Thoughts on building a tree nursery

Looking forward to your progress - especially with your "jug/cages". I have considered doing something very similar with a larger jug, but have not gotten around to it. My biggest concern with jugs like that is them turning into bee hives or the tree not getting the air circulation it needs to stay healthy......that is why my "germination cages" are small wire cages to help prevent that from happening. My "plan" is to switch the survivors over to tree tubes this spring.
 
This may or may not be worth your while...but you may want to reach out to our Division of Forestry and see how our State Nursery grows their trees? I know they offer several species of oaks every year.....maybe they would be willing to share or show you how they do their thing. May give you some insight or tips on your own growing bed as well. I would think with the size that they operate they would be using as simplified a system as possible.....just guessing. I know they have nurseries in Vallonia (Jackson County) and Medaryville (Pulaski county).

http://www.in.gov/dnr/forestry/3606.htm
 
Good thought. Actually, the guy who planted the seed of the whole tree nursery idea is a Purdue biology guy that I've known since my FFA days in high school. He did forestry work at the university back in the '80's, and described their beds as trenches filled with straw. I think I'll reach out to him via Facebook and renew the conversation. I'm also planning to order and pick up bareroot seedlings from the Medaryville nursery next spring, as its only about a 90 minute drive for me. Maybe I can arrange a little tour when I'm there.
 
I also walked our property with a forester from the DNR's Division of Forestry yesterday, as I'm interested in enrolling my plot into the classified wild lands program. We discussed some options for tree plantings, as well as making some shrub thickets in linear rows following contours in the NWSG stand that I started this year. I showed her my seed starting bed, and she seemed to think that I was on the right track.
 
I also walked our property with a forester from the DNR's Division of Forestry yesterday, as I'm interested in enrolling my plot into the classified wild lands program. We discussed some options for tree plantings, as well as making some shrub thickets in linear rows following contours in the NWSG stand that I started this year. I showed her my seed starting bed, and she seemed to think that I was on the right track.
Sounds like you have been doing some digging and looking into things, which is good....real good. Only program I am in is CRP. I have not looked strongly into the certified programs thru the DNR.....although I like the reduced property tax rate.....but the penalties can be pretty steep if it comes to that.
 
I've tried just about every method to grow Oak and chestnut seedlings over the last 5 years or so and I'm convinced that the best way for areas where it get 90+ for an extended period of time during the summer is to direct seed and water generously at least once a week during July and August if you do not receive rain. A strong and healthy tap root is crucial for these trees. Methods that allow the tap root to be air pruned or cut off from transplanting is hit or miss at best in this type of climate.

Also, do not bite off more than you can chew. That is, do not plant 300 seedlings expecting to be able to water them all. Either select a manageable amount or expect whatever you can't water in a timely fashion to die. If they somehow make it that's a bonus. Just speaking from experience. However, I still experiment with growing trees at the house but on a limited scale.


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Im starting to feel the same way

I have 6 grafted persimmons and 6 allegheney chinkapins in 3 gal root pouch in backyard for transplant in fall

Hopefully, the larger root mass will convey a survival advantage

Transplanting any container < 1 gal in size is doomed to failure without supplemental water here.

"Respect,don't resect" taproots!!!!!!

bill
 
I feel for you guys in dry climates. We had a severe drought here in 2012, but were able to get enough rain to make a decent soybean yield, and with prices around $13 per bushel, ended up with a good check at the end. I'm fortunate to live in a pretty darn good area as far as rainfall is concerned, few days above 90, and few days below 0. I don't think I would even bother if I had to water trees.


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I feel for you guys in dry climates. We had a severe drought here in 2012, but were able to get enough rain to make a decent soybean yield, and with prices around $13 per bushel, ended up with a good check at the end. I'm fortunate to live in a pretty darn good area as far as rainfall is concerned, few days above 90, and few days below 0. I don't think I would even bother if I had to water trees.


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Heck, 90 to zero.....we can get that from one day to the next with the way the weather can change in this state! Monsoon one month drought the next isn't out of the norm as well! That is one constant in IN - the weather.....if you don't like it, don't worry.....it'll change!

You know if you have good results with your nursery......I'm gonna HAVE to build one myself!!!:D
 
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I knocked together a lid for the bed, two layers of chicken wire slightly offset to make the openings pretty small. I'm anticipating having all that leaf mold collapse a little bit, but I think I will add another 6 inches or so to the height of the lid so I don't have to worry about seedlings hitting the wire.i'm anticipating the possibility of having to transplant the white oak seedlings yet this fall – good thing I don't have anything better to do!


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Good luck with your endeavor. I bush hogged around some 12 ft plus trees yesterday that were acorns in my greenhouse in 2012. Satisfying! Not all are that tall but several are
 
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29 sinkers versus 3 floaters. Not a bad ratio! The white oak tree that hangs over my clover plot started dropping acorns last week, and they're coming fast now. Glad the does left me a few.



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Got a pleasant surprise this morning- I visited my sister, who lives in a wooded subdivision a few miles away. While checking her wooded acreage I found a Bur Oak just starting to shed acorns. Also found a Chinquapin about 50' away that hasn't started dropping yet.
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On another thread I mentioned the size of one of the SWO trees on the farm that I'm collecting acorns from. Here's a picture of it, the shiny object in the center is my folding razor blade knife, for scale.
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KD - I have had even better luck with "sinkers" if you can get them right off the tree. That is pretty much the only way I collect them now for growing. I had way to many "floaters" when collecting off the ground. Sounds like your getting some different oaks to grow as well. Are you planting the whites oaks right away or putting them into the fridge?
 
KD - I have had even better luck with "sinkers" if you can get them right off the tree. That is pretty much the only way I collect them now for growing. I had way to many "floaters" when collecting off the ground. Sounds like your getting some different oaks to grow as well. Are you planting the whites oaks right away or putting them into the fridge?

The whites I'm gathering are about 200 yards from the house, and I'm getting some that have started to sprout a radical already. Some I'm planting directly, some in the nursery, and I have about 40 in the fridge. With all the rain this week, I'm expecting more sprouting and planting, and it looks like I'll be making some cages this weekend. My bed has both red and white acorns in it, so I have some decisions to make about when I move seedlings out.


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Here's the large and small, side by side- my sister's chinquapin oak started dropping, alongside a bur oak- locally my largest white oak acorns next to the smallest.
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I"m anticipating the possibility of having to transplant the white oak seedlings yet this fall – good thing I don't have anything better to do!"

I doubt you will have any/many to transplant this fall; it's been my experience that direct seeding oak acorns in the fall results in only tap root growth until late next spring (often not until late May or early June in zone 6. Why only "roots and no shoots"? Probably natures way of ensuring survival since new growth in late Oct. early Nov. would have little time to harden off and get hammered by freezing weather. The good news is you'll have dandy tap roots on those upstarts next spring. Good luck!


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So, Oakseeds, would you recommend that I transplant these young seedlings at a particular size/stage? I'd like to minimize stress, but also get them into their permanent home while the spring rains are still reliable.
 
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