookup much quicker and easier. Second, I can adjust the length from the cab with the detent control. There are no adjustments for it besides the detent control. My issue is similar to bucket drop with a loader. Lift you bucket and curl it. As the hydraulics get older, over time it will drop a bit or uncurl a bit. It is the same thing with the hydraulic toplink. It only cost me a couple hundred dollars and some of the best money I spent on the tractor.

With my big RM990 mower and with my Kasco Versadrill, I fashioned a short length of chain between the toplink and the pin. When I retract the toplink, the chain tightens so I can lift the implement for transport. When I drop the mower to mow, I extend the top link enough so there is slack in the chain. This sort of makes a 3-pt implement act like a tow behind implement. A tow behind implement follows the ground curvature better than a 3pt, be cause the 3pt implement is level with respect to the tractor. So, when you go over a hump, the implement lifts. A tow behind, because it does not have a toplink attached, follows the ground over the hump. Just a little slack in the chain is enough for my mower to follow the ground. Same with the drill. Instead of lifting and missing spots when I go over a hump, it follows the ground and plants it all.

The hydraulic toplink has two hydraulic hoses that connect to the rear ports on my tractor. It is controlled with the detent control in the cab. It is normally in the neutral position and maintains a fixed length. When I push the detent forward, it retracts until I put the detent back in the neutral position or it reaches its limit. When I pull the detent back, extends and does the same.

My 3pt does not have any down pressure. It is controlled separately with the lift lever and a draft control lever. It is independent of the toplink.

I love my hydraulic top link on my tractor too. This is one of those items that I didn't know how essential it was until I had one, now I'm wondering why tractor manufacturers don't install these as standard equipment?

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[yoderjac]

I love my hydraulic top link on my tractor too. This is one of those items that I didn't know how essential it was until I had one, now I'm wondering why tractor manufacturers don't install these as standard equipment?

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I'm guessing it is because the specifics depend on your implements. You need to figure out the shortest position for some implements you use and the longest position for others to pick the right one for your situation.