Windrows are not the end of the world, you can always increase seeding rate to compensate or mow the field differently each time to change thatch pattern. A foot or so thick thatch would be an issue, but a few inches is not. 'Scalping a field' seems to create more windrow. The higher you mow seems more material falls into the depression from wheel tracks. Somewhere in between will be the correct cutting height (depends on the forage and it's density)....just platy with it. Blades should be sharp (maybe harden and square the tips with a weld) and rpm/speed sufficient to keep blades cutting (not pulling plants up by the roots or dropping more than 200 rpm in dense forage).
Why do we have windrows?....either thatch is not being chopped into small enough particles (change to a mulching type blade and slow down) or thatch cannot clear itself from under the mower deck. This latter issue can be resolved by mowing in the opposite direction the blade is turning and choosing the correct ground speed. When mowing pasture before drilling (5 ft hog), we get the most even thatch spread by mowing clockwise with a 4-6" cutting height perpendicular to a slope. With the downslope and previously mowed area on the left side of deck and blade turning counter-clockwise, thatch will spread evenly to the left over the prior 1-2 mowing passes. With all that said it makes sense to have the mower deck level or canted slightly up (for level land) on the one side (this is done by adjusting a 3 point arm).
Don't start on the edges of a field and mow toward the middle like most folks do. Instead make the first pass along the ridge of the field or along the depression, then mow one side according to slope/blade turn and then the other side. IF you are mowing forage with a lot of chaff/dust, then you may need to mow perpendicular to wind flow to prevent tractor from overheating (pull screen in front of radiator off and clean it occasionally....blow out radiator fins daily with air). In the case of chaff and clogged radiator, windrowing is what it is...don't overheat the tractor!
IF you hard graze a field before planting, windrowing becomes a moot point.....some standing material is left for shade and to block wind....and thatch is pressed against the soil like you want due to hoof action! Caution here.....do not lock a cow herd down on a field with only broadleaf plants/legumes.....either plant milo, sorghum, EW or millet in the mix or place hay bales on field edge for a roughage source. Cattle require more roughage in the diet than deer, goats or sheep.
A flail mower/silage chopper is another option for even thatch spread after cutting....provided you can find a used one inexpensively.