Egyptian wheat....mowing.....planned grazing

I would much prefer bunch grasses and forbes over a sod for wildlife. I've has some success with gly on fescue but it was with several applications over the spring and summer.

Does gly tie up nutrients and kill microbes? I sometimes wonder if my throw-n-mow is as healthy for the soil as I think it is...
 
Along those same lines, how is fescue sod different from native grasses of the plains and the sod they once formed?? I know my fescue is a thick deep mass of roots easily a foot deep not easily killed. Gly will set it back, but easiest and cheapest way to rid it is one time tillage. In a well established field, it will only return along the way with just gly app. Sod is so thick and controlling it will not allow ohter seeds to establish enough to suppress it. Yea I know.... fire.

'Breaking sod' refers to 'plowing grassland'. During settlement of the plains, it was required by the govt that the settler plow the sod and improve the land's production, if his land were to remain 'free of govt fees'! We now well know the negative cascading effects of that govt blunder on soil health and the very factual decline in soil organic matter content! We also know what folks will do (mule blinders on) for something that is 'free of cost'!

IF you look at native rangeland it is a mixture of diverse bunch grasses, legumes, forbs, herbs, and woody species.....a monoculture sod by no means...but somehow linked in a harmonious way? Thus the soil microbial population is diverse and balanced due to plant diversity....capable of supporting diverse animal life!

KY 31 tall fescue is infected with the fungus Epichloë coenophiala. This endophyte fungus provides the following plant benefits:
- drought tolerance (not resistance since at some point west it don't grow!)
- insect resistance
- disease resistance
- herbivore resistance


Remove Epichole coenophiala from KY 31 tall fescue and the resulting plant is call 'endophyte free tall fescue'. Fescue 'free of the endophyte' lasts about as long as a fart in a whirl-wind.....a fact which many bankrupt producers to this day blame academia for the release of 'endophyte free fescue'....they are as equally gun shy about 'novel fescues' recently released by academia!

Anyway, stop and think about how one endophyte can bring such massive benefit to one plant growing is a soil once rich in microbial diversity? The answer to that is Epichloe is extremely competitive at the expense (loss) of other soil microbial species. And to do that Epichloe likely produces various antibiotics and anti-fugals which keep it dominant in soil over a multitude of other organisms (plant and microbial) who try a 'rebellion'!

How do the native warm season grasses differ? The answer is simple and HUGE....they host a high count of non-plant specific and beneficial class of fungi called, 'mycorrhizae'.

Lots of reading on that
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=mycorrhizae+of+native+grasses&spf=1495048993457

I've read studies that fescue substantially reduces tree growth when it is allowed to grow within a drip line. Does it produce allelopathic chemicals, or does it inhibit growth through microbe depression and tieing up minerals?
I'm not to interested in many chemicals, but I do use gly often. What's your thoughts on gly and it tieing up nitrogen or killing microbes?

Not ignoring you Cat.....I need to stop at this time for an appointment....will edit this post and finish the conversations this eve!

Just graze and observe,
Doug
 
No problem. Time is short (I've only been getting a few minutes here and there to think about this stuff or orchestrate a reply). Reply if and when you feel like.
 
No problem. Time is short (I've only been getting a few minutes here and there to think about this stuff or orchestrate a reply). Reply if and when you feel like.

That was a pleasant appointment. He was a young fellow....money investment occupation type.....has a home garden and is big into composting, vermiculture, involving the kids, and growing his families food. That is great!.....a younger generation focused on health and fitness...its about time! Much more in common than either of us imagined on the first handshake. Always take the time to tell strangers your story and listen to theirs!

Anyway, what you should have gleaned from the above is fescue is a non-mycorhizal host plant which supports a non-native fungi with capacity to shift the native soil microbial population and suppress soil microbial activity. That soil microbial shift is what leads ultimately to loss of plant diversity and animal productivity in the fescue dominant field! Minerals available to the animal are only those present in the fescue plant...for whatever reason fescue accentuates Cu deficiency in low Cu soils.

This should be common sense to us if we transfer information across scientific lines. By training, my field is ruminant nutrition. During course of study, one is taught how various diet changes shift the rumen microbial population....as examples, cottonseed cake supplemented on low quality dormant grass increases grass intake and stimulates fiber digesting bacterial, supplementing with grain shift the rumen microbe population from fiber digesters to starch digesters, low quality straw in the diet promotes more rumen fungi activity, ionophores shift from gram negative to gram positive bacteria, Tylan is an antibiotic which keeps lactic acid producing bacteria from killing the feeder calf on a high grain finishing diet, etc. The point is that small changes in the diet shift the rumen microbial population....the cascading effects can either have net positive or net negative effects!

Think of the soil microbial population as that of the cow or deer rumen. When you think in that context, then you will understand that anything which we do to plants above ground causes a series of compounding and cascading effects in the soil microbial population below ground. So when you put infected tall fescue roots in the soil.....the endophyte causes major changes in the soil microbiome...a shift selecting against mycorhizae and lowering of total soil microbial activity.

So my thoughts on fescue (which are open to change as new information arrives) are as follows:

-For the wildlife only property, a wise long term move is to eradicate most of the fescue with the least foot print on the land as possible....even if that means once in fescue now in ugly tall weeds!
-For the dual wildlife/livestock property, monitor fescue plant density closely avoiding monoculture....monitor cattle comfort and respiration closely/regularly When the mercurynormally rises above 80 find something else to graze besides fescue! When the mercury rises above 90 stay the hell away from fescue! Graze fescue hard Dec through March when endophyte alkaloids levels are the least! Just because the cow herd came from the fescue belt doesn't mean they will be adapted to fescue in the marginal fescue belt....didn't have to lose many tail switches to prove that to myself!

You ask about glyphosate?....a non-selective herbicide which kills most all plants it contacts. Think again about the cow and her rumen and what we could do to her to emulate a glyphosate effect....that is easy don't feed her.....the rumen bugs run out of resources and the host cow undergoes catabolic degeneration leading to death!

Does the same not happen with glyphosate? you bet it does! One week there is a field of plants who's roots are feeding a soil microbial population....the second week the feed source is pulled....the 3rd week the catabolic degeneration of soil microbes begins because there are no living host plants and soil orgain matter is being burned for it's reserves! The term 'nuke a field with gly' is very fitting! By the 2nd week seeds of a very diverse blend in kind and type need to be in place so that a new diverse soil microbial population can begin colonizing the new roots!

I am not being anti-glyphosate. Just want one to think through the whole process going on in the soil when using broad spectrum herbicide....do we have plans to improve soil microbial diversity after spraying?....or will our plans for monoculture seeding reduce and simplify soil microbial population after spraying?

Similar applies to broadleaf herbicides where forbs and legumes leave the picture after spraying. How much ever % of a pie chart the broadleaf plant related soil microbes occupied before spraying went to zero after spraying....ie a whole class of organisms are lost and the soil microbial population is imbalanced....and the 'weeds' return next year!

Grass selective herbicide...same thing!

It's all about checks, balances and trades! We all operate on a different playing field and will have different metrics to gauge and viewpoints thereof. Diversity in thought is a good think but let's not lose wisdom in the process!

Nuking fescue in the fescue belt with gly and short term loss of soil microbial activity vs long term gain of increased plant diversity, soil microbial diversity, and soil microbial mass....fair trade IMO.

Nuking fescue in the 'marginal fescue zone' with gly where fescue ebbs and flows with drought severity...not a wise check IMO.

Burning and thinning low grade timber in the southern plains which induces a short term soil microbial activity depression and slight erosion risk vs long term gain of increased plant diversity....a fair trade IMO.

Burning and thinning timber in the eastern hardwood forest....consult your local forester....I have no valid opinion!

Just graze and observe,
Doug
 
Thanks for the reply. Lots of great info... I learned quit a bit with the last couple of posts.

What's your thoughts; if someone had a dense stand of fescue they wanted to kill, would it benefit them to hit it with a fungicide a couple of weeks before hitting it with gly?

Also, how long can soil microbes go "dormant" in adverse conditions? Lots of bacteria can survive a while until conditions are favorable. I'm wondering how long it takes to replenish populations after a gly application?

How about manure? Do cattle harbor any of these little guys and contribute to the repopulation of soil microbes?

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My mom and i sat on porch late afternoon and watched the deer come into the mowed area. She commented on how quickly it had regreened. Deer were there for corn now but should benefit from regrowth, hopefullu of the vetch. Wow how thick that fescue.
I commented that the seed heads looked so much like rye. She said there was a strand of fescue recommended once that was different and she thought dad put it there. The new fescue turn out to be toxic at stages especially to horses. This field certainly greens early and has gone wild with no cattle for 15 years.
Speaking of green, as a teenager i had two perfect golf greens that were an 8 iron apart in that field. To this day on a golf course if i have an 8 iron to the green my confid3nce level is sky high
 
Speaking of green, as a teenager i had two perfect golf greens that were an 8 iron apart in that field. To this day on a golf course if i have an 8 iron to the green my confid3nce level is sky high
I grew up with a makeshift green also... I love my 9 iron!
 
Thanks for the reply. Lots of great info... I learned quit a bit with the last couple of posts.

What's your thoughts; if someone had a dense stand of fescue they wanted to kill, would it benefit them to hit it with a fungicide a couple of weeks before hitting it with gly?

Also, how long can soil microbes go "dormant" in adverse conditions? Lots of bacteria can survive a while until conditions are favorable. I'm wondering how long it takes to replenish populations after a gly application?

How about manure? Do cattle harbor any of these little guys and contribute to the repopulation of soil microbes?

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Example of fescue eradication protocol starting 2 years prior to establishing something new:
- Mow as often as needed to prevent seed set the first year and spring second year
- Spray vegetative growth with label rate of glyphosate in second spring
- Drill a summer annual mix heavy on sorghum sudan
- Mow the mix when SS is 3-4' tall leaving 12" stubble height
- Terminate as warranted late summer and drill a diverse winter annual mix or the new cool season forage to be established

There are several protocol variants of that....my point....plan well in advance for eradication to account for 18 months of fescue seed in the latent seed bank.

No on fungicide...they are non-selective.....get the good fungi as well as the bad. The endophyte in KY31 propogates through seed and has a 'short shelf life' in shelf stored seed (storage conditions dependent).

Soil microbes can go dormant for decades or they may find an alternative host plant until primary plants of interest return.

Depends on how many gly applications....several a year are detrimental. When high plant diversity and other impacts which increase SOM are restored, then the soil biology will come back strong and as balanced as the current diverse plant community.

Cattle have both rumen microbes and cecal microbes which augment soil microbiology. The cow is a 'walking inoculator' in terms of manure, saliva and other cast body parts (hair) or other secretions. The cow manages the soil with 5 mouths (1 mouth and 4 hooves).

Just graze and observe,
Doug
 
Cat, ask your FIL if he can get 3-4 lb/d gain from summer stockers on native range with no supplement....figure 1.5-2.25 lb is more reasonable. Heard a comment about that today which I think is a bit overstated.

Somewhere between 5-7" rain here last weekend....can't remember if I dumped gauge Fri....it had 2.25".....dumped 5" Sat. County roads washed pretty good....lots of area flooding and road damages. My pastures laid down Sat then stood back up Sun...prolly extra 4" of growth.

I could see the flood trash lines in bottom land pasture, so a good time to stretch new string and plan for high water.

Installed new design creek gap . Used 3/8"x4' fiberglass line post here in the 50 yrd wide overflow and in timber across deer run. The string in overflow can be rolled up when not needed....lessening chance of damage....posts can be left in place. The panels were the tops on hog trap....new use! Dog was swimming in creek....hence murky water....rubs clear normally.
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You can bend Fiberglas posts to the ground and it won't break....much more durable than plastic tread-ins but not as portable for strip grazing. Fiberglass posts are $1.50 each (including SH, spring clips, and driver cap) vs $1.75 for plastic local. Fiberglass will work good for deer plot fence line posts using stainless spring clips to hold string.....Kencove has all that stuff....get the nylon driver cap. I have a bunch of yellow screw on insulators from the days of rebar to use up (as pictured.

Checked fence and cows Fri. 12V Energizer shot craps so put up a 6V backup. Electric tape had shorted itself 30' from charger....so fence was dead leg around cows.....they never breeched fence. Checked again Sat AM...charger was fine....tape had shorted in two more places closer to herd....they didn't breach. Electric tape is probably the least durable product made....catches too much wind and will short where it runs against plastic post.....easy fix by twisting a length of 17ga smooth wire over the short. Tape will short at least opportune time. Braid or polywire are better investments IME.

We use high tensile barbed on main creek gap. Wires were loose and trashed with leaves. Tightened them before snakes and poison ivy return.

No work in timber (other than clearing old seismic lane for new string). Little Blonde helped me. Went to decoration and had family time with grand pup. Cut his first tooth, growing like a weed, almost crawling....5 month old now.

Just graze and observe....take time for family,
Doug


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Fruit guys?

What disease or insect damage is on these pear leaves? Is it secondary to modest sapsucker damage on trunk?
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Power of the latent seed bank! Roughly a dozen years ago we dug some loamy bottomland soil from a ditch bank with shovels on the ranch. It was mixed pretty good from the random shovel throws.Transported that zone 7b soil to 7a for a rock garden and goldfish pond flower bed at the house. Little Blonde lost her interest in goldfish from having to clean out rotten leaves....so the liner which mostly created mosquito habitat was pulled last year. Let's see what has came to fruition.

Cat claw green brier....huge solar panel!
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Carolina snail seed.
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3 and 5 leafed ivy.
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Giant ragweed.
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White sweet clover.
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Japanese brome.
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A pannicum of some type.
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All of those serve as important wildlife food sources for the area of origin. Bush honeysuckle in background of pic is local invasive....not a 7b transplant.

And here are a couple forbs yet to be identified. Any ideas?
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Grazing native stuff....June is perfect timing....filling the 'lull' between cool season forage senescence and ideal growth of most improved warm season forages.

a48bc5e221c2d139859dafe3a181b2f5.jpg
Top of fiberglass post is belt tall for reference....class 7 soil....rough and rocky.....erodiable. Each clump appears to be a different variety of switchgrass....plenty other NWSG, legumes and forbs in that paddock...a third is 70 day post burn....the remainder recovered since December grazing.

That would be 'deer country' so a long term flexible efencing is needed. Plastic will break and metal w/ plastic will find a way to short out when deer hit it.

3/8" fiberglass posts 4' long ($1.19 at TSC) actually are easier to set in rocks than are tread in posts and they anchor better in soil. I bent the post over and put my boot on top to pin it to ground while taking a pic.
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Remove my boot and it springs back up to normal and no bend!
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I am trying stainless steel spring clips on this fence (a few cents each from Kencove fence).
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I wonder if my neighbor has ever thought about why the barbed wire was put on his side of fence 50 yr ago?Kinda funny we been neighbors for 5 yr now and we haven't met!

I wonder if anyone hunting your property has ever thought about mentioning to the owner that his fence was down? Damned sure didn't mention to me!

I wonder if the son in law and kids on the other side of fence has ever thought about maintaining fence? Damned sure haven't mentioned anything to me!

Or you just gonna wait till fence is so worn out that a bunch of money has to be spent anew? I sure hope I am able to help pay half the bill at that time.....all will depend on if I get social security!

But those same type of folks 'over there' will be the first to complain if a cow gets out?

Quite honestly Mr Neighbor my cows won't stay long if they do stray because your property lacks disturbance which makes for unpalatable forage. I don't have the time to chase cows on 600 ac of grown up habitat crap anyway. Plus the high tick load and lack of stock water in non-maintained ponds will send them back home anyway!

Rather than deal with all those social issues, I'll just go ahead and make sure fence in up...that way we don't need to talk for another 5 years!

For hobby farm owners who don't want cows on their place, a Texas Fence Stretcher is a handy tool to have around! Don't cost much either and plenty web videos demonstrating use!
Sometimes it is best to just fix it yourself rather than talk with a neighbor!

Gray wire (12.5 ga Sheffield) was put up in 1972....my splice wire is 80 year old 2 barb 10 gauge from the old old fence the 72 one replaced.
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Lil time with the saw before the day gets hot, will get lumber off the fence.
All wires can then be retightened quickly.
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RP Cooke (writes Animal Health notebook for Beef Producer) always calls me at about the most in opportune times like my women folk do. Always take the time for at least a short conversation with Doc. Says he has most fence issues at the corners. Well Doc, this corner has seen better days but still holds wire....considering the site, a rock basket corner would be preferred replacement. Until the neighbor decides the fence actually needs to set on the surveyed corner marker, this will have to do!
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Mr Neighbor, it is about noon on Memorial Day and getting hot. I hope your vacation on the lake brought cooler weather and great time with family! When the last fix was done, I hung a loop of that 80 yr old wire on this last T-post so it would be handy in case some of your folk needed to fix fence. Please don't think I'm a cheapskate for using old wire like that on a splice...that is not the case! I simply needed to pack light to traverse this rough growed up land and that old fence is still there so I could use the wire resource. BTW....chiggers ain't too bad yet.....59 bites at the most! Cheers!
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Yeah, right. I foresee that wire hanging on t post until you use it. I like the idea of spring back e post.
Have fixed many a holes in fence. My own fence pliers was one of the first tools I owned. Will have to study the Texas stretcher
 
Frustrated with the neighbor a little? Doesn't sound like he care about fence much... he might not even know that have of the fence is his responsibility. Or he might know and not care because he doesn't have cattle.

Never used a Texas fixer before. I watched a video on it. Looks like a good tool. I use a longer type stretcher. In a lot of cases our repairs need to be pulled farther than that would reach but it would sure be handy to tighten some spots!



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I have a couple of plants I'm curious about id's on. Do you know what they are?
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I guess I am just funny in a way but when we bought our place it was only fenced between us and our north neighbor along 1320 feet...that distance has now increased to 1980 feet. He has cattle and I do not. I really feel that fence is his responsibility as I have nothing that is going to pass from my side and cause damage to his but the exact opposite holds true...yes on our place cattle = damage. I have had to chase his cattle out and I have had to fix that fence myself as damage control but if I wasn't extensively managing my place for deer and didn't care I would just go to the lake too...

On the fence I have built on the other 3 sides I asked for no help from any neighbors. My wife and I bought all materials and I did the work with help from friends and family when they were available. I have had the fence breached 5 times along our east line by dead trees from the neighbor side falling on them. I have never even had the slightest thought that the neighbor should pay or help. They never wanted a fence to begin with but once the property line is reached they have no control. I just fix and move on as needed by myself.

My west neighbor is going to see a little bit of new fence behind their house come next winter...I won't require them to help because I am sure they won't want it...only 660 feet required and since that 10 is already fenced on other 3 sides I will be done with it...

Does your neighbor have livestock?

Gonna have livestock...you had better be ready to build and upkeep fence...
 
It is not a frustration with any particular neighbor...some have cattle some don't....some of us talk and some don't....none of us are in a feud or quarrel. If one will read a little deeper into that post, then you will understand I am more disheartened with land transferring ownership or land abandonment from ag use in general...trying to raise a little awareness in the younger readers. There is a vast majority of folks out there today who simply don't care about anything more than information stated on a deed and there is an equal share who want to use the land for recreation but certainly will do no more than entitle themselves to that gift. There can really be some bad things happen when one is no more involved than owning 'paper land'. My wife should write a book on 'Avoiding Issues with Titles and Deed!' Take this example, a house and out buildings were built on a small parcel 10 years ago....an adjoining neighbor is being foreclosed upon....turns out the house and out buildings actually reside upon the neighbors land....the only land which the homedwellers truly own in their front yard! Wonder what the stress is like at that dinner table!

We have also gotten away from the concept of 'neighbors helping neighbors'...and we have gotten away from actually 'seeing' every part of that we supposedly own (land)...or...co-own (perimeter fencing)!

These observations point toward a moral decay of current society. A perimeter fence should be viewed as 'our asset' not 'owner A' or 'owner B' asset based upon how each uses their parcel. IF each party were to take a little time to maintain 'our asset', then the world would turn a little easier (especially the on more active on his parcel). Unfortunately what happens most cases, is that a shared asset is attended by no one....like other metal assets unmaintained, it then rusts and rots....in the end leaving no asset of value instead a debt to be inherited! We certainly don't need gov't intervention in the form of laws to spell out common sense...or do we? Do we want to pass down debt as inheritance? Do we not want to pass down the knowledge of 'fence repair'? Do many other folks really not see the true land degradation which occurs when livestock are removed? Who would want to lease and put livestock on land where he has to build fence and repair ponds? What happens to land lease value in that case?

The 1972 fence was kinda like Johnny mentions.....families were out there, neighbors were helping neighbors, and the logical access route for the new fence was on the neighbors side. That is why the wire is on the neighbors side of the posts!

I spend time fixing fence when repair is needed....that usually provides ample time to reflect upon deeper issues of land ownership!

+
 
I have a couple of plants I'm curious about id's on. Do you know what they are?
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I don't know the names....first one looks familiar....probably in the aster family. The second looks like a native legume.....in the mimosa, prairie clover, or bundlefower tribe.
 
Yeah, right. I foresee that wire hanging on t post until you use it. I like the idea of spring back e post.
Have fixed many a holes in fence. My own fence pliers was one of the first tools I owned. Will have to study the Texas stretcher

At least the wire hoop is off the ground so it won't rot! You would be surprised how much more integrity that 80 yr old wire has if it were cut from a piece off the ground!

Well the TX tool ain't too hard to figure out....and if it won't tighten the wire enough, then you need to cut that wire and use a regular C-type fence stretcher anyhow (so have one handy)....slack will be enough where you don't need a splice wire for the C tool....just 'tight twist' the cut ends back together!

You leverage the TX tool against your hip to tighten wire then lock down chain. Cut a suitable length of splice wire....twist both tag ends around wire outside of tool in one direction, then twist both wires inside tool frame with plier handle in the opposite direction the tag ends were twisted. This will keep the wire from untwisting over time. The twisting sets the final bit of tension, and when done right the tool comes off easily! Good high tensile barbed wire is twisted like this....twist changes direction at each barb...that reduces 'stretch'!

Doc Cooke puts a tensioner in the middle of a barbed wire run.....says it takes the pressure off corners....I keep telling Doc he needs some pipe or rock basket corners with leverage to pull from!
 
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