Plateau??

KSQ2

Well-Known Member
The local extension agent recommended Plateau (imazapic) for bindweed control. Has anyone ever used this?
 
See my response in your other post. Yes, I have used it for prairies but never for a food plot.
Another question for you Native. Is imazapic and imazapyr the same chemical? I was told by a website it was a suitable substitute.
 
If I understood the literature correctly, it was citing the use of both chemicals as pre-emergents. Right? I wonder if that would make a difference. Also, are you comfortable with the use of dicamba? Another growing season option according to K-State research is dicamba mixed with 2,4-d.
 
If I understood the literature correctly, it was citing the use of both chemicals as pre-emergents. Right? I wonder if that would make a difference. Also, are you comfortable with the use of dicamba? Another growing season option according to K-State research is dicamba mixed with 2,4-d.
It will make a difference. I've never used dicamba, but I wouldn't worry about it where you are using it.
 
I should say that I’m going to try to be very careful. But I will be spraying in reasonably close proximity to fruit and oak trees. That would make me very nervous about crossbow.
 
I should say that I’m going to try to be very careful. But I will be spraying in reasonably close proximity to fruit and oak trees. That would make me very nervous about crossbow.
You better read this:
 
Goodness the more I read about some of these broadleaf killers, the more I think I’m better off with the bindweed!
 
You better read this:
One last question for now Native. Even the plateau, which was most recommended by the agent, has a warning in the label about chemical getting to tree and shrub root systems. All of this considered, what do you think about the possibility of just spraying the half acre or so area with glyphosate and killing everything? Would the grasses and native forbs rebound eventually? I’m kind of at a loss here. Pre-emergents that stay in the ground for a length of time make me nervous too; so I’m not sure that’s an option next spring while trees are still dormant.
 
One last question for now Native. Even the plateau, which was most recommended by the agent, has a warning in the label about chemical getting to tree and shrub root systems. All of this considered, what do you think about the possibility of just spraying the half acre or so area with glyphosate and killing everything? Would the grasses and native forbs rebound eventually? I’m kind of at a loss here. Pre-emergents that stay in the ground for a length of time make me nervous too; so I’m not sure that’s an option next spring while trees are still dormant.

Why not just mow the bindweed? It won't survive much mowing. Mow it once and then mow more later if needed. I wouldn't just kill everything with gly, because you can't be sure what will come back out of the seedbank.
 
Why not just mow the bindweed? It won't survive much mowing. Mow it once and then mow more later if needed. I wouldn't just kill everything with gly, because you can't be sure what will come back out of the seedbank.
The extension office said bindweed survives mowing. Would I just mow hoping to keep it knocked back enough to keep it from spreading? I’m assuming it slows down later in the year, when I’d rather not be mowing in there this late summer and fall. I’ve done the hard part already, by mowing it (smooth brohm, some fescue, and bermuda) when it was very tall, I like that part of your suggestion. All that said, I will take your word over theirs, if you’ve successfully managed the bindweed by mowing.
 
The problem with bindweed is how easy it spreads. There is seed of course, but also if you pull bindweed out of the ground you can see the white subterranean stem has what looks like little undeveloped leaves all along it. Drop that white part on the ground and it will grow from that too. I have heard that spraying after a frost will help as it is trying to draw nutrients down into the roots. It’s almost like a hydra. Cut off one stem and it may get replaced with three.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The extension office said bindweed survives mowing. Would I just mow hoping to keep it knocked back enough to keep it from spreading? I’m assuming it slows down later in the year, when I’d rather not be mowing in there this late summer and fall. I’ve done the hard part already, by mowing it (smooth brohm, some fescue, and bermuda) when it was very tall, I like that part of your suggestion. All that said, I will take your word over theirs, if you’ve successfully managed the bindweed by mowing.

Bindweed is all over the road right of way and fence bordering my yard. However, it is not in my yard. Why….? It will not withstand close and constant mowing like my grass. Good luck with whatever you do..........................
 
Last edited:
The local extension agent recommended Plateau (imazapic) for bindweed control. Has anyone ever used this?

I'm in the same quandary with my jap stilt grass, looked at milestone, plateau, acclaim, thought about just using gly as in the past. Bought a gallon of cleth.

G
 
I use panoramic but I use for johnson grass in NWSG as it's generic for plateau.I would just mow the bindweed also.I am trying to figure out what to use on marestail in alfalfa
 
Yes but is probably 10 inches tall,I ordered Octivia,Supposed to be good to use in clover.alfalfa,chicory for broadleafs
 
Here at the Ponderosa with an annual rainfall of 18" I cannot raise continuous winter wheat so I summer fallow(half the land in wheat the other in fallow). I have a lot of bindweed and am working on it but it is a big battle. What I am doing is waiting for a good frost or freeze and have the coop spray the fallow ground with Tordon when the bindweed is taking nutrients down to the roots. There is a residual , I don't remember how many months off the top of my head, but it will be gone by the time I am ready to plant wheat on that ground ten months later.
 
Back
Top