catscratch
Well-Known Member
Any of you guys fence off a section of your rye or wheat to open up midwinter? I've often wondered if a patch that hadn't been eaten short already would be preferred this time of yr...
A farmer about 6 miles from here plants WR and WW in a small field in front of his house next to a convenience store with lots of houses around so the deer don’t use it due to all the activity hence it grows like it would if their were no deer. He usually turns his calves in on it starting in January about 1 afternoon a week until about March for the greens I suppose...Any of you guys fence off a section of your rye or wheat to open up midwinter? I've often wondered if a patch that hadn't been eaten short already would be preferred this time of yr...
My dad run cattle on his dove/deer field from January through March. 30% crude protein cuts late winter feed bills.A farmer about 6 miles from here plants WR and WW in a small field in front of his house next to a convenience store with lots of houses around so the deer don’t use it due to all the activity hence it grows like it would if their were no deer. He usually turns his calves in on it starting in January about 1 afternoon a week until about March for the greens I suppose...
Just curious if "fresh" cereals would be a preferred winter food source. My current plots are a mix of awnless wheat, rye, oats, alfalfa, chicory, and 4 varieties of clover. The plots are currently keeping up with use and are a couple of inches tall. I don't hunt my plots so that isn't a consideration. I've never heard of anyone doing the exclusion fence with these plants (beans yes, cereals no), wonder if a person might see a difference in use by stockpiling.Cereal rye is my standby for winter deer food, so I put out enough of acres that I don't need fencing, and it really does not take a very big area for rye to outgrow deer grazing, an acre of rye will feed a lot of deer for most of the winter. From a distance my rye looks so short you'll think there's not much there anymore, but when you get a close up look it's several inches tall, and the deer are working it every day. The deer have nothing to do all day except eat, they have the time available needed to fill their stomachs on rye that's only 2" tall. Winter rye in cold climates is not going to have a lot of tonnage, fenced or not, but it's still there, available for grazing. Rye grows in the winter if temperatures go above 40 degrees, in a lot of winters in zone 6b we see enough of growth to offset most of the deer grazing pressure, it consistently maintains several inches of green above the soil.
I have mixed feelings about fencing. For someone without much land it's a good tool to preserve a small plot for the first day of hunting season. But for larger properties I'd rather adapt my program and have our wildlife in a natural unfenced setting. Planting some different plots such as oats, rye, brassica, chicory and clover that can handle heavy grazing is one solution to avoiding fencing, and maintaining reasonable DPSM population controls would be another.
If grain is planted too early and starts getting too tough for deer grazing a timely mowing fixes that problem very easily. The option of mowing to rejuvenate stemmy grains allows me to get my fall plot cereal grains out early as insurance against drought, and getting winter rye out early allows it to develop a bigger root system which makes for better winter growth. Mowing rye in mid September to control it is not uncommon for me.Rye and wheat do better if grazed by deer and kept from getting “stemmy”. So, my feeling is that it’s best to keep under continuous grazing so “fresh” growth is always present.
Anytthing green is trump for winter deer food, and rye is the only green thing in the fields in PA during the winter.Just curious if "fresh" cereals would be a preferred winter food source. My current plots are a mix of awnless wheat, rye, oats, alfalfa, chicory, and 4 varieties of clover. The plots are currently keeping up with use and are a couple of inches tall. I don't hunt my plots so that isn't a consideration. I've never heard of anyone doing the exclusion fence with these plants (beans yes, cereals no), wonder if a person might see a difference in use by stockpiling.
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If grain is planted too early and starts getting too tough for deer grazing a timely mowing fixes that problem very easily. The option of mowing to rejuvenate stemmy grains allows me to get my fall plot cereal grains out early as insurance against drought, and getting winter rye out early allows it to develop a bigger root system which makes for better winter growth. Mowing rye in mid September to control it is not uncommon for me.
Anytthing green is trump for winter deer food, and rye is the only green thing in the fields in PA during the winter.
Zone 6b, I plant from early August to Labor day, anytime after the mid-summer heat is over. The rye I plant early looks the best in midwinter. I plant brassicas in the same time frame, earlier than most guys. I plant turnips and radishes in mid June some years, these fields last much better in cold weather.When do you typically plant your rye?
I've already added some acreage this winter, and I use bale grazing often to seed some stuff in the pastures (it's so easy it hard not to do it). Adding more wheat wouldn't be a problem as I have the space to add as much as I could possibly want. But, with the plots I already have it's still a couple of inches tall so it's isn't exactly not enough. My curiosity factor lies with ungrazed vs grazed preference mid winter. You can take a herd of cattle that is on good grass and open the gate for a rotation and they will kick/hop/run to the new pasture with glee in their eyes... even though it's basically the same thing you are taking them off of.I've planted rye as early as 90 days before first frost. That was the first year I grew barley/cowpeas/buckwheat as a spring blend. My cowpeas and buckwheat were dealt with quickly by the deer and turkey. I just had barley left, and it was fully headed out. I didn't want it to set viable seed, so I threw my rye into the standing barley and bush hogged it down (July 1st). The rye got to maybe 8 or 10" by the time frost rolled around. It stayed green and palatable all the way to when it got buried in snow. That was the only food I had left come November, and the deer were in it every single sit.
Any chance for adding acres Cat? Maybe some bale grazing to create some openings?
Have you thought about mixing in some spring wheat? I wonder if that wouldn't give you a tonnage boost @ a 20% rate or so. I know you've mentioned oats don't really get up and going for ya. (Might even throw some forage barley in the mix for fall).I've already added some acreage this winter, and I use bale grazing often to seed some stuff in the pastures (it's so easy it hard not to do it). Adding more wheat wouldn't be a problem as I have the space to add as much as I could possibly want. But, with the plots I already have it's still a couple of inches tall so it's isn't exactly not enough. My curiosity factor lies with ungrazed vs grazed preference mid winter. You can take a herd of cattle that is on good grass and open the gate for a rotation and they will kick/hop/run to the new pasture with glee in their eyes... even though it's basically the same thing you are taking them off of.
There you go with those crazy ideas again. Next thing I know you'll be telling me I need to add gypsum and boron to my clovers to get them more palatable, or maybe I should have more diverse plots, or that I should spend some time focusing on native plants and making them more appealing. I don't know... maybe need to give some of these things a better try.Have you thought about mixing in some spring wheat? I wonder if that wouldn't give you a tonnage boost @ a 20% rate or so. I know you've mentioned oats don't really get up and going for ya. (Might even throw some forage barley in the mix for fall).![]()
We're peeling back a very large onion.There you go with those crazy ideas again. Next thing I know you'll be telling me I need to add gypsum and boron to my clovers to get them more palatable, or maybe I should have more diverse plots, or that I should spend some time focusing on native plants and making them more appealing. I don't know... maybe need to give some of these things a better try.![]()
No clue about how often it would need mowed. Figure I can watch and gauge usage as I go.How early are you considering planting Cat? I would think an earlier planting could really benefit the new clover too, IF the weather cooperated. I wonder how often it would need to be mowed, to keep it from getting unpalatable later.