Brassica Problem

[Twolftg]

I asked a question about this on the facebook group page and got a few responses, one popular opinion seems to me a fungus of some type, any other ideas? This brassica plot was planted with no soil test, in a feild that has been planted for around 7 years with probably a couple 1 year breaks where there was little to no brassicas. If it is a fungus how long off do I need to take, and what other crop can i plant to have something edible in november in norther MN? Too small for beans or corn.

 

[Crimson n' Camo]

You need to pull a soil sample to know what to do....Even if it is some kind of fungus, the root cause is likely stemming from some type of soil issues. I would probably think it's exhibiting stress from some type of imbalance.

 

[Twolftg]

You need to pull a soil sample to know what to do....Even if it is some kind of fungus, the root cause is likely stemming from some type of soil issues. I would probably think it's exhibiting stress from some type of imbalance.

I wanted to do a test but I was helping a friend and he already spread lime and some tiple 19.

 

[smsmith]

I asked on the facebook page, but never got a response so I pulled my question....
I'll ask again here...do the leaves have small holes in them? It looks like possible flea beetle damage. The other thing that was mentioned on fb was possible fertilizer burn. If your buddy spread the triple 19 when the leaves were still wet/damp I'd bet its fertilizer burn.

 

[cutman]

I would think about pulling a couple plants and sending them to your local extension office. OR send pictures to your local office. I use Clemson for stuff like this and it's amazing what they can figure out.

 

[Twolftg]

I asked on the facebook page, but never got a response so I pulled my question....
I'll ask again here...do the leaves have small holes in them? It looks like possible flea beetle damage. The other thing that was mentioned on fb was possible fertilizer burn. If your buddy spread the triple 19 when the leaves were still wet/damp I'd bet its fertilizer burn.

He spread before we planted the seed, as for the holes I don't think there are any more than an average leaf would be eaten by bugs.

 

[smsmith]

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...s&qpvt=flea+beetle+damage+brassicas&FORM=IGRE

 

[Twolftg]

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...s&qpvt=flea+beetle+damage+brassicas&FORM=IGRE

definitely nothing like that.

 

[JFH]

N burn perhaps? Easy to do with urea-based N.

Another thought... are you in sandy soil? Sulfur deficiency is common in sandy soil and results in smaller leaves, cupped leaves, and discolored tips (purplish). Brassicas are big sulfur users.

Google "sulfur deficiency canola" to read more on the subject and view images. If you think it be it ammonium sulfate is cheap and works fast. Adds N too.


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[smsmith]

May want to Google "calcium deficiency brassica" too

Bottom line, its likely something to do with your soil and will require a soil test to nail it down. When you say northern MN, what general part of the state do you mean? MN is a big state.

 

[JFH]

Boron is also typically deficient in sandy soil. Easy to correct. Symptoms look a lot like yours:

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[Buck Sutherland]

Downy mildew?

 

[massey]

It looks like Alternaria. It's a pathogen that builds in the soil. Gotta put that field in rye for a year and you should get rid of it. Rotate your crops every two years if possible

 

[Twolftg]

It looks like Alternaria. It's a pathogen that builds in the soil. Gotta put that field in rye for a year and you should get rid of it. Rotate your crops every two years if possible

The plan is to definitely take a good couple year break after this. Unfortunately I don't think anything else we can plant in such a small plot will produce the tonnage and have the same attraction in november.

 

[Twolftg]

May want to Google "calcium deficiency brassica" too

Bottom line, its likely something to do with your soil and will require a soil test to nail it down. When you say northern MN, what general part of the state do you mean? MN is a big state.

Unfortunately the soil test option couldn't happen by the time I got involved. This particular plot is near Hinckley.

 

[Twolftg]

Alot of great advice guys, I will look into it all. I do have a soil test from a few hundred yards away I did just this year. Probably not the best because the soil test is from a first year planted area but it does show me low in Sulfur as well as a soil texture of sand (JFH).

 

[Tater]

Looks like possibly downy mildew damage

 

[Buckly]

The plan is to definitely take a good couple year break after this. Unfortunately I don't think anything else we can plant in such a small plot will produce the tonnage and have the same attraction in november.

Rye and Crimson clover will hold up well but, sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. Rotate out for a while and a dozer helps with making larger plots.

 

[Smallplot]

The sulfur deficiency is a good point. When trying to diagnose problems the only way to tell for sure is a plant tissue test like Cutman described. Results along with a recent soil test will aid in deciding any steps to correct. Most soil tests done by companies like Whitetail Institute and Mossy Oak will not give surfer, or micro nutrients but tend to give PH, P, and K, along with recommendations for N.

Is this the first year for brassica to be planted there? If not how many years in a row has it been planted.

How has your rainfall been? If sandy soil you might still have moisture issues with decent rains. Has anyone sprayed this plot with anything recently? If so what was used?

 

[Twolftg]

The sulfur deficiency is a good point. When trying to diagnose problems the only way to tell for sure is a plant tissue test like Cutman described. Results along with a recent soil test will aid in deciding any steps to correct. Most soil tests done by companies like Whitetail Institute and Mossy Oak will not give surfer, or micro nutrients but tend to give PH, P, and K, along with recommendations for N.

Is this the first year for brassica to be planted there? If not how many years in a row has it been planted.

How has your rainfall been? If sandy soil you might still have moisture issues with decent rains. Has anyone sprayed this plot with anything recently? If so what was used?

The co-op I use does give me sulfur recommendations, I suppose I could take one and just ignore the ph and npk stuff. Its not the first year, we had sone there last year but not nearly as many plants. I don't think it is moisture related I think there has been pretty consistent rains. Thanks for all the ideas guys.