Building a deer blind

[Adam]

I'm looking for opinions on building your own stand. I haven't decided the size but I'm leaning toward a 4x6 size and 8 to 7 feet tall (sloping roof). So far I plan on using treated lumber through out and painting the outside to help with longevity. I'll have it elevated roughly a foot off of the ground. I'll be installing a lower and upper vent so I dont kill myself running a heater. I plan on insulating all walls and roof with 1 inch thick foam and then stapling black out door carpet throughout the inside for multiple purposes. For windows I am planning on sliding plexiglas on the front and sides. I'll also be sealing up every crevice for water and bugs/mice. I would hate to find it chewed up by mice. I'm hoping to make some type of 2x4 frame for the door so that it seals tight.

So is there any criticism? Something that can be done better or something you wish you would have done to your own blind?

Thanks a lot.

 

[willy]

Don't make any smaller than 5x5. 4' really don't give one much room to move, shoulder gun or draw bow if one bow hunts. Also if your there are two hunting in the 4x6 it will be real tight unless both are small in stature. Once you put a heater in there it will take u even more space.

I like your height so one can stand and stretch.

If your going to make it the height you said from the ground it lends itself to being placed on skids to pull to other locales if one desire.

Sloped overhangs on the windows that stick out 16" will keep the sun out of the blind for the most part and help with glare on windows and light in blind as well as keeping rain from getting into window structure. Light weight choroplast could work but fiberglass sheeting, painted will last a long time and is light and easy to work with.

 

[Adam]

Don't make any smaller than 5x5. 4' really don't give one much room to move, shoulder gun or draw bow if one bow hunts. Also if your there are two hunting in the 4x6 it will be real tight unless both are small in stature. Once you put a heater in there it will take u even more space.

I like your height so one can stand and stretch.

If your going to make it the height you said from the ground it lends itself to being placed on skids to pull to other locales if one desire.

Sloped overhangs on the windows that stick out 16" will keep the sun out of the blind for the most part and help with glare on windows and light in blind as well as keeping rain from getting into window structure. Light weight choroplast could work but fiberglass sheeting, painted will last a long time and is light and easy to work with.

Thanks for the reply. I was considering a 4x8 but maybe I'll do a 6x6 instead. I didn't think of the sun shine or rain. I will definitely have to build that above the windows. As far as skids go the plan is me and a buddy will be tipping this over into a 5x8 trailer and haul it by truck or utv to its location, or that is the plan anyway.

 

[144]

I would agree, at least 5x5, mine are 6x6. I used the pink insulation board and painted it black, works great to cut down on noise and silhouettes.


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[144]

Another thing I would mention is to keep an eye on your costs before starting to build. I’m sure you are already considering that, but it seems to get more expensive as you get in to it. Yours will be wood, so probably won’t be near as pricey as my metal stand. But I had no idea at the first how much I was going to end up spending on it, if I did, I would have just bought a prebuilt stand. And that’s pretty much all I have been doing ever since.


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[Adam]

Another thing I would mention is to keep an eye on your costs before starting to build. I’m sure you are already considering that, but it seems to get more expensive as you get in to it. Yours will be wood, so probably won’t be near as pricey as my metal stand. But I had no idea at the first how much I was going to end up spending on it, if I did, I would have just bought a prebuilt stand. And that’s pretty much all I have been doing ever since.


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I'm expecting 600 to 750

 

[FL Plotter]

- I think your cost estimate is right on.
- I've got 4x4s and 5x5s and hunt alone mostly. The 5x5s are much nicer for you and your gear.
- If you have carpenter bees in your area, paint any exposed wood, even if it's under your floor.
- I plywood my roofs, then tar paper, then add the tin. Makes it much more quiet inside when it rains.
- 3/4" treated plywood for floor is a must. I used 1/2" and it flexes a bit even on 16" centers.
- I carpet my floors. Spray foam from the bottom framing would cut down noise more, but I never did it.
- I used exterior grade 3/8 plywood for my walls and then painted it with petroleum based paint. I've got some rot on my 8 year old condos on the edges and any place like an exposed knot hole that holds water. I should slather another layer on them.

For windows, Deer View windows are pretty slick as you open them from the inside, but you have to design your window sill so it sheds water off the lip.

All my windows use the plywood from the hole itself, then I add a treated lip to cover the cutline. They swing out and I prop them with a pre-cut board....never been busted. I have a glass panel in them, so when they are closed, I can see out, but you can't really see in. Where windows and doors hinge, I cover that crack with a piece of rubber baseboard stapled on. It's kinda stiff below freezing but it doesn't freeze much in Florida.

Here are some pics of my 5x5s:

 

[Doe Shooter]

Pitched roof not necessary. It wastes material. Nothing will never be built level. Close to level maybe. The only thing perfectly level is a water puddle. Water will find a way off the roof. Mice will get in. Count on it and they love foam insulation. Squirrels love to chew on wood. I treat my wood with a mixture of mineral spirits, paraffin, linseed oil and a splash of used motor oil heated up on a hotplate discourages chewing critters and is a good primer preservative. I have no insulation in any of my boxes. You don't need it or a heater. A good office chair and a couple blankets ,you're good to zero.Getting out of the wind is the key to staying warm. If you can get some sun shining in all the better. Paint it black. 25 years experience building them on my own place.

 

[Adam]

Pitched roof not necessary. It wastes material. Nothing will never be built level. Close to level maybe. The only thing perfectly level is a water puddle. Water will find a way off the roof. Mice will get in. Count on it and they love foam insulation. Squirrels love to chew on wood. I treat my wood with a mixture of mineral spirits, paraffin, linseed oil and a splash of used motor oil heated up on a hotplate discourages chewing critters and is a good primer preservative. I have no insulation in any of my boxes. You don't need it or a heater. A good office chair and a couple blankets ,you're good to zero.Getting out of the wind is the key to staying warm. If you can get some sun shining in all the better. Paint it black. 25 years experience building them on my own place.

Thanks for the reply. I have found over time that plywood bows and will create puddles. I learned that when I built my dogs their 4x4 house. The insulation isnt there so much for heating purposes. I want it for sound deadening. I'm as determined to keep those mice out as much as they are determined to get in. Everything will be sealed tightly to where something as small as bugs could get in and even those areas will get caulked or spray foamed. My goal is to leave that stand mid December and come back in October and have no signs of any critters getting in.
As far as the heater goes, I already have it and I'll be leaving it in there unless I go camping during the winter. Maybe I'll need it maybe not. I'd rather have it and not need it though.

 

[Adam]

- I think your cost estimate is right on.
- I've got 4x4s and 5x5s and hunt alone mostly. The 5x5s are much nicer for you and your gear.
- If you have carpenter bees in your area, paint any exposed wood, even if it's under your floor.
- I plywood my roofs, then tar paper, then add the tin. Makes it much more quiet inside when it rains.
- 3/4" treated plywood for floor is a must. I used 1/2" and it flexes a bit even on 16" centers.
- I carpet my floors. Spray foam from the bottom framing would cut down noise more, but I never did it.
- I used exterior grade 3/8 plywood for my walls and then painted it with petroleum based paint. I've got some rot on my 8 year old condos on the edges and any place like an exposed knot hole that holds water. I should slather another layer on them.

For windows, Deer View windows are pretty slick as you open them from the inside, but you have to design your window sill so it sheds water off the lip.

All my windows use the plywood from the hole itself, then I add a treated lip to cover the cutline. They swing out and I prop them with a pre-cut board....never been busted. I have a glass panel in them, so when they are closed, I can see out, but you can't really see in. Where windows and doors hinge, I cover that crack with a piece of rubber baseboard stapled on. It's kinda stiff below freezing but it doesn't freeze much in Florida.

Here are some pics of my 5x5s:
View attachment 12978 View attachment 12979 View attachment 12980

Thanks for the reply. You know I wouldn't have painted the bottom but it makes sense to because of those bees, hate them. I have been concerned about waterproofing the windows and doors. I was thinking of some rubber like on the bottom of the garage door. Just pull the window or door closed hard and then I'll have a latch to keep it there. I'm hoping with regular maintenance this blind will last me the rest of my life with minimal repairs.

 

[Doe Shooter]

Thanks for the reply. I have found over time that plywood bows and will create puddles. I learned that when I built my dogs their 4x4 house. The insulation isnt there so much for heating purposes. I want it for sound deadening. I'm as determined to keep those mice out as much as they are determined to get in. Everything will be sealed tightly to where something as small as bugs could get in and even those areas will get caulked or spray foamed. My goal is to leave that stand mid December and come back in October and have no signs of any critters getting in.
As far as the heater goes, I already have it and I'll be leaving it in there unless I go camping during the winter. Maybe I'll need it maybe not. I'd rather have it and not need it though.

You're not using metal, rubber, or that white (forget the name,TPO) roof covering? I still closed the roof in with plywood and covered with durable roofing. Oldest one still solid since 94.

 

[Adam]

You're not using metal, rubber, or that white (forget the name) roof covering? I still closed the roof in with plywood and covered with durable roofing. Oldest one still solid since 94.

I haven't in the past. I usually just painted and replaced as needed, every few years. My slopes one has gone 5 years and looks like itll get another 3. I use only screws when making these thing to make repairs a little easier.

 

[j-bird]

Biggest thing is simply having enough room, one person, two people, gun, bow, whatever. Nothing worse than not having room when you need it. I like large windows. Yet I use a guillotine type window cover to open it only as far as I need to. I then have a plexiglass/lexan interior panel to keep the wind down. This can keep the window very narrow while I can still see nearly 360 degrees. I would suggest putting something on the roof - and a flat roof is fine. Water sitting on wood is bad. I also like the idea of being able to move it easily if needed. If you go higher than a few feet - you need a landing/platform and steps....not a ladder....steps. I don't worry about painting the outside except to protect from the weather. The deer know it's there.....might as well paint it bright orange. Carpet on the floor is a must. I have painted the inside of one of mine black and I am not sure it makes a real difference. I make mine in a modular manner as it's easier to build at home and then transport the pieces to the woods and assemble on site. Screws and bolts....no nails if it can be prevented. Also make sure you use good decking screws and not cheap ones. The cheaper ones will rust and the heads will snap off. Shelves and easy to reach hooks and the like really help as well. I hate having to dig out my stuff when I need it. I prefer to have it all out and ready to go. Do not put any wood (even treated) directly on the ground. Use concrete pavers and the like to create a nice bearing surface that won't hold water. This will reduce rot and help keep things fairly level. Keep any hand operated latches and the like large and simple. It sucks when it's cold and dark and you can't get the damn things to work properly!

 

[Adam]

Biggest thing is simply having enough room, one person, two people, gun, bow, whatever. Nothing worse than not having room when you need it. I like large windows. Yet I use a guillotine type window cover to open it only as far as I need to. I then have a plexiglass/lexan interior panel to keep the wind down. This can keep the window very narrow while I can still see nearly 360 degrees. I would suggest putting something on the roof - and a flat roof is fine. Water sitting on wood is bad. I also like the idea of being able to move it easily if needed. If you go higher than a few feet - you need a landing/platform and steps....not a ladder....steps. I don't worry about painting the outside except to protect from the weather. The deer know it's there.....might as well paint it bright orange. Carpet on the floor is a must. I have painted the inside of one of mine black and I am not sure it makes a real difference. I make mine in a modular manner as it's easier to build at home and then transport the pieces to the woods and assemble on site. Screws and bolts....no nails if it can be prevented. Also make sure you use good decking screws and not cheap ones. The cheaper ones will rust and the heads will snap off. Shelves and easy to reach hooks and the like really help as well. I hate having to dig out my stuff when I need it. I prefer to have it all out and ready to go. Do not put any wood (even treated) directly on the ground. Use concrete pavers and the like to create a nice bearing surface that won't hold water. This will reduce rot and help keep things fairly level. Keep any hand operated latches and the like large and simple. It sucks when it's cold and dark and you can't get the damn things to work properly!

Thanks. I dont use nails on anything I build. They're nothing but a pain in my book. I like the idea of large latches. I may bring a pair of gloves in lowes to make sure I can operate them. As far as windows I plan on about a foot maybe a foot and a half tall opening. When I'm building it I'll make the final call. I would like to be able to move and make a little noise (kids) and not get busted for it.

 

[j-bird]

Thanks. I dont use nails on anything I build. They're nothing but a pain in my book. I like the idea of large latches. I may bring a pair of gloves in lowes to make sure I can operate them. As far as windows I plan on about a foot maybe a foot and a half tall opening. When I'm building it I'll make the final call. I would like to be able to move and make a little noise (kids) and not get busted for it.

I take my kids in mine all the time...blinds like this are great for that very purpose. Your window height and configuration will depend on weapon used. For a vertical bow you may want a very different window vs one used for a firearm OR even a X-bow. We only gun hunt from ours. This does however limit our stand choices during archery seasons. You mention keeping the window height narrow. My "guillotine" window covers are fully adjustable and thus you can make the opening essentially as tall or narrow as you wish. I like to do this to reduce being silhouetted. I think being up off the ground further helps reduce the chances of that as well.

 

[Adam]

I take my kids in mine all the time...blinds like this are great for that very purpose. Your window height and configuration will depend on weapon used. For a vertical bow you may want a very different window vs one used for a firearm OR even a X-bow. We only gun hunt from ours. This does however limit our stand choices during archery seasons. You mention keeping the window height narrow. My "guillotine" window covers are fully adjustable and thus you can make the opening essentially as tall or narrow as you wish. I like to do this to reduce being silhouetted. I think being up off the ground further helps reduce the chances of that as well.

I am planning to only use a gun for this. I know the door and windows will be the most difficult part for me to keep out bugs and the weather. Im not wanting to buy windows or door. I think a rubber flap will be enough for the rain and bugs.

 

[Jack Terpack]

I have never built one myself or purchased one either. I have hunted out of many and I have a couple suggestions that i would watch when figuring out the measurements. 1. Most are too small a footprint. Especially if you are going to have large adults one day and two kids along the next. I agree with 5x5 minimum. 2.I have never hunted from any that had good heights for a gun rest. They are always too high for most people. If you have children or ladies that might hunt with you regularly, take some time to sit them in a chair and rest the weapon of choice on a table and measure what is comfortable. Have any child or lady do the same. This is even more important if you are elevated high above your intended target. The difference between the level of a shelf and the bottom of the window is just as important. Experiment before you build. 3. Allow more for cooling the interior than heating it. Weather can change in a heartbeat. It can be below 0 in the morning and warm up to 60 in the afternoon and back down to 0 at dusk. Changing clothes in a crowded room can be a pain. 4. Be careful what you use to cover any wooden flooring. Carpet holds scent and moisture no matter what care you take. I've been in several that stunk to high heaven. Deer will get used to it over time, but big bucks won't. The best I've seen are the 3/4 inch thick rubber floor mats from Tractor supply. Don't glue them down. That way you can take them out and hang them up to air out. My friend even sets his up so he hangs them on the side walls when not in use. 5. Use camo shoot-through netting as curtains inside your windows. I see many of the blinds look camoed from the outside then have a huge black hole when the windows are opened. Big deer don't like changes like that. 6. and lastly, don't over seal it. ventilation in heat or cold is important for comfort and scent control. Small 2" diameter holes at the top and bottom of at least two walls can truly increase comfort and scent control. Make them round and cover the outside with screening. Make plugs to fill the hole from the inside to regulate the air flow. 7. I just thought of one more thing. You can never have too many hooks up high to hang gear. Keep it off the floor because it will get in your way at the worst possible time.

 

[Adam]

I have never built one myself or purchased one either. I have hunted out of many and I have a couple suggestions that i would watch when figuring out the measurements. 1. Most are too small a footprint. Especially if you are going to have large adults one day and two kids along the next. I agree with 5x5 minimum. 2.I have never hunted from any that had good heights for a gun rest. They are always too high for most people. If you have children or ladies that might hunt with you regularly, take some time to sit them in a chair and rest the weapon of choice on a table and measure what is comfortable. Have any child or lady do the same. This is even more important if you are elevated high above your intended target. The difference between the level of a shelf and the bottom of the window is just as important. Experiment before you build. 3. Allow more for cooling the interior than heating it. Weather can change in a heartbeat. It can be below 0 in the morning and warm up to 60 in the afternoon and back down to 0 at dusk. Changing clothes in a crowded room can be a pain. 4. Be careful what you use to cover any wooden flooring. Carpet holds scent and moisture no matter what care you take. I've been in several that stunk to high heaven. Deer will get used to it over time, but big bucks won't. The best I've seen are the 3/4 inch thick rubber floor mats from Tractor supply. Don't glue them down. That way you can take them out and hang them up to air out. My friend even sets his up so he hangs them on the side walls when not in use. 5. Use camo shoot-through netting as curtains inside your windows. I see many of the blinds look camoed from the outside then have a huge black hole when the windows are opened. Big deer don't like changes like that. 6. and lastly, don't over seal it. ventilation in heat or cold is important for comfort and scent control. Small 2" diameter holes at the top and bottom of at least two walls can truly increase comfort and scent control. Make them round and cover the outside with screening. Make plugs to fill the hole from the inside to regulate the air flow. 7. I just thought of one more thing. You can never have too many hooks up high to hang gear. Keep it off the floor because it will get in your way at the worst possible time.

That is a good suggestion on the carpet. As for the shooting window height I was planning on buying a used Barbour chair for the kids. The vents I have covered. I will be using the same type of vent you likely have in your house. I believe they are 16in x 8in. That'll be one on the bottom and one on the top. It'll have a screen for the bugs and will allow me to control how much air movement I want.

 

[Adam]

I remember as a kid how I loved camping, even if it was in the back yard. That said I think the blind could serve that purpose as well. So I think my 6x6 is going to turn into an 8x6 so I can easily lay in it.

 

[144]

Sounds like that price is going up

Might as well get it the way you want, so hopefully you won’t have to mess with it for a long time.

You mentioned using using a rubber flap to seal with. I’ve found that using those vinyl/rubber baseboards help to seal the doors. I’m actually using them on my metal stand, along with weatherstripping to keep the bugs out. You can buy them in 4ft sections in the flooring dept at HD for a couple of bucks. Just a thought.


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