Started building an elevated Box blind and need some advice on height vs load

CTM1

Active Member
I purchased the Summit Elevator Blind brackets with the 8 degree angle and they should be here Wed.
The platform is 8'x6' and I built it out of PT 2x6's with PT 3/4 plywood for the floor.
I picked up (4) 4"x4"x16" PT posts.

Any concern going 16' with the 8 degree angle. Will the 4x4's be strong enough to support the load of the blind at that angle. The blind will itself will be made out of standard 2x4's, cheap sliding windows and plywood roof covered with shingles or roll roofing.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
 
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I purchased the Summit Elevator Blind brackets with the 8 degree angle and they should be here Wed.
The platform is 8'x6' and I built it out of PT 2x6's with PT 3/4 plywood for the floor.
I picked up (4) 4"x4"x16" PT posts.

Any concern going 16' with the 8 degree angle. Will the 4x4's be strong enough to support the load of the blind at that angle. The blind will itself will be made out of standard 2x4's, cheap sliding windows and plywood roof covered with shingles or roll roofing.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
16' ? You do remember your luck right ? :)
 
Be careful,i saw a post awhile back that they had issues cracking the post when trying to raise it.Mine is only about 9 feet and I thought that was plent high.I also set one post in center on north and south side in cement to keep it from moving.My one that is only 6 ft tall blew over twice before i anchored it down
 
I have been watching a bunch of YouTube vids to see how people have been raising them. A few did not go so well, so I think I will build the
wall sections and then assemble them once the platform is up and level. I am going to use a cable tie down system.
 
the one i've got i done the same thing, got the platform up then raised the walls and roof up. roof was the hardest thing to put up. to keep mine from tipping over if you take a long drill bit and drill at an angle the the 4x4 post inward you can take and put rebar down through the hole in all four corners and it should not tip over. been had one installed like this about 8 years.
 
The higher up you put them, the harder it is to raise them and you'll need to make sure its well in place for windy days
 
I have been watching a bunch of YouTube vids to see how people have been raising them. A few did not go so well, so I think I will build the
wall sections and then assemble them once the platform is up and level. I am going to use a cable tie down system.

Assembling the platform and then raising the walls and roof is the only way to do it. We have built and raised probably a dozen over the years and that is by far the easier way to get one up. The cable tie down has kept all of ours from blowing over also. This was my first and has been up 8 years. It was built in my garage, disassembled and went up platform, then walls and then the roof. Get four guys and a ladder or two and it is no problem.

 
My desire to go this high stems from the fact that the blind will be placed at the bottom of my largest plot
and it has a pretty good slope. I also have to contend with getting high enough to see over a number of hawthorn trees.

Interesting tip about driving the rebar in at an angle through the posts, might consider that in addition to the cable tie down.
Cross bracing is in the plans on all sides.

I have been looking at the TAFCO vinyl sliding windows that Home Depot sells. They are only left hand sliding windows so you lose
a lot of mobility vs the double sliders that DEER View sells. The ones from HD have a longer lead time which I was not aware of,
but the DEER View windows are only 11.5 in height which is not what I want.

? for anyone that has used these single pane windows, any issue with them fogging and freezing over from condensation from breathing?
I had that happen in a Turtle Blind while on a paid hunt to Ohio and it sucked to say the least.
 
Only issues we have had with sliders is frost on the outside on some mornings. No issues with fogging or condensation inside. We have a few Redneck blinds and the fogging/condensation on those windows drives me nuts.
 
I don't think the 16' height will be an issue with the brackets. I don't recall who posted it, but you have to erect the platform in the proper direction to put the bolts in shear and not tension or you can have issues. That does seem a bit much thought at 16'. I try to place all my box blinds in a location to use the natural terrain height to my advantage to minimize the additional height. Keep in mind the additional height raises your center of gravity and thus creates a higher chance for wind issues. I prefer to have my blinds up where I can get a steady wind direction and not down where the wind can be more affected buy terrain as well (I still think you have to play the wind in box blinds).

I also wouldn't be worried about shooting over some cover. I would look into cutting lanes thru is and use that cover to hide your access in and out of your blind.

Keep in mind that the higher you go the wider the foot print will be of this blind as well - that may or may not be a factor, just something to consider.

Good luck.
 
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