New plot, plot expansion, planting

outdoorstom

Active Member
I hired a guy this summer to come in with his excavator and skid steer to clear out the trees and stumps from a plot I expanded. It sits 10 yards from my swamp. He also cleared an area for a new plot near the swamp. I planted these two, plus a third plot with purple topo turnips, groundhog radishes, and dwarf essex rape. C’mon hunting season!
 

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Perhaps you have good soils and don't need to do this, but I would consider a different mix for a new field. If the guy with the excavator and skid-steer, really knows what he is doing, he can save much of the topsoil, but even then sub-soil often gets lifted and it may time time to rebuild OM depending on soil type. Consider a mix of Winer Rye and an annual clover for fall plots using no-till methods. In my area (zone 7A) Crimson clover is a good choice. The legume will begin to fix N into your soil and the mix of N & C from the Winter Rye will help build OM over time. Both of these do well with infertile soils. It is fine to add a small amount of GHR to this mix. It will provide some organic tillage.

The mix you planted consists of all N-seeking crops with no N-fixing legume.

Having said that, don't worry, you will be fine this year. Just consider more of a balance for the future.

I love the look of the plot and layout and it looks like your guy did a good job from what I can see.
 
I love those pics. That looks like really good deer cover around the perimeter too.
That was my first thought as well ! Looks like low ground and low ground is usually more fertile than hilltops, at least in my area. I grew some of my best white clover plots in a creek bottom on a place I used to own. It was clover from the jump, just as soon as I cleaned it up. It did very well ! Good luck and give us some pics as it progresses.
 
Perhaps you have good soils and don't need to do this, but I would consider a different mix for a new field. If the guy with the excavator and skid-steer, really knows what he is doing, he can save much of the topsoil, but even then sub-soil often gets lifted and it may time time to rebuild OM depending on soil type. Consider a mix of Winer Rye and an annual clover for fall plots using no-till methods. In my area (zone 7A) Crimson clover is a good choice. The legume will begin to fix N into your soil and the mix of N & C from the Winter Rye will help build OM over time. Both of these do well with infertile soils. It is fine to add a small amount of GHR to this mix. It will provide some organic tillage.

The mix you planted consists of all N-seeking crops with no N-fixing legume.

Having said that, don't worry, you will be fine this year. Just consider more of a balance for the future.

I love the look of the plot and layout and it looks like your guy did a good job from what I can see.
Thanks for the informative response. I’ve got winter rye I’m going to spread in any parts of the plot the brassicas don’t do well. The areas closer to the swamp definitely have the best soil. The only tillage I did was scratching the surface with the short tines of my chain harrow. We go to Florida in December for the winter, getting back in May. I know frost seeding is done during the winter, but maybe I should spread clover seed in December?
 
That was my first thought as well ! Looks like low ground and low ground is usually more fertile than hilltops, at least in my area. I grew some of my best white clover plots in a creek bottom on a place I used to own. It was clover from the jump, just as soon as I cleaned it up. It did very well ! Good luck and give us some pics as it progresses.
I’ll update as it progresses.
 
Thanks for the informative response. I’ve got winter rye I’m going to spread in any parts of the plot the brassicas don’t do well. The areas closer to the swamp definitely have the best soil. The only tillage I did was scratching the surface with the short tines of my chain harrow. We go to Florida in December for the winter, getting back in May. I know frost seeding is done during the winter, but maybe I should spread clover seed in December?
Keep in mind that certain plants complement each other. When we plant a monoculture, or even a mix of plants from the same family like brassica, they all want the same nutrients from the soil. So, planting a semi-monoculture of all brassica and then planting WR in spots where they don't do well is different. One thing missing from your description is location. The timing of planting is related to it.

I'm in zone 7A on heavy clay soils with low pH and moderate fertility. Here is how I typically deal with a new plot:

The first thing I do is lime as per soil test. I don't use any commercial fertilizer any more. That significantly cuts cost and deer use my plots just as much if not more than when I did traditional tillage and used commercial fertilizer.

If I start in the spring, I'll plant a mix of buckwheat and sunn hemp. Both germinate quickly and compete well against weeds and do well on infertile soil. Sunn hemp is a legume that fixes N into the soil. Buckwheat is sometimes called "green manure" because it scavenges nutrients and desiccates quickly releasing them for the next crop.

In the first fall, about September, I'll plant a mix of WR and perennial clover. Durana works well in my area. I'll maintain that as a clover plot for many years. The first spring, I'll mow back the WR each time it gets 12"-18" tall back to 6"- 8". This slowly releases the Durana. After that, each year, I'll mow only once in the fall just before our October archery season. You would not even think it was a food plot in the summer. It is covered by all kinds of weed, many of which are great deer food. When the cool nights and rain of all come around after my mowing, the clover takes off and dominates the field. Each year, there is a slightly higher percentage of weeds in the fall. They are attracted to the N that is fixed by the clover. Eventually it is time to rotate.

When I rotate, I'll plant buckwheat in the spring (early June here). Then in the fall, I'll plant a mix of 100 lbs/ac WR, 10 lbs/ac of Crimson Clover (an annual clover that acts as a reseeding annual in my area), 2 lbs/ac of PTT, and 3 lbs/ac of GHR.

I've got two options for the next summer. I can go back to the buckwheat/sunn hemp mix, or I can simply let the WR head out. The crimson clover becomes the food source for spring and early summer. There is some use of the WR heads by deer during the summer as well.

Because it is a mix rather than a monoculture or semi-monoculture of similar plants, I can repeat this cycle over and over.

I'm not suggesting this is the best fit for you. You will need to match the plants and the timing to your location.. I'm just trying to give you and example of how mixing complementary plants can be done.
 
Keep in mind that certain plants complement each other. When we plant a monoculture, or even a mix of plants from the same family like brassica, they all want the same nutrients from the soil. So, planting a semi-monoculture of all brassica and then planting WR in spots where they don't do well is different. One thing missing from your description is location. The timing of planting is related to it.

I'm in zone 7A on heavy clay soils with low pH and moderate fertility. Here is how I typically deal with a new plot:

The first thing I do is lime as per soil test. I don't use any commercial fertilizer any more. That significantly cuts cost and deer use my plots just as much if not more than when I did traditional tillage and used commercial fertilizer.

If I start in the spring, I'll plant a mix of buckwheat and sunn hemp. Both germinate quickly and compete well against weeds and do well on infertile soil. Sunn hemp is a legume that fixes N into the soil. Buckwheat is sometimes called "green manure" because it scavenges nutrients and desiccates quickly releasing them for the next crop.

In the first fall, about September, I'll plant a mix of WR and perennial clover. Durana works well in my area. I'll maintain that as a clover plot for many years. The first spring, I'll mow back the WR each time it gets 12"-18" tall back to 6"- 8". This slowly releases the Durana. After that, each year, I'll mow only once in the fall just before our October archery season. You would not even think it was a food plot in the summer. It is covered by all kinds of weed, many of which are great deer food. When the cool nights and rain of all come around after my mowing, the clover takes off and dominates the field. Each year, there is a slightly higher percentage of weeds in the fall. They are attracted to the N that is fixed by the clover. Eventually it is time to rotate.

When I rotate, I'll plant buckwheat in the spring (early June here). Then in the fall, I'll plant a mix of 100 lbs/ac WR, 10 lbs/ac of Crimson Clover (an annual clover that acts as a reseeding annual in my area), 2 lbs/ac of PTT, and 3 lbs/ac of GHR.

I've got two options for the next summer. I can go back to the buckwheat/sunn hemp mix, or I can simply let the WR head out. The crimson clover becomes the food source for spring and early summer. There is some use of the WR heads by deer during the summer as well.

Because it is a mix rather than a monoculture or semi-monoculture of similar plants, I can repeat this cycle over and over.

I'm not suggesting this is the best fit for you. You will need to match the plants and the timing to your location.. I'm just trying to give you and example of how mixing complementary plants can be done.
Thanks so much for the detailed explanation. I live in zone 4, so quite a difference. I really like the buckwheat idea in the spring. Is that just mowed? Or do you work it into the soil? I think I’ll spread some clover seed in December and see what happens. Thanks again for your help.
 
Thanks so much for the detailed explanation. I live in zone 4, so quite a difference. I really like the buckwheat idea in the spring. Is that just mowed? Or do you work it into the soil? I think I’ll spread some clover seed in December and see what happens. Thanks again for your help.
Yes, zone 4 is different. You might check with guys in your area for annual clover choices. I know some guys further north use Berseem and an annual clover. For buckwheat, or buckwheat/sunn hemp, presuming I've planted WR in the fall, I handle it like this. Buckwheat will germinate at low soil temps, but I find that if I plant it early the crop is lethargic. At a minimum, I want to see 65 degrees, but the optimal soil temp to plant buckwheat is 80 degrees. Keep in mind soil temp is measured between 0800 and 0900 in the morning. Soil thermometers are cheap and an important tool.

I typically just broadcast the seed (for Buckwheat alone it is 40lbs/ac) and for buckwheat/sunn hemp I use 20lbs/ac of each. I broadcast into the standing WR. I then run a cultipacker over it. This lays the WR down over top of the seed so it will act as a much. I then spray herbicide. It terminates the WR and many weeds. I don't like to use the same herbicide over and over again as it can make weeds that are more resistant to that herbicide the dominant weed. So, some years, I'll use gly, and others I'll use generic Liberty. The cultipacker also helps press the seed into the ground, so even if I don't have standing WR when I plant, I'll cultipack and spray to kill weeds. The dead WR laying on the seed helps hold in moisture as well.

None of these seeds here need to be covered as long as you get seed/soil contact. A cultipacker is a great tool for no-till. I have a small Kasco no-till versadrill. I found that for cereal and small seeds, it is faster to broadcast and cultipack and I get results that are just as good. For larger seed like beans or corn, the no-till drill is needed for no-till. The other place I use the drill is for planting directly into a perennial clover field that is getting older. You can mow it flat with a bushhog almost scalping the ground. This top-kill the clover. I can then drill GHR or cereal or whatever into the field. The seed I plant has time to germinate and get a little above the clover before the cooler fall temps cause the clover to bounce back from the root system. Timing is important for this. Here is an example of GHR drilled into clover this way.

01814a24-edac-4ef4-aa57-8aa9e41d13bd.jpg
 
outdoorstorm. I posted my thoughts on starting up a food plot after having a forestry mulcher work it over on the "building organic matter" thread. I would be very interested in hearing about your results.
 
Here’s an update on how the swamp plots are doing. The sweatshirt plot (my BIL lost his sweatshirt one fall in that location before the plot was in. Found it in the spring) has poor germination on one end where the operator scraped off too much topsoil while clearing.. I planted winter rye in that area but haven‘t been out yet to check on it. Overall, I’m pleased. I picked up a drone and the aerial shot shows the 3 plots.
 

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