I live far away from my farm so my father does my planting and he has minimal farming experience. For about 4 to 5 years we have run mixes into the field to include, oat, pea, wheat, rye, brassica..... I knew my soil was likely all jacked from lack of lime so I ran buckwheat this summer and it grew well. Any reccomendations for what's next. I plan on liming and fertilizing but am I ok to run a fall style mix? Would u guys reccomend broadcasting into the buckwheat and cutting the bw or just cut and till it under then seed. Should I run something completely different ad far as seed type? Any advice is appreciated. I'm in southern ohio.
Fall planting ?
- Thread starter OHBB437
- Start date
MarkDarvin
Well-Known Member
What do you want to do after this plot (fall annuals only, summer and fall annuals, switch to perennials, etc)?
What do you want out of it (big tonnage, late tonnage, most desired, easy to manage...)?
What equipment do you have?
What do you want out of it (big tonnage, late tonnage, most desired, easy to manage...)?
What equipment do you have?
X-farmerdan
Well-Known Member
You should do a soil test. Three are parts of Ohio where the soils are limestone derivatives. You many not need any pH boost. What does your father and his limited farming experience have to do with what to plant next? Why would you want to do something different than you have done in the past? Is it working, or not working?
I too have limited farming experience and that's why I'm asking for help. We have run fall only plots since we started planting. They work, we always have gotten good results. Guess my question is do I need to rotate something new in or as long as lime and fert have the soil where they need to be can I run same fall style grains and bulbs? Do I need to rotate clover in every so many years? We have tractor, bhog, tiller, usually use ATV tires to pack.. I've hunted only early November for past 10 years, this year I'll be in October 4 for a week. My goal is to have the highest desired draw I can get
Also last year I ran brassica into entire plot. Not sure if that's a soil builder or not. I've never had great growth with brassica in all the years we've put them in. Any reccomendations on what to do with the buckwheat? We dont have a rake, is it decent fall draw or does it need to get cut?
MarkDarvin
Well-Known Member
Clover, oats, and wheat. That early, I think clover would be a knock out. Put 300 lbs/ac of gypsum on it when you plant. I'd spread seed, drive down the buckwheat with your ATV and walk away.
What is gypsum used for, not familiar? Same purpose as lime? Do co ops usually sell it?
MarkDarvin
Well-Known Member
Sulfate sulfur (plant available right away). It's the flavor nutrient. Takes your clover from any clover to the best tasting clover. Calcium helps too. A good garden center will have it. Most don't. If you can't find it, call a golf course and see if you can buy some from them.
Would u do thos on top of the required lime or substitute it for lime?
Laker
Active Member
In addition to the lime. Gypsum won't raise the PH. Do both.
Laker
Active Member
Gypsum is about the same size as pell lime. I got it from Menards. It'll spread just fine. I spread it with a plastic spreader I drag behind the ATV. My soil test indicated 2ppm of sulfur, which is clearly super low. I haven't tested since I spread the gypsum. So, honestly, I don't know what it's done. But, it has to be somewhat higher at least. I put down 250LBS/acre. Could do more. It is also supposed to help improve clay soil like mine. I'll probably do another 250/acre again next year, at the same time I'm pouring on the lime in my never ending quest for a reasonable PH.
MarkDarvin
Well-Known Member
Gypsum is about 14% sulfate sulfur. A 300 pound rate will give you 42 lbs or 21 ppm per acre. 20 ppm is adequate for most anything as far as sulfate goes in our world.
Drycreek
Well-Known Member
Most of my plots are fairly neutral now, pending additional soil tests on a couple that I limed in March. Not knowing how much sulfur to add is what has me stumped right now. I can see that all my plots test differently as to fert needed, etc., so would you just add sulfur at the 300 lb. per acre as in Mark’s post, or maybe start at a lower rate ?
