The Forbidden Apple Tree Knowledge Thread

[ng270]

Curious if they came from the same source as the Liberty I got from Snyder Co? Rootstock was G-969. These were just 1/2" caliper (but were at least that; I didn't measure). I paid $19 a pop but SCCD makes no secret that they also use the sale to make some money to support some of their field days for youth, etc.

 

[coolbrze0]

Here's a Granny Smith in my orchard. She's 4 years old, about 1" dia & 7' tall. Has about 200 on her but I'm going to pinch the majority of them...

 

[Native Hunter]

This is just a reminder and friendly warning - don't forget to add bracing to the trees that you topwork. I was going to do this one and some others this week but waited too long. We had strong winds on Friday, and this one snapped off. Now, I will have to let the tree grow back and do it again next year.

 

[KSQ2]

This is just a reminder and friendly warning - don't forget to add bracing to the trees that you topwork. I was going to do this one and some others this week but waited too long. We had strong winds on Friday, and this one snapped off. Now, I will have to let the tree grow back and do it again next year.

Good reminder, I know it’s not an apple, but I need to check the persimmon that took last year, and get it supported.

 

[SwampCat]

This is just a reminder and friendly warning - don't forget to add bracing to the trees that you topwork. I was going to do this one and some others this week but waited too long. We had strong winds on Friday, and this one snapped off. Now, I will have to let the tree grow back and do it again next year.

So, how will the trunk portion that you grafted to fare the rest of the year - will it branch out and then you trim it back - what will become of it.

 

[Native Hunter]

So, how will the trunk portion that you grafted to fare the rest of the year - will it branch out and then you trim it back - what will become of it.

It will branch back out, and when it's time to graft again, I will go about an inch below the first cut and start all over again. I might do it next year, but also might wait two years.

 

[Native Hunter]

Good reminder, I know it’s not an apple, but I need to check the persimmon that took last year, and get it supported.

Yes, persimmons will break off just as easily as apples and pears.

 

[Native Hunter]

Crab apples can be more forgiving and easier to grow than "people apples" if you get the right ones. Some of them also drop at a very good time of the year. The first tree below is a Dolgo and already dropping at a slow but steady pace. The second one is a different variety and mostly holding tight with just a few beginning to hit the ground.

 

[Native Hunter]

I have one correction to make on this thread. Back in Post #88, I said that the pears in the frost pocket had frozen out again this spring. However, I later noticed that this was not completely true. Some of the pear trees had maybe 20% production, and one tree (a Senator Clark) had an incredible crop. Two crabapples in the low spot also had extremely nice crops (Dolgo and Eliza's Choice). One thing I noticed about both the apples and pears in the frost pocket - they matured later than the same varieties on the high ground. My drop times were much later on the low ground trees. Some of the Senator Clarks were still dropping into early November. Best wishes.

 

[Native Hunter]

Bumping this old thread up to help someone asking me a question.

 

[Flatiron75]

Another bump.

I was reading back through this thread, and I saw a number of gripes about B-118 rootstock for grafted trees. I have to echo what you said about B-118 rootstocks being NOT well-anchored. B-118, in my experience in NC Pa., is not a good choice for apple trees. We also have leaning trees after 8 to 10 years in the ground. Our MM-111 rooted trees are rock-solid, as are our trees on Antonovka, Dolgo, and P-18 rootstocks. Any apple or crab trees we lose for any reason will be replaced with trees on Antonovka, Dolgo, MM-111, or P-18 roots. I followed the "B-118, early-fruiting, big tree" advice, and have found that advice to be lacking. Thankfully we have many other apple & crab trees on better rootstocks. No more B-118's for us. Free-standing, well-anchored trees only here.

Thank-you for this thread, Native!! Good info in it.

 

[Native Hunter]

Another bump.

I was reading back through this thread, and I saw a number of gripes about B-118 rootstock for grafted trees. I have to echo what you said about B-118 rootstocks being NOT well-anchored. B-118, in my experience in NC Pa., is not a good choice for apple trees. We also have leaning trees after 8 to 10 years in the ground. Our MM-111 rooted trees are rock-solid, as are our trees on Antonovka, Dolgo, and P-18 rootstocks. Any apple or crab trees we lose for any reason will be replaced with trees on Antonovka, Dolgo, MM-111, or P-18 roots. I followed the "B-118, early-fruiting, big tree" advice, and have found that advice to be lacking. Thankfully we have many other apple & crab trees on better rootstocks. No more B-118's for us. Free-standing, well-anchored trees only here.

Thank-you for this thread, Native!! Good info in it.

Thanks Flatiron75 for sharing your experience. Very good information.