lawn aerator for throw and mow?

momark

Member
Been trying to come up with something to expose some soil without real tillage. I think a rotary hoe would probably do it but not easy to find in a small size. I don't want something that drags like a spike tooth harrow cause it would rake up the thatch too much. What do you think about a drum-type lawn aerator? Might have to use it before seeding. The spikes are usually 2-3"s so it might bury small seed to deep if done after seeding. Probably would still roll it with a packer after seeding. Any thoughts? Anyone ever try this by chance?
Thanks, Mark
 
Just seems like it would up the odds on germination compared to the "normal" throw and mow/roll methods. Just not sure how it would be on soil after a gly burndown. Don't know if it would be too aggressive or not aggressive enough. Hopefully it would be just right.
 
I aerated my yard before broadcasting seed one yr. Every hole had grass grow in it. The holes gathered seed, probably a combination of bouncing in with spreading and washing in with a rain. Also had more weeds than ever before that yr. Disturbed soil brings out the weedbank.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
I failed to mention what I used; it was a core aerator, not a spike aerator. Fairly different.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
Just really didn’t tear up the ground much. Didn’t see the results I thought it would surely give.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Sounds like it may not be what I'm looking for then.
It sounds like a disc is exactly what you are looking for, and you will get the best of both worlds. A good thatch, with minimal tillage, and the results are fully adjustable to your liking. Used ones are cheap and readily available. Comes in any size, down to ATV. Most are adjustable, either by setting the angle, or by depth control. If running across a heavy thatch that's dead, and you don't want much tillage you will want one that the angle can be set, and then set it pretty straight, and weight it down with some concrete blocks. That way you will just be cutting grooves every disc blade width apart, and throwing a little dirt onto the thatch to help establish seeds. I'd disc, seed, and then disc again for best results.
 
It sounds like a disc is exactly what you are looking for, and you will get the best of both worlds. A good thatch, with minimal tillage, and the results are fully adjustable to your liking. Used ones are cheap and readily available. Comes in any size, down to ATV. Most are adjustable, either by setting the angle, or by depth control. If running across a heavy thatch that's dead, and you don't want much tillage you will want one that the angle can be set, and then set it pretty straight, and weight it down with some concrete blocks. That way you will just be cutting grooves every disc blade width apart, and throwing a little dirt onto the thatch to help establish seeds. I'd disc, seed, and then disc again for best results.

^^^^^^ THIS ^^^^^^
 
Well, I already have a disc so I guess I'm all set then. :) I used to use it on the aggresive setting so I'll straighten it out and see how that works. I suppose it's just gonna have to be a balancing act between germination, too many weeds, and keeping the soil biology intact.
 
I can't see how aerating prior to throw & mow WOULDN'T help germination. We did landscape work for years (before going strictly tree work) & our clients lawns that were core aerated looked better than the ones that weren't (all else equal). But... if you have a disc, that's your best bet if you can access the ground.
 
Unlike a yard that is a typical mostly monoculture, an aerator would improve a food plot. But if one wants aeration, or groundbreaking w/o sweat of expense of fuel and equipment, then plant soil busting plants like brassica and deep rooting annuals such as grains. I aerate my yard, yes, my plots, nature does it for me. Now if my wife loved the sight of brassica growing in the front yard, along with chest high grains, and underlying clover, then I wouldn't have to aerate or mow. :)
 
Well, I do use radishes and turnips, but usually by the following planting season the plot usually still could use some soil exposure. I just want to do it with as little disturbance as possible.
 
IMO, a disc is not the great bugaboo that lots of folks make it out to be. There’s lots of discretion in how to use a disc as MM alluded to. One like mine, two gangs which adjust for angle, can be used to barely scratch the ground, or to turn it over as deep as the axles are within the limits of your horsepower. I routinely only disc as deep as is needed to cover the size of the seeds I’m planting.
 
I have been slow to join the throw and mow party , but decided to give it ( partly ) a try this year . I used a chain harrow instead of of a rototiller. I was broadcasting clover , wheat and rye . I always try to broadcast before a good rain and did overseed quite a bit this year . I had quite a bit of fescue in the field , so I did spray with glysophate a couple of weeks before I dragged it .The plot came in just as good as a tilled plot .
I guess that this is not true throw and mow but its better than tilling .
 
Last edited:
I have been slow to join the throw and mow party , but decided to give it ( partly ) a try this year . I used a chain harrow instead of of a rototiller. I was broadcasting clover , wheat and rye . I always try to broadcast before a good rain and did overseed quite a bit this year . I had quite a bit of fescue in the field , so I did spray with glysophate a couple of weeks before I dragged it .The plot came in just as good as a tilled plot .
I guess that this is not true throw and mow but its better than tilling .
Did your chain harrow not "rake" up a bunch of thatch into piles or bunches. Or did you not have much thatch?
 
My brother-in-law used one on his fourth-year T&M plot this year. Last year it didn't do well because it had very little vegetation to mow over the seed. He had poor germination that year and the birds really did a number on his seed. This year he worked it over pretty well with a barrel style lawn aerator before throwing seed, and then one pass after throwing seed. The results were excellent.
 
Back
Top