Oaks are so confusing...

[T-Max]

Last weekend I picked so many acorns. I thought I got mainly Northern Red and Black Oaks. Today I found a tree that I was confident was SWO and another that looked to be Chinkapin. Now back at the office looking through my book the Black Oaks may have been Shumard and the SWO may be a Chinkapin with a shorter rounder nut. My head hurts. I am super jealous of you guys that can identify these with ease...

 

[shedder]

Admittedly, not easy even for botanists.
When you said you found SWO in KS, I wondered if it was not Chinkapin, which is more likely.
The wild native oaks in a region helps limit possiblities.
A good guide helps with that.

http://www.kansasnativeplants.com/guide/plant_search.php?grp=tree

I can't vouch for it but this may help some.

 

[shedder]

http://www.kansasforests.org/conservation_trees/soil.html

"Right Tree for My Soil provides the general public and other interested parties access to a Kansas soils map with suggested tree and shrub species to plant"

 

[shedder]

http://www.kansasforests.org/conservation_trees/products/deciduous/englishoak.html

What they claim here seems opposite to what I would think.

 

[Oakseeds]

The problem with white oak tree identification concerns their propensity to hybridize easily. Consequently, it is not uncommon to find SWO - for example - with different size/shape acorns. I just picked acorns from some SWO trees (mostly SWO) that are probably a cross with a straight white oak or an English columnar white oak (one that resulted in a genetic throwback - didn't retain columnar shape of english parent but exhibits leaf pattern of SWO. These trees are prolific producers of acorns that are much larger and shaped differently than most SWO (acorns are elongated in shape and more like the shape of an English Oak or White Oak; whereas, most SWO acorns are more gumdrop shape in appearance). Further, the leaves on these trees - while shaped like most SWO - are a dull brown in appearance without the silvery underside. Since I use them for habitat trees their propensity to produce lots of relatively large acorns on a regular basis (the trees are only about 9-10 years old)makes the other dimensions irrelevant. In ID'ing white oak trees, you can check the bark color/structure, look at the size/shape of the acorns, and examine the leaf pattern-structure/color ... and then conclude that tree is MOSTLY - for example -Bur Oak, English Oak, or SWO. Don't get frustrated or discouraged ... many of us just give our best estimate.

 

[T-Max]

The problem with white oak tree identification concerns their propensity to hybridize easily. Consequently, it is not uncommon to find SWO - for example - with different size/shape acorns. I just picked acorns from some SWO trees (mostly SWO) that are probably a cross with a straight white oak or an English columnar white oak (one that resulted in a genetic throwback - didn't retain columnar shape of english parent but exhibits leaf pattern of SWO. These trees are prolific producers of acorns that are much larger and shaped differently than most SWO (acorns are elongated in shape and more like the shape of an English Oak or White Oak; whereas, most SWO acorns are more gumdrop shape in appearance). Further, the leaves on these trees - while shaped like most SWO - are a dull brown in appearance without the silvery underside. Since I use them for habitat trees their propensity to produce lots of relatively large acorns on a regular basis (the trees are only about 9-10 years old)makes the other dimensions irrelevant. In ID'ing white oak trees, you can check the bark color/structure, look at the size/shape of the acorns, and examine the leaf pattern-structure/color ... and then conclude that tree is MOSTLY - for example -Bur Oak, English Oak, or SWO. Don't get frustrated or discouraged ... many of us just give our best estimate.

That makes sense. It doesn't matter to me so much because like you, as long as the tree is a solid producer it will fulfill my needs. My problem is I would really like to get involved in the seed/nut exchange, but it could get very frustrating for everyone if I am sending out the wrong stuff.

 

[Diamond hunter]

Id say get two books and compare and keep learning,google trees often like,google SWO and learn.Keep learning.

 

[TreeDaddy]

As I drive and travel , I make it a habit to notice and try to identify oak trees

Keep observing,reading and making notes

also download and keep a file on everything oak seeds posts

bill

 

[j-bird]

Start by learning those native to your area first. Best way to eat an elephant is one bite at a time. I started back in high school ag class and the FFA forestry competitions some 25 years ago......and I still make mistakes or find things I have to ask about. There are several "guides" out on the internet to help you as well. The link below may have been shared already, but it's one to at least point you in the right direction. The main thing I tell folks is to be able to ID a red from a white - this is super critical because of how they grow their acorns to ensure a mast crop as much as possible for their property. This can quickly help a property owned determine if they have a shortage of one family or the other. I also try to promote some diversity if at all possible, but soil type/conditions and native range can have a big impact on that as well. Planting a tree where it doesn't want to be is rather counter productive.....I know....I've tried.

As for the seed exchange, obviously ask the group here to help ID anything your not pretty certain of (we have some great folks here for that). I found an oak earlier this fall that I am being told is a Scheuttes - I had no idea what that was. It's a common hybrid - I didn't even know existed. I also like to take seed directly off the tree or off the ground from an isolated tree to reduce possibly mixing the acorns off those I have traded.

http://www.fs.fed.us/foresthealth/technology/pdfs/fieldguide.pdf