Ohio Farm Tours

Here is a video on how I am going to be testing Haney, vs. conventional vs. conventional. The goal is to see how these tests vary, on the same soil, with the same sample methods, etc.

I look forward to sharing my results!!

 
No-Till Garden UPDATE:

A high-level overview of some organic amendments I am going to try and report results on. Using these due to some transplant shock - we received some very cold temperatures in Ohio after planting and I believe that shocked some of my plants.

The Benefits of inter-seeding rows and mowing them off.

My explanation of a seed and how they are a conduit for nutrients and energy from soil to harvest be it human or animal consumption, after the formation of a plant. They have an inherent drive to GROW! Build Better Soil! Instagram @buildbettersoil

 

Really happy with the updates here on no crimper, so I mowed! For row cropping, might not be the best option but for wildlife pastures......hard to beat for the cost of using the bush hog in the barn! Build Better Soils!
 
Well, Boys, it is that time again! I wanted to share my rough draft of the mix I will use going into fall/winter.
I will most likely terminate the crop that is there now with herbicide.

I believe in spraying, let it dry, then seed. GLY is a chelating agent and can bind up macro and micronutrients. I am not concerned with the results on soil microbiology - as the science is VERY contradictory in its ability to bind up nutrients for a defined duration.
In some cases, I have heard fungi actually had a positive impact after GLY applications (mycorrhizae webinar via Green Cover). I would like to get away from herbicide, but I just don't have the means to at the moment. I am not pro or anti herbicide, I believe it is a GREAT tool in the box and should be used when needed but shouldn't be used frivolously.

All that to say, my suggestion would be to always let the spray dry before seeding. Because seed has endophytes (or should) on them, and GLY is a chelating agent, it seems to harm germination (seeds microbiome is far more sensitive than the entire soil microbiome, or so it seems via observational analysis). Now, if you have a drill or planter - this is not an issue. However, I have seen this first hand and had a buddy of mine do a side-by-side comparison of WR in a pot of soil - one sprayed, one just watered. The sprayed seed took FAR longer to germinate.

Below is my mix, the goal is to add N to eat up the C, build the soil, and create enough C-creating crops for next year's thatch! And so goes the cycle! Build better soil!

1. Crimson Clover (Dixie) - OMRI Inoculated
2. Red Clover (Medium Red) - OMRI Inoculated
3. Hairy Vetch (Purple Bounty) - Uncoated
4. Alfalfa (Common) - Inoculated
5. Fixation Balansa Clover -Nitro Coat OMRI
6. Berseem Clover (Frosty) - OMRI Coated
7. Cereal Rye (Elbon)
8. Winter Wheat (Gore Soft Red) - Beardless
9. Winter Triticale: SY TF 813
10. Winter Oats (Bob)
11. Purple Top Turnip: VNS
12. Smart Radish
13. Rapeseed (Trophy)
14. Buckwheat (Mancan)
15. Chicory (Endure)
16. Barley
17. Kale
 
You do have the kitchen sink somewhere in there don't you? lol. Interesting comment on spraying gly on to seed. I do that most times if I'm going to spray but haven't noticed change in seed germination. It may occur and I just over come it by the fact I up seed rates when doing T/M. I'll have to pay attention to see if I see that response. Personally I would stream line the number of varieties in that planting to be terminated the next year. Not sure couldn't accomplish the same results without the redundancy. But I do like, and use all those seeds at various times. I'm sure it will work good for you.
Hows the new addition?? You may have to start planting perenial plots with lack of time. Lol. Congrats and Good luck.
 
Well, Boys, it is that time again! I wanted to share my rough draft of the mix I will use going into fall/winter.
I will most likely terminate the crop that is there now with herbicide.

I believe in spraying, let it dry, then seed. GLY is a chelating agent and can bind up macro and micronutrients. I am not concerned with the results on soil microbiology - as the science is VERY contradictory in its ability to bind up nutrients for a defined duration.
In some cases, I have heard fungi actually had a positive impact after GLY applications (mycorrhizae webinar via Green Cover). I would like to get away from herbicide, but I just don't have the means to at the moment. I am not pro or anti herbicide, I believe it is a GREAT tool in the box and should be used when needed but shouldn't be used frivolously.

All that to say, my suggestion would be to always let the spray dry before seeding. Because seed has endophytes (or should) on them, and GLY is a chelating agent, it seems to harm germination (seeds microbiome is far more sensitive than the entire soil microbiome, or so it seems via observational analysis). Now, if you have a drill or planter - this is not an issue. However, I have seen this first hand and had a buddy of mine do a side-by-side comparison of WR in a pot of soil - one sprayed, one just watered. The sprayed seed took FAR longer to germinate.

Below is my mix, the goal is to add N to eat up the C, build the soil, and create enough C-creating crops for next year's thatch! And so goes the cycle! Build better soil!

1. Crimson Clover (Dixie) - OMRI Inoculated
2. Red Clover (Medium Red) - OMRI Inoculated
3. Hairy Vetch (Purple Bounty) - Uncoated
4. Alfalfa (Common) - Inoculated
5. Fixation Balansa Clover -Nitro Coat OMRI
6. Berseem Clover (Frosty) - OMRI Coated
7. Cereal Rye (Elbon)
8. Winter Wheat (Gore Soft Red) - Beardless
9. Winter Triticale: SY TF 813
10. Winter Oats (Bob)
11. Purple Top Turnip: VNS
12. Smart Radish
13. Rapeseed (Trophy)
14. Buckwheat (Mancan)
15. Chicory (Endure)
16. Barley
17. Kale
That's quite the impressive mix that you have there. When do you plan to plant this mixture? Looking forward to pictures.
 
That's quite the impressive mix that you have there. When do you plan to plant this mixture? Looking forward to pictures.

This mix is not final, so I may adjust.

I will plant end of July or early August. I know some might think that is early but it isn't for Ohio and with a broadcast "no till" method. what I have found is that this method works GREAT but there is a lag time between seed germination, that I might otherwise be accustomed to with a standard tillage method and/or if I had a drill (someday!!).

I planted a very similar mix last year, via the same method - no FERT added, I will try to upload some of those pics shortly.
 
You do have the kitchen sink somewhere in there don't you? lol. Interesting comment on spraying gly on to seed. I do that most times if I'm going to spray but haven't noticed change in seed germination. It may occur and I just over come it by the fact I up seed rates when doing T/M. I'll have to pay attention to see if I see that response. Personally I would stream line the number of varieties in that planting to be terminated the next year. Not sure couldn't accomplish the same results without the redundancy. But I do like, and use all those seeds at various times. I'm sure it will work good for you.
Hows the new addition?? You may have to start planting perenial plots with lack of time. Lol. Congrats and Good luck.

Thank you so much Doug! My little man is doing great, he already is dreaming about big bucks - I think!! HAHA

I also found the impact of gly directly on seeds to be interesting, although I don't have direct scientific proof to back this up, I can point folks to Dr. James White's research on the rhizophagey cycle - he discusses this and it is fascinating. This does not say we cannot grow crops without these microbes, but what nutritional value will they be? That is the question!

As for termination - that I am not concerned about. I am working hard to measure my termination success with a mower vs. herbicide. If I get a crimper, that will also be useful.

My largest goal here is to create a balanced mix with as many plant families and root structures as possible. The goal is not only to feed the deer but to create a robust and symbiotic relationship between both plants and soils microbiome. Diversity is king!!

PS - less time? I need more time at farm with liltte man, I am working to figure out how to upgrade tractor to one with a buddy seat!! Strap him in and show him the ropes!

o
 
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This year's re-growth! Due to having a baby recently, I just decided to let it go, after seeding buckwheat, medium red clover, and sunflowers into this field.
 
This is around October 15th - I was already tagged out so I sat in a box blind overlooking this field and snapped some pics.

I apologize for the picture being sideways.

image1.jpeg
 


Garden update:

1. How to plant tomatoes with a screwdriver

2. Using Mychorizzae fungi to innoculate my tomato seedlings

3. Thatch update, and how/why I can tell the garden is allow water to infiltrate


Build Better Soil!
 
Are we wasting money on fertilizer? Are we mis judging how successful we are solely based on an OM%?!

Testing is great but in my opinion we need to also focus on observations of the plant and soil aggregation

See below for more information:

 
New Video -
Quick gardening tip on how you can increase your direct seed success by inoculating the seed with fungi!
Build Better Soil!
 
New Video
Conventional Tests vs. Haney - are we overusing fertilizer, based on the variability of soil test results?
This was an absolute blast to put together and took a lot of time but I learned a LOT from this experiment and urge others to try the same!
Get outside, and Build Better Soil! Build Better Soil!

 
After several soil tests the how’s and why’s I’ve decided to use a fish hydrolysate fertilizer to help push my production to the next level without oxidizing synthetics.

 
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After several soil tests the how’s and why’s I’ve decided to use a fish hydrolosate fertilizer to help push my production to the next level without oxidizing synthetics.

(Spelled Hydrolysate) Fish hydrolysis; mixing chopped fish with water and other ingredients to break it down and dilute it for use as fertilizer. This is nothing new, and was used since the beginning of time.
The only issue that I have with this is that only a limited amount of farmers can use fish fertilizer without depleting a great natural resource. Our waters are already depleted of fish, and we already use a tremendous amount of resources in aquaculture to grow fish in enclosures for food. The catchphrase of today is BMP's, or "best management practices", which is a term used to describe the holistic approach to conserving resources while engaged in activities that affect the world we live in such as agriculture promotes the use of organic products, and I think composting for organic fertilizer makes the most sense for longterm best management practices.
 
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