Well as I said I'm brand new to hunting and haven't even harvested my 1st animal yet but I have some questions in regards to after the shot. Is a skinning knife used for filed dressing? Would a 270 caliber be used for most large game (deer mostly)? When I'm shopping for clothing what is how important is matching the camo pattern for the area I'm planning on hunting? What is a good bow and arrow that isn't going to cost me much more than $500. Thanks for the input I'm sure I will have more questions.
wbpdeer
Well-Known Member
1. Yes a skinning knife is what you need to field dress a deer. You can get on YouTube and likely find videos how to properly field dress a deer.
2. A 270 is a large enough caliber to hunt deer and elk. The bullets you use are very important to match the catridge to the animal you are shooting. Cartridges come in different grains (weights of the bullet) and different types of tips.
3. Camo is not as important as sitting still and picking a good location. Put the sun in the animals eyes if you have a choice not in your eyes. Be mindful of the wind. The best camo in the world will not conceal unnecessary movement on the hunter's part.
4. A bow is specific to the hunter - draw length and weight of the bow. Best advice is to go to a good archery shop and tell them you are a beginner and what your budget is. They likely to have some used bows that you can shot to get a feel for the skill and the weapon. It starts with a bow and the arrow is secondary and the broadhead is 3rd. You have to determine which is your dominant eye. The archery shop will help you determine that. Bows are much improved in the last 10 years. Accuracy is more important than speed.
Welcome to the forum. I see you are from Wisconsin. Have fun and be safe.
Wayne
2. A 270 is a large enough caliber to hunt deer and elk. The bullets you use are very important to match the catridge to the animal you are shooting. Cartridges come in different grains (weights of the bullet) and different types of tips.
3. Camo is not as important as sitting still and picking a good location. Put the sun in the animals eyes if you have a choice not in your eyes. Be mindful of the wind. The best camo in the world will not conceal unnecessary movement on the hunter's part.
4. A bow is specific to the hunter - draw length and weight of the bow. Best advice is to go to a good archery shop and tell them you are a beginner and what your budget is. They likely to have some used bows that you can shot to get a feel for the skill and the weapon. It starts with a bow and the arrow is secondary and the broadhead is 3rd. You have to determine which is your dominant eye. The archery shop will help you determine that. Bows are much improved in the last 10 years. Accuracy is more important than speed.
Welcome to the forum. I see you are from Wisconsin. Have fun and be safe.
Wayne
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Kwood
Well-Known Member
Jeff H
Well-Known Member
Wayne gives some great advise. If your going to bow hunt I'll reinforce what he already said. Make sure the bow fits you! So many archers do not know their proper draw length. Go to a good archery shop vs a big box sporting goods store for that advice. This cannot be over stated! Good advice can save you time and money. Bad advice is costly. If your bow does not fit you, it'll never shoot well for you and you'll never have the confidence you need. In archery confidence is EVERYTHING!
You've got a great head start into next season. Good luck to you and keep us posted on your progress.
You've got a great head start into next season. Good luck to you and keep us posted on your progress.
Tap
Well-Known Member
Clothing material is more important than camo pattern. If you aren't warm, dry, and comfortable, you won't stay in the woods long or sit still long. Base and intermediate layers should never be cotton unless you're hunting in very warm conditions. Personally, I seldom wear any cotton while hunting. 95% of my outdoor clothing is either synthetic or wool. I do prefer some camo patterns over others. I hunt from trees and I believe the lighter, more open patterns are better in trees than the darker patterns. I'd rather look like a hole in the brush than a tree trunk but that's just my preference. Darker patterns are okay during or just after rainy conditions when the branches and everything tend to be wet and darker. But as said above, not moving is most important to remain undetected. Not being silhouetted against the sky is also very important. That's why I prefer the lighter, open camo patterns. IMO, there's less chance of being sky-lined when wearing light patterned stuff.
For and hunting, but especially bow hunting, knowing deer anatomy intimately and only attempting ethical shot angles is crucial. Blood trailing skills are equally important, but if you are proficient at making ethical shots, then blood trailing becomes easier and less of an issue.
There are some very poor anatomy charts out there. There's a thread on another forum that discusses/shows some of those charts. Some are downright ridiculous and completely irresponsible.
The Masterpiece Archery Target website has several most excellent videos on the subject. They demonstrate deer vitals on both carcasses and 3D targets. They even dissect the carcasses and inflate lungs. They also demonstrate shot angles. One thing to always keep in mind when bowhunting deer...never attempt a shot angle that doesn't allow the arrow to pass thru both lungs.
A double lung shot allows the greatest margin of error. And shooting for anything other than the chest cavity in highly unethical.
Here's a link to the Masterpiece site. These vids are very in-depth. It takes a few hours to view them all, but they are well worth it for all hunters...newbies or veterans.
http://www.masterpiecearcherytargets.com/videos
For and hunting, but especially bow hunting, knowing deer anatomy intimately and only attempting ethical shot angles is crucial. Blood trailing skills are equally important, but if you are proficient at making ethical shots, then blood trailing becomes easier and less of an issue.
There are some very poor anatomy charts out there. There's a thread on another forum that discusses/shows some of those charts. Some are downright ridiculous and completely irresponsible.
The Masterpiece Archery Target website has several most excellent videos on the subject. They demonstrate deer vitals on both carcasses and 3D targets. They even dissect the carcasses and inflate lungs. They also demonstrate shot angles. One thing to always keep in mind when bowhunting deer...never attempt a shot angle that doesn't allow the arrow to pass thru both lungs.
A double lung shot allows the greatest margin of error. And shooting for anything other than the chest cavity in highly unethical.
Here's a link to the Masterpiece site. These vids are very in-depth. It takes a few hours to view them all, but they are well worth it for all hunters...newbies or veterans.
http://www.masterpiecearcherytargets.com/videos
Thanks for all the great feedback I just picked up a diamond edge SB-1 and it’s been a fun few days getting the site dialed in
Tap
Well-Known Member
Most bow hunters use tree stands because it's a much more effective tactic. Pop up ground blinds have their place but you don't just pop them up and hunt. They need much more prep than tree stands. Ground blinds need brushed in so they blend in.
Then there's ladder stands. They are heavy and they take some technique to set up. They are definitely not stealthy to erect but they are safe and comfortable.
Climbers have their place, too. But they are restricted to trees without branches or you'll have to cut them as you climb...usually not legal on public land. And, IMO, cover to conceal you is important in trees. Cutting branches reduces valuable cover.
And climber must be carried in and out, and then attached to the tree. It's not stealthy.
Hang on stands are my choice, but they have their downsides as well...especially on public land. You might no be able to legally leave one on the tree and you also need a method to climb. Screw in steps can't be used on most public ground. Climbing sticks are the other option...but they're more gear to carry and install.
But I still prefer hang on stands (on private land) they can easily be pre set in trees that provide better cover and hunted with less disturbance.
Yet another choice is the tree saddle which is similar to a rock climbing harness. They are light and mobile but they have a learning curve and they have their own set of challenges...you still have to ascend the tree just like a hang on stand.
There's a forum that's basically a community of dedicated saddle hunters. A lot of those guys have sold their conventional stands and strictly hunt from only saddles. Used properly, saddles are probably to safest of all of the elevated techniques.
As for hanging or holding the bow...I hang mine 90% of the time. I have much less fatigue or movement when my bow hangs. Holding a bow for an 11 hour sit is tiring and hands get cold.
Screw in hangers are nice but may not be legal on public land. Strap on hangers are easy to make.
And most importantly, never climb or hunt from elevated stands without the proper safety gear.
Calling, rattling, etc is widely debated. There's a ton of reasons why calling may or may not work. Time of the season, buck doe ratio, age structure of the herd, hunting pressure, calling techniques, wind direction, odor control, terrain and cover are all pieces of the puzzle. And disposition of the deer is another thing. The mood a buck is in may cause him to not be susceptible to calling today and that same buck may respond to the exact same tactic tomorrow or even later that same day. I've seen it happen a few times.
Other than snort wheeze, I rarely call. Where I hunt, most mature bucks tend to circle down wind and scent check calls and they get educated. Sometimes calling does more harm than good...but there are plenty of guys who swear by it.
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I've read through the rules for the public land and i can't do anything that causes damage,(screw in steps, cut branches), so I'm looking at using some sort of climbing sticks or other way to ascend the tree. I can however leave a stand out until 7 days after the deer season at my own risk as long as my name and hunter ID number is visible from the ground. This may be my best option, I'm intrigued by the saddle. What kind of safety harness do you use with the tree stands listed above, or does it not matter what kind of stand you use the saftey harness with?
Kwood
Well-Known Member
Jfinn, you can get a lightweight treestand and 3 hang on sticks and be up most anywhere quick. Not sure your budget or cost but I love the millennium m60, with 3 lone wolf steps (or similar concept). I can hang a stand in 20 minutes.
I typically hunt afternoons if doing same day hanging and try and get around noon to find a spot, set up, and let things settle down for a good afternoon sit.
This is a more pricey option (stand/step). Be about $200-$250. It’s light and easy to set up. You could find used or cheaper but may sacrifice a bit in weight.
I personally love climbers but anymore I feel like the aforementioned set up is quieter, less work, and allows more tree selection.
Whatever you do, make sure to have a harness!!!
Best of luck.
Also, with steps or climber, practice a couple times both setting up and shooting out of. It’s a different feel trying to do it while being quiet and different shooting out of stand first time.
Again, wear a harness always!!
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I typically hunt afternoons if doing same day hanging and try and get around noon to find a spot, set up, and let things settle down for a good afternoon sit.
This is a more pricey option (stand/step). Be about $200-$250. It’s light and easy to set up. You could find used or cheaper but may sacrifice a bit in weight.
I personally love climbers but anymore I feel like the aforementioned set up is quieter, less work, and allows more tree selection.
Whatever you do, make sure to have a harness!!!
Best of luck.
Also, with steps or climber, practice a couple times both setting up and shooting out of. It’s a different feel trying to do it while being quiet and different shooting out of stand first time.
Again, wear a harness always!!
Sent from my iPhone using Deer Hunter Forum
Mennoniteman
Well-Known Member
Hunting with a buddy has many advantages, from practicing together, scouting together, learning from each other, sharing the good times and bad times, and sharing some of the costs. Plus keeping each other motivated and also the safety factor of having someone know where you are an being close by, available to help you.
shaman
Member
Is a skinning knife used for filed dressing?
Yes and no. I reccomend the Buck Folding Hunter 110 for starters. It's a good general purpose blade and with the right edge, it will stay sharp through a whole season. Having said that, remember that skinning and gutting may be seperate operations. I'm currently using a slightly stubbier blade for gutting (Buck 113 Ranger Skinner knife) and using a longer blade to skin out, back at the meatpole. The 110 will do both.
Would a 270 caliber be used for most large game (deer mostly)? Absolutly. 270 WIN is not my favorite, but it won't bounce off 'em. Despite all the hype, any modern centerfire rifle cartridge can kill a deer. Some may be more limited than others, but 270 WIN is nicely in the middle of the pile-- good performance with reasonable recoil.
When I'm shopping for clothing what is how important is matching the camo pattern for the area I'm planning on hunting? Absolutely not. Camo can be of benefit, but I've taken plenty of deer in brown Carharts and most of them in the past decade or so have been taken in this get-up:
Follow the link in my signature block. Genesis9:2-4 Ministries has a bunch of articles meant for newbies. Good luck hunting.
Yes and no. I reccomend the Buck Folding Hunter 110 for starters. It's a good general purpose blade and with the right edge, it will stay sharp through a whole season. Having said that, remember that skinning and gutting may be seperate operations. I'm currently using a slightly stubbier blade for gutting (Buck 113 Ranger Skinner knife) and using a longer blade to skin out, back at the meatpole. The 110 will do both.
Would a 270 caliber be used for most large game (deer mostly)? Absolutly. 270 WIN is not my favorite, but it won't bounce off 'em. Despite all the hype, any modern centerfire rifle cartridge can kill a deer. Some may be more limited than others, but 270 WIN is nicely in the middle of the pile-- good performance with reasonable recoil.
When I'm shopping for clothing what is how important is matching the camo pattern for the area I'm planning on hunting? Absolutely not. Camo can be of benefit, but I've taken plenty of deer in brown Carharts and most of them in the past decade or so have been taken in this get-up:
Follow the link in my signature block. Genesis9:2-4 Ministries has a bunch of articles meant for newbies. Good luck hunting.
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Mennoniteman
Well-Known Member
I field dress a lot of deer, a few for the freezer every year, a junior hunter's first deer to show them how, and if I'm with friends I'll usually volunteer to be the one to get my hands bloody. I have a lot of fancy and expensive knives, but most of them are too bulky and heavy for me to have in a pants pocket all the time, thus I have field dressed dozens of deer with these little 3" razor sharp three dollar lockback folders that I get for free from the local lumber yard. It doesn't take a fancy knife to gut a deer, but butchering is a different story, for that I like a well balanced fixed blade knife that handles well, is super sharp and stays sharp. I have a reputation for always having sharp tools, and a good sharpener like this Worksharp Ken Onion 1" belt sharpener is just as important as the knife. 
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Drycreek
Well-Known Member
Good stuff above. The basics have been covered, but one or two things bear repeating. Always use a saftey harness, and a dedicated harness (not the one that comes with the stand) will serve you better. They are readily available online or at the outdoor stores. Always use a climbing belt and always use a safety line with a Prussic knot to ascend and descend the tree. Always let someone know where you are and when to expect you home. These steps are somewhat time consuming, but nobody wants to go to your funeral ! Good luck and welcome to the addiction !
Tap
Well-Known Member
Good points and I'd like to add a couple more.
Even with the best of safety harnesses, you MUST be capable of self rescue. Don't think that you can just hang there for a few hours until someone comes looking for you. There's such a thing as suspension trauma and it will kill you. Because of the risk of getting some facts slightly wrong, I won't try to explain what happens to a suspended persons blood pressure, but rest assured, you can die if suspended for less than a half hour.
And letting someone know "where you'll be" is a great idea, but our description of that place may lose something when we try to explain it to someone.
There's a better way. Go on Google Earth and zoom in to your exact stand location(s) and mark it with an icon and name that icon. Share that image with family or friends. You can even leave a hard copy in your vehicle if you want. Don't rely on rescue teams to find you by cell phone locator. Phones break, or get lost. Batteries go dead.
When I leave the house, I tell my wife which stand I plan on going to. When I'm safely harnessed in the stand, I'll text her and confirm exactly which stand I've decided to hunt...I may have changed my choice since I left home due to wind direction or other factors.
When my sit is over and I climb down, I'll text again and let her know I'm on the ground. Climbing is the most dangerous part of treestand hunting. Letting someone know that we are safely IN the stand and then again later when we are on THE GROUND could save our life or save loved ones a lot of worry. We don't always get back home on time. We could be dealing with a deer or even sitting in the dark waiting for deer to leave so we can climb down. Keeping in touch with someone is our responsibility.
I often hunt out of state, and alone. If I had an accident in the woods, nobody may know for hours. But if I keep in cell contact, I save my family a lot of uncertainty.
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Jeff H
Well-Known Member
I always suggest using a climbing stand for public land. Pack it in, pack it out. Don't leave it unless you bring a serious lock and cable. A $5 lock on a $200 stand doesn't make sense to me. The only limitation you'll have is finding a tree with no major limbs for the first 15 ft. Sometimes you have to look a bit harder for the right tree but I have never left an area because I could not find a tree to hang my stand in. Bring a folding hand saw for the small limbs and have it in your pants pocket as you climb.
I've tried using lock on stands for a one day sit on private and public land and they just require too much set up time/effort vs a climber. I always end up sweating like a pig and they take much longer to set up than a climber.
For a season long set up loc-on is the way to go IMHO.
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Tap
Well-Known Member
That's a sure way to get fined in Pa. My buddy's FIL got a $150 fine just for screwing in one single bow hanger beside his ladder stand. Sawing or pruning branches isn't permitted on Pa Game Lands.
Tap
Well-Known Member
If I didn't live here, I wouldn't hunt Pa either. Lots of better states IMO... OH, KY, IA, MO, KS, IL, MT, did I leave any out? Wish I was an Iowa resident.Oh, and no matter what, don't ever hunt in PA.
