Fall Food Plot-HELP

ZachI131

New Member
After opening up a large area on a hillside I planted Oats and Buckwheat in the spring without much luck.

I'm looking to put a fall food plot in and have a couple questions:

  • What is the maximum seeding rate of fertilizer/lime per acre?
  • What would you recommend for a quickly germinating crop?
  • Being on a hillside would a drum aerator be the best and then track in with skid steer?
 
I'm looking to put a fall food plot in and have a couple questions:
  • What is the maximum seeding rate of fertilizer/lime per acre?
  • What would you recommend for a quickly germinating crop?
  • Being on a hillside would a drum aerator be the best and then track in with skid steer?

Have you had a soil test yet? Without one you can only quess at your pH (which drives your lime requirements) and the status of soil fertility. In the absence of a test you can try 200-250 of 13-13-13 per acre at planting which should give you enough nitrogen to get it growing and then a supplemental shot of N 45-60 days later. But get a soil test!!!

For a new fall plot I would recommend rye (not rye grass) as your base; it germinates quickly, is fairly tolerant of poor soil and will not only give you a nice grass patch to hunt over but will put you on the road to building organic matter. I generally use rye and wheat at 50# each per acre and add brassicas and clover for a little diversity.

I'm a flatlander so I can't comment about planting on a hillside. If you have enough growth to create a good layer of thatch you can try throw-n-mow method (lots of good info on this site.) I've never heard of using a drum aerator at planting but it would probably make a a decent cultipacker and help with seed-soil contact.
 
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Have you had a soil test yet? Without one you can only quess at your pH (which drives your lime requirements) and the status of soil fertility. In the absence of a test you can try 200-250 of 13-13-13 per acre at planting which should give you enough nitrogen to get it growing and then a supplemental shot of N 45-60 days later. But get a soil test!!!

For a new fall plot I would recommend rye (not rye grass) as your base; it germinates quickly, is fairly intolerant of poor soil and will not only give you a nice grass patch to hunt over but will put you on the road to building organic matter. I generally use rye and wheat at 50# each per acre and add brassicas and clover for a little diversity.

I'm a flatlander so I can't comment about planting on a hillside. If you have enough growth to create a good layer of thatch you can try throw-n-mow method (lots of good info on this site.) I've never heard of using a drum aerator at planting but it would probably make a a decent cultipacker and help with seed-soil contact.
I think Brian was a victim of spell check. Winter rye is pretty tolerant of poor soil, that’s part of what makes it a great choice.
 
I'm not a big fan of the mixes that combine small seeds like clover with large seeds- unless you're using a hand spreader the small seeds all go to the bottom of the hopper and all of the clover ends up in the part of the field you planted first! And the mixes are usually more expensive to boot. I noticed that the Southern States mix has alfalfa, which is not going to produce on new ground - its a difficult crop in the South under the best of circumstances!

Here's a basic 'meat and potatoes' recipe from Mississippi Wildlife and Fisheries that should do well in your area:

https://www.mdwfp.com/wildlife-hunting/deer-program/food-plots/cool-season-food-plots.aspx .

I substitute rye for oats and plant it with wheat at about 50# of each/100# total per acre (the recommended 50-60# of small grains wouldn't stand up to my browsing pressure). Rye and wheat come in 50# bags and you can generally purchase crimson and arrowleaf clover seed by the pound at the feed store. I also add brassicas (2# of forage rape per acre) but its going to increase the amount of nitrogen you need to put down.

Feel free to keep asking questions - I've only been active with food plots for about 5 years ago but there are other posters on here who are a wealth of knowledge and welcome to help.
 
Where can I get winter rye?

How much lime should I apply in combination with fertilizer and seed?

Any issue with my idea of plugging the soil, raking and then compacting?
 
Where can I get winter rye?

How much lime should I apply in combination with fertilizer and seed?

Any issue with my idea of plugging the soil, raking and then compacting?

When I started getting serious about plots I ordered from welterseed.com and handcockseed.com. But when you’re buying 50# bags shipping is a killer. I got lucky and found a place on the my way to my property that sells grazing supplies to farmers which includes a lot of seeds I’ve used for my plots, including rye. Look for farm co-ops in your area and stop buy or call them to see if they sell rye and if they don’t I bet they can tell you who does. I’ve found the folks at these co-ops and ag businesses to be very helpful. The coop can probably also do soil tests.
 
As stated above you need a soil test. A good feed & seed is your friend. I don't know how large your field is but a lot of feed & seeds around will apply your lime for a small price. A new food plot will need an amazing amount of lime.
 
I am planning on putting down the following mix next weekend. Any issues? This is on a hillside so the quicker growing the better
  • Oats 25-30 lbs per acre
  • Wheat 25-30 lbs per acre
  • Crimson clover 10-12 lbs per acre
  • Arrowleaf clover 4-5 lbs per acre
  • 13-13-13 Fertilizer 200 lb per acre
  • Ag Lime 2,000 lb per acre
 
I am planning on putting down the following mix next weekend. Any issues? This is on a hillside so the quicker growing the better
  • Oats 25-30 lbs per acre
  • Wheat 25-30 lbs per acre
  • Crimson clover 10-12 lbs per acre
  • Arrowleaf clover 4-5 lbs per acre
  • 13-13-13 Fertilizer 200 lb per acre
  • Ag Lime 2,000 lb per acre
Looks good. If anything increase the wheat/ oats rate a little, at least 50 lb each.
 
Also remember that hillsides are problematic with moisture at times. A hill can really dry out causing plot failure. Plant plots for seasons that have good moisture.
 
Buckly,
Can you please provide a little more information? I've measured off one plot at one acre and the other at two acres.

I purchased the drum aerator and looking at possibly adding winter peas as well.
 
How steep of a slope are you thinking? 10 percent grade? That would be a 10 foot drop in 100'. Farming hillsides can be challenging, espesially, erosion can be a big problem if any tillage is done. I try to keep some type of crop like clover continuously growing on our steeper slopes. And I don't try to grow any plots on slopes that are too steep to be comfortable mowing the side slope horizontally.
 
I would anticipate a 20% slope in the steeper section. I don't plan to till but to use a drum plugger to minimize erosion issues.
 
I visited the property this evening to start aerating.

Looks like the oats are 1-2 feet with weeds throughout.

Any issue with aerating, spreading seed and then mowing? Should I spray at all?

Soil is a little more rocky than I remember. Should I adjust the mix at all to accommodate?
 
I spoke with my local supplier and I know its not recommended to do mixes but wanted to double check the below.

  • 30% rye
  • 25% winter peas
  • 25% oats
  • 8% buckwheat
  • 3% rape
  • 3% turnip
  • 1.5% white clover
  • 1.5% crimson
Would this be a mistake if I added some additional red/ladino clover to the mix?
 
Looks like you have room for another 3% at a glimpse. Mix doesn't look too bad---I prefer foodplots with as many different things as possible as long as they are compatible. With diversity you usually can have something growing for the deer at all times.
 
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