Keystone Krops

Excellent small grain test Mennoniteman! Findings are definitely obvious and conclusive that the oats beat our the other two. Was early deer browsing on either the barley or wheat a factor at all?

I appreciate your sharing of how you manage your habitat; your ideas combined with your experience are uniquely and directly goal related, helpful, and thought provoking. Your invasive eliminating mixture is one I'll surely be trying.
If I really want to be sure MFR and barberry dies I increase the mix to 4 oz per gallon.
 
Time for Lime. Spreading lime for a friend, about 6 tons to the acre on a newly cleared field in the woods with some clover and buckwheat just started.


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Man I wish I could get a truck like that on my plots. Hauling pell lime in 50 pound bags gets old.... I manage to get about 1,000 pounds down a year. At this rate, it'll take me a while to get my PH where I'd like it. I have another ~3K pounds to apply. And then, I assume I'll have to apply a maintenance level annually for some time while my soil improves.
 
Man I wish I could get a truck like that on my plots. Hauling pell lime in 50 pound bags gets old.... I manage to get about 1,000 pounds down a year. At this rate, it'll take me a while to get my PH where I'd like it. I have another ~3K pounds to apply. And then, I assume I'll have to apply a maintenance level annually for some time while my soil improves.
Yes I know, I have a few plots like that. Not only is bagged lime a lot of work, but it's also expensive. A truckload of lime is no work at all, and is only around $38 a ton.
 
Cool video. Hope to get my guy down next week as things has finally dried up some. I have one field of poor access with rain and I've been waiting and waiting . And you are right, 35$ ton spread for me is a no brainer. And I agree, 6 tons per ac!! Wow. Just glad you used a boom!!!:rolleyes:
 
Yes I know, I have a few plots like that. Not only is bagged lime a lot of work, but it's also expensive. A truckload of lime is no work at all, and is only around $38 a ton.
Do you know what kind of lime you put on, and how you picked your application rate?
 
Do you know what kind of lime you put on, and how you picked your application rate?
We do soil testing every several years. When clearing new fields from woods the soil is very acidic, it takes a big shot of lime just to get started.
Calcium Carbonate Equivalent (C.C.E.)............................................................ 90.4%
Effective Neutralizing Value (E.N.V.) ................................................................... 72%
Total Calcium (Ca) ............................................................................................ 30.5%
Total Magnesium (Mg)......................................................................................... 3.3%
Calcium Oxide (CaO)............................................................................................ 43%
Magnesium Oxide (MgO)..................................................................................... 5.5%
GUARANTEED Passing 20 mesh ........................................................................ 98%
Passing 60 mesh .................................................................................................. 70%
Passing 100 mesh ................................................................................................ 65%
Passing 200 mesh ................................................................................................ 50%
Maximum Moisture Content..................................................................................... 1%
 
I can completely relate to your low PH issues. Awesome time savor. Any concerns applying lime with new growth like that, I honestly have never been done that after green up? I'm guessing probably isn't too big of a concern since you are in the early stages of working the dirt on this piece and heck only feeding deer.
 
I can completely relate to your low PH issues. Awesome time savor. Any concerns applying lime with new growth like that, I honestly have never been done that after green up? I'm guessing probably isn't too big of a concern since you are in the early stages of working the dirt on this piece and heck only feeding deer.
Lime can be applied anytime, sooner is better than later, but I understand where you're coming from, it looks like we're awfully hard on our crop by running a truck over it. But the background on this field is that we only finished clearing it in mid-June which is too late here for planting most crops, so we quickly seeded it with buckwheat as a last ditch effort just to get something growing. So the green that we are driving over is that buckwheat soilbuilding crop that will either expire or reseed itself.
 
MM....Educate me on Thunder herbicide. I read your post but was wondering if you spray early in the spring if the residual would take care of summer grasses and weeds? Label says not to plant for at least 4 months correct?
 
MM....Educate me on Thunder herbicide. I read your post but was wondering if you spray early in the spring if the residual would take care of summer grasses and weeds? Label says not to plant for at least 4 months correct?
You can apply Thunder during any time of growing season, but only 1 application per year, pre-plant or post-emergence, but only for legumes like clover, alfalfa or birdsfoot trefoil. I prefer midsummer, and yes, the residual will continue to keep them clean for a while. Spraying every year keeps clover clean year round. I'd advise using this only on long term clover fields so that the several month residual doesn't matter. 3-6 oz per acre is application rate, I usually put 10 oz in 25 gallons of water and spray 1.5 to 2 acres with this, shooting for a 5oz. per acre average. Its critical to mix 64oz of ams in 25 gallons of water first, and 16 oz of crop oil before adding Thunder. I wouldn't mix with any other herbicides. It's rated for weeds 3-6" high, but I've had good results with bigger weeds later in the summer. Directions say for best results mow the clover first, then spray. I usually spray a week or two after mowing in early to midsummer, but have had good results late summer as well. This stuff kills most weeds, including my main late summer problem weeds; ragweed, marestail, thistles, foxtail etc. Thunder kills grass and broadleafs so no need for clethodim when using this. I just got a gallon at Daniel's farm store for $199, which is about $6.50 an acre, so not as expensive as it seems, and this stuff will make picture perfect clover if used properly. I have perfect clover with this stuff, so I never tried Imox for comparison, which is a similar chemical but not the same. Only if Thunder quits working or becomes unavailable will I switch to Imox.

Other observations; I've had mixed results with 2,4-DB (BUTYRAC® 200) on clover, I won't be buying it any more.

Last year I had several perfect clover plots, so I didn't bother spraying at all since there were only a few random blades of grass. But on hindsight I should have sprayed, every one of those blades of grass had a cattail head that went to seed and this year I've got a major grass problem in those particular fields and have to play catchup with the weeds. Lesson learned and note to self (again) Spray my clover plots with Thunder herbicide every year, even if they look clean.
 
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You can apply Thunder during any time of growing season, but only 1 application per year, pre-plant or post-emergence, but only for legumes like clover, alfalfa or birdsfoot trefoil. I prefer midsummer, and yes, the residual will continue to keep them clean for a while. Spraying every year keeps clover clean year round. I'd advise using this only on long term clover fields so that the several month residual doesn't matter. 3-6 oz per acre is application rate, I usually put 10 oz in 25 gallons of water and spray 1.5 to 2 acres with this, shooting for a 5oz. per acre average. Its critical to mix 64oz of ams in 25 gallons of water first, and 16 oz of crop oil before adding Thunder. I wouldn't mix with any other herbicides. It's rated for weeds 3-6" high, but I've had good results with bigger weeds later in the summer. Directions say for best results mow the clover first, then spray. I usually spray a week or two after mowing in early to midsummer, but have had good results late summer as well. This stuff kills most weeds, including my main late summer problem weeds; ragweed, marestail, thistles, foxtail etc. Thunder kills grass and broadleafs so no need for clethodim when using this. I just got a gallon at Daniel's farm store for $199, which is about $6.50 an acre, so not as expensive as it seems, and this stuff will make picture perfect clover if used properly. I have perfect clover with this stuff, so I never tried Imox for comparison, which is a similar chemical but not the same. Only if Thunder quits working or becomes unavailable will I switch to Imox.

Other observations; I've had mixed results with 2,4-DB on clover, I won't be buying it any more.

Last year I had several perfect clover plots, so I didn't bother spraying at all since there were only a few random blades of grass. But on hindsight I should have sprayed, every one of those blades of grass had a cattail head that went to seed and this year I've got a major grass problem in those particular fields and have to play catchup with the weeds. Lesson learned and note to self (again) Spray my clover plots with Thunder herbicide every year, even if they look clean.

Do you prefer the using Thunder for clover plots rather than a Clethodim and Butyrac cocktail?
 
Do you prefer the using Thunder for clover plots rather than a Clethodim and Butyrac cocktail?
Yes, Thunder kills more weeds, works faster, lasts a month longer and is also cheaper than a Clethodim and Butyrac cocktail.
Imazethapyr is Thunder or Pursuit, and Imazamox is Imox, Raptor or Clearcast, these two are in the same chemical family, and work about the same way. The reasons I lean towards Thunder is it's a little cheaper and actually kills a few more broadleaf weeds, 120 for Thunder vs. 113 for Imox, but Thunder kills a few less grasses. Raptor has a shorter soil life approximately half of Pursuit, both herbicides enter the soil and can last for months. Raptor is attractive for being able to plant brassica type plots sooner. But I don't know why someone would apply these expensive herbicides at all if they're planning to transition to another crop outside of clover, alfalfa, or chicory.
 
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I like to drill my fall plantings into standing clover so if a early spring will take care of summer grasses it would work for me but if I have to spray later than the first of May with Thunder to control summer grasses and weeds not so much. I do like the ideal of using Thunder one time to take care of most of my issue so I might give it a try.
 
Yes, Thunder kills more weeds, works faster, lasts a month longer and is also cheaper than a Clethodim and Butyrac cocktail.
Unfortunately I can’t get my hands on Thunder here in the commie state of New York so I’ll have to stick with your cocktail recipe of Clethodim and Butyrac. It has been working great for me so far.
 
Unfortunately I can’t get my hands on Thunder here in the commie state of New York so I’ll have to stick with your cocktail recipe of Clethodim and Butyrac. It has been working great for me so far.
On your next visit to Lancaster county Pa just walk into Daniel's farm store in leola and buy this contraband over the counter for $199 a gallon, no tax.
 
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