Will Build a Walk in Cooler for Nuts & DCO Growing

The side wall of the walk-in cooler gets six boards - (1) at 1/2 inch and (5) at 3/4 inch
The previous photo shows four in place.

The photo below shows the 2 board sandwich that are standing on their narrow edge (see the red arrow). The first four boards are shown with the blue arrow.
Two Board Sandwich Last 2.jpg

The two boards are shown pulled out in the photo. In the final completion of the wall they are slide in and lined up with the four boards. It is impossible to tape in the narrow opening. All boards were taped first and then slide in place second.
6 Boards on Block Wall.jpg

The photo above shows the six boards on the block wall side. The red arrow indicates the 1/2 inch board and the five blue lines indicate each of the 3/4 boards. This wall has an insulation value of 23.2 R.

The wall is complete for now. Later I will add some braces off the block wall to hold the Styrofoam sandwich to the frame.
Update for Tuesday, November 22nd

I worked on the wall for the front door, cased the door opening and constructed the door and hung it. The front door is not covered yet. The door casing will have to be insulated with spray Styrofoam to prevent loss of cold air.

Door Cased & N Place.jpg

The case is 5/4 pressure treated that is used for patio decks.
I used good brackets on the door casing. The photo below shows the top left corner of the door casing.

Bracket on Door Casing.jpg

You can see the bracket in this photo as well as the photo in the previous post.
I scrambled around and got the door frame constructed and hung it in the opening. Purchased some narrow hinges for this very purpose.

Door Hung Not Covered.jpg

I will use a can of spray Styrofoam to insulated the space between the casing and the insulation. Next task will be to cover the door with insulation board. When the door is finished I will hang strips of plastic at the top to extend to the floor to reduce the loss of cold air when the door is opened. This door is narrow on purpose.

I build the opening first and then build the door to fit the opening. I use popsicle sticks as my spacers to keep the door tight to the opening.

The insulation will be placed on the inside of the door - not the outside.
Got the door covered and am able to open it and close it. We do have a tight fit which will help maintain our low temperatures.

Door Covered Inside View.jpg

This is the view from inside the cooler. The back wall has not been finished yet due to the window unit not being in stock.
This photo shows the outside view of the door.

Outside View of the Door.jpg

I have a few details to complete on this door installation. At this point the hard part has been accomplished.

Thanks for reading this thread.
Well, if I catch any more hogs I know where I can hang the quarters!! Good job Wayne, you are putting it together!
Big PowerBall winnings in Portland. ...maybe wpbdeer struck it rich.
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My hometown has a factory with plenty of new millionaires. Each person's take home is in the 10 to 12 million range. I know a few of them.

Going to be some new jobs openings at Tennessee Stamping in Portland, TN. You want to come work down here again.

I have been to Ohio Deer Hunting and just got home. No tags filled yet.

Lowes has to order my air conditioner for the walk in cooler. I purchased a 10,000 BTU air conditioner made by GE.

It has three fan speeds, digital controls, and automatic reset if power is interrupted. It is oversized for the 4 by 6 walk in, but this was my intent to have quick recovery time without taxing the unit.

The photo below shows the box information.
Air Conditioner Specs 10,000 BTU.jpg

The model is an AEM10AV. Rated for an 18' by 22' room but that is with a higher temperature setting. My goal is 34 / 35 degrees.
I built a tight frame for the air conditioner. I used 2 by 2 with a piece of 5/4 pressure treated for the AC to sit on.

This photo shows the framing from the inside looking toward the unit.

AC Set in Frame.jpg

The unit has the front cover removed in this photo.
I will begin covering the back wall with insulation board. Also, it is time to order the cool bot.

Progress is being made slowly but surely. :rolleyes:

Thanks for reading this thread.
I am really enjoying the thread, Wayne. While I don't see myself building anything like this for quite some time, if ever, I CAN tell you this: If you have chestnuts that have been cold-treated and are just about ready to pop a radicle, 15 months from now, I would be willing to pay a premium to have those shipped just in time to plant. You may be onto a better way to help folks grow their own chestnuts, as well as get your DCO's through winter properly.
Update December 5, 2016

Got the 1/2 inch insulation board on the back wall. The first boards are important for two reasons: air gaps matter and we turn the gray insulation side inward for improved light management inside the cooler.

This photo shows the text on the 1/2 insulation board facing outward. I have taped some joints with white duct tape.

Half Inch Insulation on AC Wall.jpg

The back wall is 48 inches wide. You can see the edge of the side wall insulation sticking past the first board. When all insulation boards are in place they will be very close to even.

I have a chicken lite with a reflector on this work area - that creates bright spots in the photo.

I have good tilt on the air conditioner unit so water will not accumulate inside the walk in cooler.
AC Wall with Silver Side Showing.jpg

This is air conditioner wall with the silver side of the insulation board showing. You can see some white light sneaking in on the bottom of the photo. This will be eliminated with spray foam insulation and the addition 3/4 inch insulation boards onto the back wall.

At this point no electrical wiring has been put in place. That will be one of the last task completed in this project.
Outside back wall is completed. Glad to have the insulation completed.

AC Wall Insulation Installed.jpg

I have one 2 by 2 as support for the air conditioner. The shadow above the top of the air conditioner is due to a work light I used in this area. The light was necessary to obtain accurate measurements.

I will add some 3/4 by 3 trim to hold the insulation boards snug along the edges. It turned out well and I would approach it differently if I had to build a second one. Live and learn!

Thanks for reading this thread.
Two suggestions, first, be prepared for the condensation that will come from the back of the air conditioner. We just put a 5 gallon bucket under ours and drain outside as needed. Also, I suggest using an LED or similar light bulb inside the room, as you will want something that does not put off any heat or you will be fighting against your air conditioner.

I plan on drilling a hole in the air conditioner to drain the water into a five gallon bucket. I will use that water for my seedlings.

Thanks I will put the LED light advice to good use. I am using 10,000 BTUs in a 4 by 6 feet walk in so I am over sized on cooling but I will install an LED. Appreciate your guidance. ;)

No problem. The water should already have a drain exit, ours did at least. Just run it for a while and see where it comes out. Also, with the low head room, the LED makes it nice when you accidentally touch the bulb and don't burn yourself!