jsasker007
Active Member
I haven't had to replace any yet. Is it a simple fix or will I need to get mentally prepared for a battle?
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Grading tips?
- Thread starter yoderjac
- Start date
yoderjac
Well-Known Member
The first time was a little tougher because I had not done it before. This time was a breeze. Here is what I did:
1) Tip the cab with the boom perpendicular to the ground to lift the track on the offending side.
2) Loosen the grease nut to allow the track to sag. Depending on which roller it is you may want to run a block of wood through the track gears to increase slack. I did not need to do this for this one.
3) Take out bolts on both sides of the roller. I used a 1/2" breaker bar and put a black pipe over the end for leverage.
4) The first one I replaced was a tight fit and I needed to use a hammer to force it into place. This last was was just a few light taps to position it.
5) Replace the bolts.
6) Adjust track sag to spec. It is about 1/2" on the 35G
7) Drop the cab and start running it. It may be a good Idea to check track sag again after running it a bit.
1) Tip the cab with the boom perpendicular to the ground to lift the track on the offending side.
2) Loosen the grease nut to allow the track to sag. Depending on which roller it is you may want to run a block of wood through the track gears to increase slack. I did not need to do this for this one.
3) Take out bolts on both sides of the roller. I used a 1/2" breaker bar and put a black pipe over the end for leverage.
4) The first one I replaced was a tight fit and I needed to use a hammer to force it into place. This last was was just a few light taps to position it.
5) Replace the bolts.
6) Adjust track sag to spec. It is about 1/2" on the 35G
7) Drop the cab and start running it. It may be a good Idea to check track sag again after running it a bit.
jsasker007
Active Member
I'm thinking I may have to do this pretty soon. Got a "squeaker" in there somewhere on mine. Were yours greaseless or did you have a zerk on them somewhere? I should have had mine checked when maintenance was done by the dealer but if you don't tell them specific things to do they usually don't do anything extra.
yoderjac
Well-Known Member
There are no zerks on the 35G rollers. I presume they are sealed lubricated. Squeaking was the first sign for me.
yoderjac
Well-Known Member
I've started a couple new projects with the mini-excavator at the farm. The first is our front gate. Long before we owned the property, it was owned by Westvaco, a timber company. They used a chain locked around a large jack pine to secure the front gate. Over the many years. the tree grew to the point that it was killed by the chain. I noticed falling limbs last winter. I was concerned the tree might fall on my pavilion, propane tank or even hit our barn. One of the partners had an old junk trailer where he stayed at the farm before he died. We finally got rid of that trailer early this spring. I want that trailer removed before we took down the tree because it would be much harder to get rid of the tailer if the tree fell on it.
So, a couple weeks ago, I planned to take down the tree. My plan was to cut it down above the chain as step one. That way we could continue to lock the gate to it until we had time to replace with with a 6x6 post. Well, my plan did not work out too well. I notched the tree, which was pretty straight, in the direction I wanted it to fall. I then started the back cut. I got about 90% through to the notch. Normally, I want to see the tree lean in the direction of fall enough that I can see a slight gap at the chainsaw bar. For whatever reason, I so no gap. It did not pinch the bar as if falling the wrong direction, it just did not gap.
I decided to be on the safe side. I stopped cutting, and decided to use the 35g to nudge it in the right direction. I put very little pressure on it with the bucket and it fell when I wanted, but to my surprise, it did not break at the spot where I had cut 90% through the tree. Instead, the base of the tree, below the tree had rotted enough that it broke off there. I glad I did not wait any longer to take it down. A wind in the right direction could have had it crash on any number of things.
The good news is that it is now down safely. Since we could no longer use it to lock the gate, I figured I'd pull the stump and fill the hole until we can get the 6x6 installed.
Here is a pick of where I left things:
The next project is clearing an area behind our ATV shed on the back side of the barn. We had his area clearcut during our last timber sale. I've been working a few hours a day.
After Day 1:
After Day 3:
So, a couple weeks ago, I planned to take down the tree. My plan was to cut it down above the chain as step one. That way we could continue to lock the gate to it until we had time to replace with with a 6x6 post. Well, my plan did not work out too well. I notched the tree, which was pretty straight, in the direction I wanted it to fall. I then started the back cut. I got about 90% through to the notch. Normally, I want to see the tree lean in the direction of fall enough that I can see a slight gap at the chainsaw bar. For whatever reason, I so no gap. It did not pinch the bar as if falling the wrong direction, it just did not gap.
I decided to be on the safe side. I stopped cutting, and decided to use the 35g to nudge it in the right direction. I put very little pressure on it with the bucket and it fell when I wanted, but to my surprise, it did not break at the spot where I had cut 90% through the tree. Instead, the base of the tree, below the tree had rotted enough that it broke off there. I glad I did not wait any longer to take it down. A wind in the right direction could have had it crash on any number of things.
The good news is that it is now down safely. Since we could no longer use it to lock the gate, I figured I'd pull the stump and fill the hole until we can get the 6x6 installed.
Here is a pick of where I left things:
The next project is clearing an area behind our ATV shed on the back side of the barn. We had his area clearcut during our last timber sale. I've been working a few hours a day.
After Day 1:
After Day 3:
jsasker007
Active Member
Glad things didn't go any worse than they did. The clearing is looking good.
yoderjac
Well-Known Member
Things have finally dried out a little bit so I continued the project today and made a bit more progress. Before I started today, I went out to swap some camera batteries in my camera network on the farm. I opened one of the dry boxes and was surprised by a large wasp nest inside. I got stung once before I was able to close the box and back out. I headed back to camp and got some spray. I headed back out. I opened the box again and sprayed. Of course, I got stung a second time. I figured I let it stand a couple ours until any wasps that were not in the box when I sprayed came back and decided to abandon the nest, so I headed back and began working on the clearing project.
When I finished working on the clearing project for the day, I headed back out to change the battery. You guess it...I got stung a 3rd time! But, I did finally get the battery changed.
I'm going to have to find a way to keep wasps out of the plastic dry box. I cut holes in the bottom for the wires and drainage. I don't want any humidity in the box to condense and form water. That is where the wasps entered. I think I'll need to use some kind of gromets around the wires and drill air flow holes that are small enough that wasps can't get in.
When I finished working on the clearing project for the day, I headed back out to change the battery. You guess it...I got stung a 3rd time! But, I did finally get the battery changed.
I'm going to have to find a way to keep wasps out of the plastic dry box. I cut holes in the bottom for the wires and drainage. I don't want any humidity in the box to condense and form water. That is where the wasps entered. I think I'll need to use some kind of gromets around the wires and drill air flow holes that are small enough that wasps can't get in.
jsasker007
Active Member
Maybe some type of screen material over the holes so it still vents but stops entry of those bugs. I had something packing dirt on my camera lens a couple of years ago. Also had a bear turn my camera on about a 45 degree angle which really made it hard to look at the pictures that were taken. One of the pictures was an extreme close up of the bears nose. Seems like there's always something.
Drycreek
Well-Known Member
Bear nose would be different, I just get coon noses and whiskers.
Jerry-B-WI
New Member
Spray your boxes with Bifenthrin. You won't have anymore of any bugs building nests. I use it in my box blinds, outhouse, and around all doors. No more spiders, hornets or wasps.
yoderjac
Well-Known Member
I regularly spray with permethrin, but over time it wears off and I need to retreat. I do that with all my box blinds as well. I'm looking for a more permanent solution for the battery boxes. I think gromets around the wires and small vent holes should do the trick. Does Bifenthrin last any longer than permethrin?
Drycreek
Well-Known Member
Get some cattle ear tags that repel flies from Tractor Supply or a feed store. I put them in my blinds that aren’t insect proof. One in your camera box would work, but I put two in my blinds. Handle them with gloves on.
Jerry-B-WI
New Member
I usually spray in May while I'm spraying for tent caterpillars. Seems to last all season.
yoderjac
Well-Known Member
That's an idea!
yoderjac
Well-Known Member
That is about the same as the permethrin I've been using.
Mennoniteman
Well-Known Member
Bifenthrin and permethrin are both synthetic pyrethroid insecticides, but bifentrin has a longer residual due to its higher stability in the environment. Bifenthrin requires less frequent applications for continuous pest control compared to permethrin. Both are effective against most insects, but bifenthrin is usually preferred for outdoor applications because of soil stability and UV resistance.
yoderjac
Well-Known Member
Good to know!
