no till drill experimentation

[cutman]

I'm trying to minimize the work required to get my fall food plots in the ground. This year im planting rye, oats, radish, chicory, crimson clover, and arrowleaf clover using the large and small seed boxes on my Great Plains 706NT drill. Today I planted 6 acres into what I think was perfect soil moisture (11 days after 11.5" of rain from the hurricane). The fields were mostly covered in dead/dying summer grasses...I didn't spray or mow, I just let them die a natural death.

Two issues I faced: it was hard to control seed depth and hair pinning.

The dead grass was pretty thick, so I set the drill pretty deep to cut through it. It was s constant battle between too deep and too shallow, but I guess that's just something that one has to deal with.

As far as hair pinning is concerned, is that operator error, wrong planting conditions, or equipment fault? My coulters are sharp and most of the grass was quite dead, so it should have been able to cut through it. Any suggestions? Will get pictures Saturday.

 

[Smallplot]

Likely it was still too wet. If the soil is too wet there is not enough surface tension to hold the duff at the surface for a clean cut. What we think would be be good soil moisture is usually still to damp for good drill performance. Another consideration, or a combination is, was the grass dying or dead, completely brown and dead, throughout the plant? Was the grass holding moisture? .

I drilled some oats into about a 4 to 6 inch layer of cut foxtail, mowed with the batwing so it was solid across the width of the mower. I sprayed to kill the grass not killed by mowing and two weeks later drilled. Got a good stand out of this with very little hairpinning. The key was letting the cut portion dry up completely then going in when the soil appeared dry to let the coulters efficiently cut the duff and not tend to just push it down into the ground.

 

[cutman]

I think that's exactly what the problem was. I found a discussion on a U.K. farming forum that discussed similar issues, and the consensus was that in order to cut through straw, the soil has to be firm. My soil was definitely not firm. Hopefully it turns out alright.

 

[Smallplot]

That is my experience for sure. On the downside when that happens, with turbo coulters anyway, the coulters tend to push the furrow out leaving less than ideal seed to soil contact and a definitive trench along each row.


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[cutman]

I saw that too. Definitely had an issue with the trench not closing. If we get any rain, I think it will come up ok, but if no rain it ain't gonna be pretty.

 

[Smallplot]

Yep, exactly!

 

[dogdoc]

Help this city boy, what is hair pinning?

 

[cutman]

It's when the coulter pushes the thatch/straw/grass/residue down into the ground rather than cuts it. It essentially pins it down into the dirt.

 

[Smallplot]

And to add to cut's reply: when the thatch is pushed down into the furrow (seed trench) it can effect seed to soil contact. In very bad situations the thatch will envelope the seed therefore reducing germination


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[dogdoc]

Gotcha. Thanks.

 

[cutman]

Coming up much better than I thought. Even with not 1 drop of rain...

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[dogdoc]

Looks good. My plots are stagnant right now. Brassicas are maybe 4" tall. I have had a total of 0.38" of rain for the month of October and that was over 3 weeks ago.

 

[Don M]

Cutman, how did you apply fertilizer for your fields pictured above.....I have started using split application of nitrogen in my no-til fields, putting the second application on at 4-6 weeks after planting. With no rain, that nitrogen has a hard time getting to the roots and most will evaporate before it does much good. I am now getting most of my urea nitrogen coated to slow this process down.

 

[cutman]

I didn't apply any, Don. I applied 10-10-10 last year and haven't harvested anything since, so I'm counting on nutrients that are already in the soil. I will top dress with nitrogen if needed in the spring.

 

[Smallplot]

For a boost (will not be able to apply season long amounts this way) to cereal grains one can spray with strictly a tank mix of water and AMS.

 

[MarkDarvin]

When I need nitrogen on growing things, I just use dry AMS. Takes a few more lbs than urea to get the job done, but the stability and free sulfur are worth it. And if you end up acidifying your soil a little, it's an opportunity to boost calcium and magnesium levels if you need it with some additional lime next season.

 

[Smallplot]

Here is one picture taken today, Halloween, no till drilled into a terminated Med red clover and grass plot.

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[Smallplot]

And this area was no till drilled into about a 6 inch layer of dried foxtail that was chopped up. First picture shows what it looked like at planting time if I recall correctly.

Here is what it looked like on Halloween.

Key was letting the entire layer of thatch get bone dry before going in with the no-till drill. Nitrogen came from the alfalfa that came to an untimely end by means of a coop spraying mixup.



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[Smallplot]

And this area was no till drilled into about a 6 inch layer of dried foxtail that was chopped up. First picture shows what it looked like at planting time if I recall correctly.

Here is what it looked like on Halloween.

Key was letting the entire layer of thatch get bone dry before going in with the no-till drill. Nitrogen came from the alfalfa that came to an untimely end by means of a coop spraying mixup.



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Notice any difference in the amount of thatch remaining between the two areas?


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