Orchard....

[David]

From a 30,000 foot view what advice do yall have for planting a fruit tree orchard for a pre exisiting stand sight.

It's over a clover plot. With 2 stands looking over it for various winds.

I'm not asking about growing fruit trees, more along the lines of what are some mistakes yall made that you regret?

Plant them in the actual plot?
Or instead plant them adjacent to it?
Plant them in a pattern that creates natural shooting lanes as they mature?
Plant them in rows for future maintinance while mowing?

My initial plan is 30-40 trees. It's a one acre clover plot in a 5 acre field that is going to recieve a controlled burn this winter. The balance is going to be kept in early successional managment. Space is not a problem, this site is for rifle.


Thanks

David

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[lakngolf]

In center, in rows, for easy mowing. Probably keep clover going among them. Avoid edges or other trees will canopy and intrude

 

[David]

In center, in rows, for easy mowing. Probably keep clover going among them. Avoid edges or other trees will canopy and intrude

Thanks! Keep em coming!

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[dtabor]

I find that the ones I put IN my plots hinder my ability to conveniently spray when I want/need to. Im always having to worry that any slight breeze will drift Gly onto my trees. It can be done, just takes more planning and precautions. If I had it to do over I would plant either on the outside and then cut around to make sure they arent canopied or create a specific tree plot.

 

[dtabor]

Also, have to remember that when they get larger, their roots will spread alot wider as well and arent that far under the surface so any future tilling/discing you have to be careful of

 

[David]

Also, have to remember that when they get larger, their roots will spread alot wider as well and arent that far under the surface so any future tilling/discing you have to be careful of

thumbs up, thanks

 

[j-bird]

I am by far an expert and I may regret my choices in the future, but.....

I have done pretty much what you are asking about....in planting fruit tress into existing clover plots. Now in my case the area around these plots is very open so I don't have any significant competition from the "woods" so to speak. My plots are surrounded by a buffer strip of CRP/weeds between the plots and the woods so this offers me a lot of light and breeze exposure and the like as well.

I don't bow hunt these plots - I gun hunt over them and then set up the bow stands to hunt the trails that lead to/from them. I would suggest planting trees in rows. It simply makes mowing and the like easier. Make sure you plant in wide enough rows to accommodate your equipment....mowers AND sprayers! Wide rows will allow the clover to grow as the trees mature and keep equipment from snagging on cages and or the trees themselves. I plant semi dwarf fruit trees in an effort to ensure some light will continue to fuel the clover plot. I am sure at some point the trees will steal from the clover plot, but I feel it's worth it. I have limited space for plotting and this is one way I can make the most use out of the area I do have and implement a much more long term food source. Hopefully these trees will be feeding deer long after I am gone. I have done this with fruit trees, chestnut trees and even some sawtooth oaks. Like I said - at some point I may regret my decisions.....only time will tell.

 

[Tap]

I'm not sure if this is right or wrong but it's what I did. Instead of 1single orchard, I planted in several small orchards spread around. And I planted them in corners and cover breaks. My thoughts were that several orchards will help to keep bucks busy on MY property. They can't quickly check for does in one spot and then move on to the neighbor's to get shot.
Several orchards help to spread deer out which relieves herd stress and competition. It also gives more stand options.
Several orchards help guard against loss to frost. Sometimes spots on the property are more prone to frost.
I also planted in some areas that have some bolders slightly exposed just enough to be a hazard when mowing or tilling. I plant trees as markers for obstacles.

 

[Triple C]

Another great thread! 7 years of doing this here's what I've discovered with orchard/fruit trees. If you ever think you will expand your food plot beyond it's current size then plant according to expansion. We planted 5 Keiffer / Orient pears in our largest field in the spring of 2l012. After our last logging, those pears went from being near the tree line to out in the middle of the plot. We moved them in the winter of 2016 and these were fairly large pear trees. With the ample rain fall, they all have survived so far and look healthy. They are now planted in the corner of the plot in an area that won't be expanded or will never have logging equipment on it. When we logged, I had another corner completely clear cut just for more fruit trees and planted 7 apple trees in this section. We have native persimmons in a couple more areas. I like them grouped in corners or sections where you don't have to work the ground around them. The plan is to have clover growing in and around our orchard areas.

Last advice...Plant them if possible on the highest ground in the plot. Frost always settles first in the low areas. Ask me how I know! Lots of frost nipped buds.

 

[Chipdasqrrl]

Like Triple C said, definitely make sure not to plant the trees in low areas.


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[David]

Another great thread! 7 years of doing this here's what I've discovered with orchard/fruit trees. If you ever think you will expand your food plot beyond it's current size then plant according to expansion. We planted 5 Keiffer / Orient pears in our largest field in the spring of 2l012. After our last logging, those pears went from being near the tree line to out in the middle of the plot. We moved them in the winter of 2016 and these were fairly large pear trees. With the ample rain fall, they all have survived so far and look healthy. They are now planted in the corner of the plot in an area that won't be expanded or will never have logging equipment on it. When we logged, I had another corner completely clear cut just for more fruit trees and planted 7 apple trees in this section. We have native persimmons in a couple more areas. I like them grouped in corners or sections where you don't have to work the ground around them. The plan is to have clover growing in and around our orchard areas.

Last advice...Plant them if possible on the highest ground in the plot. Frost always settles first in the low areas. Ask me how I know! Lots of frost nipped buds.

After the plot expansion, how far from a tree line were they? 50 yards? 500 yards?

Why did you decide to move them? Too exposed?


I plan on putting the Orchard just south of the plot (red/brown soil area).

It will run parallel to the plot on the north of the light green road in the picture.

Meaning deer have to walk through the plot in order to get access to the fruit. Should I flip that? Orchard closer to tree line?

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[buckdeer1]

I really don't know how many fruit trees I have planted in and around plots.Alot of them are producing.The only issue is yes they feed wildlife but not alot after season opens.80% of fruit is gone by Oct 1st.Some years may be different but my trees were loaded,both pear and apple.I really like fruit trees and according to trail cam coyotes eat as many as deer do.I would plant in rows as far apart as you can and keep in mind if you will be trying to rifle hunt the area

 

[Jason Broom]

If I was planting for deer, and not people, I would not plant 30-40 in a traditional orchard layout. As mentioned earlier, plant in pockets of 5-7, with a mix of 2:2:1 apple, crab-apple and pear. Consider similar mixes of nut-producing trees. If you want to combine them, you might have 3 orchards of 10-15 trees, each. While you can manage them as part of a clover patch, recognize that your long-term goal will be fruit production, which means the less growing under the trees, early on, the better.

You always plant in rows, to ensure good spacing. Train them for upright growth, which is different than a traditional orchard method. PLAN on the time and cost of caging each individual tree with concrete wire and at least one 5-ft tall T-post, wrapping the trunk with screen door mesh, surrounding the tree with landscape fabric and weighing that down with gravel. Plan on one or two careful spraying each year for grass or anything else competing around the trees. Realize how much work there is involved.

Once you get fruit and nut trees established, they are relatively low-maintenance, but IMHO, they are a fair amount of work to get going. Planting 30-40, and protecting them properly, is no small feat.

 

[j-bird]

After the plot expansion, how far from a tree line were they? 50 yards? 500 yards?

Why did you decide to move them? Too exposed?


I plan on putting the Orchard just south of the plot (red/brown soil area).

It will run parallel to the plot on the north of the light green road in the picture.

Meaning deer have to walk through the plot in order to get access to the fruit. Should I flip that? Orchard closer to tree line?

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Keep in mind fruit/nut trees are much like a food plot. Small, secluded ones are far more favorable for killing deer and may struggle to create a lot of food, while large open ones will produce the food but can pose challenges from a hunting perspective....especially with weapons of limited range. Plant/plan your orchard(s) according to your desired purpose.

The location you show is fine. Looks like it should get plenty of light and air flow.

 

[Triple C]

After the plot expansion, how far from a tree line were they? 50 yards? 500 yards?

Why did you decide to move them? Too exposed?


I plan on putting the Orchard just south of the plot (red/brown soil area).

It will run parallel to the plot on the north of the light green road in the picture.

Meaning deer have to walk through the plot in order to get access to the fruit. Should I flip that? Orchard closer to

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Over the years we just kept expanding the size of the plot to the point that the existing pear trees were just out of place in a single row about 1/3 of the way into the plot from the tree line. It became a pain to mow and cultivate weaving in and out of the pears. Just seemed out of place. We created 2 nice pockets on either side of the north end of the plot for our planted fruit trees and moved the pears to one of these pockets. Used a CAT 305 mini ex to dig and move them. So far so good. Where the pears once grew is now planted in wheat n clover. But, I'll add that our efforts in producing fruit have been very frustrating. These trees were planted in early 2012 and were 2 yr old trees when we planted. Seems late frost always gets them almost every year. On the other hand...native persimmon trees just keep producing year after year. The longer I do this the more I fall in love with the good ol' persimmon tree. Fruits every year.