Eagle or Real World Soybeans

[BoneCrusher20]

Will be that time of year again soon.

In the past i've planted northern blend of Eagle soybeans. struggled with having lot of lot season forage with cold falls in WI. Got wind of Real World Soybeans and others in my area having better luck with them for shatter resistant qualities and still have great forage.

Experiences with either? Pro/Cons of each?

 

[Baker]

Along the lines of this question, are either of those choices non GMO ?

 

[cutman]

I believe they are both GMO, but there are non-GMO forage beans available (that are much cheaper than Eagles).

Here is my experience with Eagle beans last year:

http://deerhunterforum.com/index.php?threads/2019-eagle-beans.5043/

 

[Baker]

I believe they are both GMO, but there are non-GMO forage beans available (that are much cheaper than Eagles).

Here is my experience with Eagle beans last year:

http://deerhunterforum.com/index.php?threads/2019-eagle-beans.5043/

Thanks, and following up once again, any recommendations on a non GMO forage bean for the south. I'm going to try about 5 acres of pure forage beans [ no mix ] then come fall drill small grains and clovers into the beans without terminating. I see where Dr.Grant Woods does that. I have a lt of respect for him and going to experiment with that method.

 

[Triple C]

While we're on this subject, I have a question I hope someone can answer. It's been at least 6 years since we planted summer forage. Gonna give it a go this year in a 6 acre plot with a mix of IC peas, sunflower and grain sorghum. In years past, we would plant 1st of May, get great germination and even managed to have beans survive until frost but the summer grasses were terrible.

Here's my question...
If we spray the field with gly middle of May just when the summer grasses are starting to come on strong and then plant at the end of May, will we have successfully avoided much of the grass infestation that would normally take place by just planting into standing grains the 1st of May?

 

[cutman]

Thanks, and following up once again, any recommendations on a non GMO forage bean for the south. I'm going to try about 5 acres of pure forage beans [ no mix ] then come fall drill small grains and clovers into the beans without terminating. I see where Dr.Grant Woods does that. I have a lt of respect for him and going to experiment with that method.

I’m thinking that my co-op got me Tyrone soybeans. They are non GMO forage beans if I remember correctly, and they were relatively cheap. Tara is another forage bean but I think that’s for more northern climates.

 

[cutman]

While we're on this subject, I have a question I hope someone can answer. It's been at least 6 years since we planted summer forage. Gonna give it a go this year in a 6 acre plot with a mix of IC peas, sunflower and grain sorghum. In years past, we would plant 1st of May, get great germination and even managed to have beans survive until frost but the summer grasses were terrible.

Here's my question...
If we spray the field with gly middle of May just when the summer grasses are starting to come on strong and then plant at the end of May, will we have successfully avoided much of the grass infestation that would normally take place by just planting into standing grains the 1st of May?

Are you going to disk before planting or no-till into the dead grass? If you no-till that will buy you a month (maybe less). If you disk then your new grass weeds will sprout pretty much immediately.

Grasses, sicklepod, and yellow nutsedge are my big summer weeds. Glyphosate buys you time but it does not control them long term. Unless you get into residual herbicides you need to focus on no-till to control grasses, but even that is ultimately a losing battle.

 

[Baker]

While we're on this subject, I have a question I hope someone can answer. It's been at least 6 years since we planted summer forage. Gonna give it a go this year in a 6 acre plot with a mix of IC peas, sunflower and grain sorghum. In years past, we would plant 1st of May, get great germination and even managed to have beans survive until frost but the summer grasses were terrible.

Here's my question...
If we spray the field with gly middle of May just when the summer grasses are starting to come on strong and then plant at the end of May, will we have successfully avoided much of the grass infestation that would normally take place by just planting into standing grains the 1st of May?

Another option is stick with the 1st of May planting...assuming moisture is good. Spray the field with gly prior to planting if it has issues, but rather than grain sorghum, go with a non grass such as okra or sunn hemp--which the peas will climb. This will allow you to spray with cleth after germination killing grass and giving the cultivars time to get ahead of future grass germination.

 

[TreeDaddy]

Another option is stick with the 1st of May planting...assuming moisture is good. Spray the field with gly prior to planting if it has issues, but rather than grain sorghum, go with a non grass such as okra or sunn hemp--which the peas will climb. This will allow you to spray with cleth after germination killing grass and giving the cultivars time to get ahead of future grass germination.

"Assuming moisture is good" is the operative phrase for me......

bill

 

[swat1018]

The Real World aren't really a magic bullet, just an Ag bean selected for shatter resistance. I've planted left over beans for years, whatever I could get for free. I had a bad shatter issue one year. Never seen any issues the other years. To me it wouldn't be worth the premium.

 

[Triple C]

Are you going to disk before planting or no-till into the dead grass? If you no-till that will buy you a month (maybe less). If you disk then your new grass weeds will sprout pretty much immediately.

Grasses, sicklepod, and yellow nutsedge are my big summer weeds. Glyphosate buys you time but it does not control them long term. Unless you get into residual herbicides you need to focus on no-till to control grasses, but even that is ultimately a losing battle.

Very minimal soil disturbance using a one-pass planter (Plotmaster). Spray...wait bout 3 weeks and plant into thatch. Harrows open a furrow and seedbox drops seeds, covered by cultipacker.

 

[cutman]

Can you plant then spray before your seed germinates? That will give you a major head start over the weeds.

 

[dogghr]

As to OPs question. I'm not an expert but I do know soybeans are one of the more difficult crops to maturity plan especially those not in the south. The RW beans you mention, and really so for Eagles, to go a cheaper route with coop beans, when planting it can be productive for a food plotter to choose a later maturing class of beans so they reach the R1 stage later, providing more hunting season opportunities . I.E. , if I'm in a typical zone for beans of maturity rate of 4, then it can be an advantage to choose a later maturity/5 or 6 or one of the 10 mid classifications such as a 4.7 or 5.3, etc. Or, if you want an earlier maturation to R then opposite is true.
Also for any planting date, it takes about 10 days longer to reach R1 stage for any maturity group as you move up in classification.
Speaking from experience , talking to the local guys at the feed store is a huge plus as they have good understanding of local effects and even if they don't carry a seed, are usually good at ordering such at very competitive prices. Support your local guys.

 

[George]

The Real World aren't really a magic bullet, just an Ag bean selected for shatter resistance. I've planted left over beans for years, whatever I could get for free. I had a bad shatter issue one year. Never seen any issues the other years. To me it wouldn't be worth the premium.

I couldn't say if RW still uses the same mediocre at best R1 ag beans that they did back years ago or not. The shatter resistance of those beans tested out mediocre. Don was using later maturing beans to give the illusion of superior shatter resistance. The truth is all ag beans are shatter resistant or they would all be on the ground and not in the combine hopper. Don wasn't too happy with me back then when I called him out on his magic beans. The only difference back then between his magic beans and other mediocre ag beans was his 125% markup.

PS after posting I see that Doug already mentioned the shatter resistance illusion.

G

 

[Jeff H]

Another option is stick with the 1st of May planting...assuming moisture is good. Spray the field with gly prior to planting if it has issues, but rather than grain sorghum, go with a non grass such as okra or sunn hemp--which the peas will climb. This will allow you to spray with cleth after germination killing grass and giving the cultivars time to get ahead of future grass germination.

I'm loving this idea !

 

[DocHolladay]

I’m thinking that my co-op got me Tyrone soybeans. They are non GMO forage beans if I remember correctly, and they were relatively cheap. Tara is another forage bean but I think that’s for more northern climates.

My local seed company gets me Hutchison Forage Beans. They are non GMO. I was told that I can’t spray them with gly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Drycreek]

I’ve used both Eagle and RW beans. I had a situation where I had to go RR beans for three years to exterminate pigweed from a plot. Two years of Eagles, the third year RW. I couldn’t tell much difference in them and neither was better than IC peas imo but much more expensive.

 

[BoneCrusher20]

I’ve used both Eagle and RW beans. I had a situation where I had to go RR beans for three years to exterminate pigweed from a plot. Two years of Eagles, the third year RW. I couldn’t tell much difference in them and neither was better than IC peas imo but much more expensive.

Speaking of which I have some round up resistant pig weed on one of my fields 15 acre. Any suggestions. Been kicking my butt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Drycreek]

Speaking of which I have some round up resistant pig weed on one of my fields 15 acre. Any suggestions. Been kicking my butt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As I said, I spent three years knocking the crap out of mine before I got it all. I hand pulled it the first year but I think it had already went to seed. Then three years of RR beans and one year sprayed it twice. I got the pigweed from feed store beans that I planted one year so there was no long term seed bank that I was dealing with. I also mixed my gly pretty hot because I didn’t want to take any chances on it becoming gly resistant. I also came up with another foreign weed that I can’t remember the name, but my biologist said it was from Kansas. I controlled that one by pulling up plants when they were small and mowing before they seeded. I sold that place a couple years later so I’m not sure what it looks like now. I feel like, but don’t know for sure, that the guy that bought it is not gonna work his butt off on that place like I did. He had plenty of money but he’s over two hours away so he won’t be there to handle things like I was.

 

[catscratch]

Speaking of which I have some round up resistant pig weed on one of my fields 15 acre. Any suggestions. Been kicking my butt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Liberty beans.