How to Topwork with Bark Grafting

Native Hunter

Well-Known Member
Someone on the forum recently asked me to post some instructions and pictures on how to bark graft persimmons. I topworked an apple tree the other day and took the following pictures. The method is the same when doing a persimmon, so the following works with them too. However, you need to wait until later on persimmons, because they leaf out later. When you see the leaves almost completely out on persimmons, you can do it then. If you do it too early, the bark will not be slipping properly, and you will likely be unsuccessful.

First, make a nice, slick cut.

Yh3ZGaT.jpg


Next, make slits and peel the bark back as shown. I usually do two grafts on one this size.

wRPyMiq.jpg


Trim the scions as shown below. Cut like a wedge and leave the bark on one side. Place the bark side to the outside and the cut side to the inside.

QLcVb0j.jpg


ekE4zvs.jpg


Wrap it tight. You can use grafting tape or electrical tape.

v92VfGj.jpg



Seal it using wax or pruning sealer.



9LiDW7M.jpg


After the grafts take, you need to add some kind of bracing for the first year. I use pieces of cane (bamboo) and duct tape. This keeps the wind from breaking your grafts off while they are welding together with the tree trunk. It's not unusual for a graft to grow 6 feet in the first year, so the wind can put a lot of pressure on it. So, how do I know you need to brace them? The following picture shows how I know. Best wishes.

toFSSiC.jpg
 
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Did you have to heat up the bowl wax to make it useable in the field? I have grafting wax, works great grafting rootstock indoors but it needs to be heated.


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Nice pics. One thing I've noticed with persimmons, if you cut the flap exactly the size of the scion and expose a little cambium on the sides of the scion, it increases the chances of the scion taking. Pressure from the electrical tape helps with the bark graft taking from the flap. The cambium connections on the sides of the scion creates a cambium alignment connection as well. While it is not necessary, it does increase my takes.

Just a couple more thoughts for folks new to this. In my area, zone 7a, early to mid May is about the right time to bark graft persimmons, but that varies with location. One good rule of thumb is to look for the leaves to be about the size of squirrel ears or so as an indicator of sap running. Another is to stress the importance of removing water sprouts that the tree puts out below the graft for that first summer. The tree wants to favor it's own water sprouts over the graft. Removing them forces the energy into the scion.
 
Took this pic today of a persimmon that I topworked in the spring of 2021. This was done using the steps as I described above. Roughly 16 feet of vertical growth in 2 years time. This was a small tree (about half the size of the one above), so I only used one scion. Persimmon is the Deer Magnet Cultivar.

NuaPX86.jpg
 
Native, I thought pruning sealer was no longer kosher according to the experts. Are you referring to something else? I like the idea of the toilet bowl wax...
 
Took this pic today of a persimmon that I topworked in the spring of 2021. This was done using the steps as I described above. Roughly 16 feet of vertical growth in 2 years time. This was a small tree (about half the size of the one above), so I only used one scion. Persimmon is the Deer Magnet Cultivar.

NuaPX86.jpg
That's incredible growth. I've had one top work actually be successful to this point, it would only be fair to say I've only tried 3 times though. The 2 years growth on it is about 3', of course, we've been in 2 year's worth of drought too. Do you prune the growth off the trunk each year? The male trunk continually sprouts new limbs.
 
Native, I thought pruning sealer was no longer kosher according to the experts. Are you referring to something else? I like the idea of the toilet bowl wax...

It's no longer recommended for sealing wounds, but I have no issues still using it for sealing around topworking cuts. Typically, the topworking cuts will be healed over by the scions closing in the space within a relatively short time. The reason for sealing when topworking is to keep water out long enough for it to heal over. The sealer is good for that and not an issue.
 
That's incredible growth. I've had one top work actually be successful to this point, it would only be fair to say I've only tried 3 times though. The 2 years growth on it is about 3', of course, we've been in 2 year's worth of drought too. Do you prune the growth off the trunk each year? The male trunk continually sprouts new limbs.

Keep the limbs from the male part cut off so that all of the energy will go to your scions. It doesn't matter how often you do that, but I would do it at least once a year. I do it whenever I am walking by and see that it needs to be done.
 
Since the subject of wounds came up, I will offer the following advice. Make a wound very slick without ragged edges. This allows the bark to close in and cover it. The bark should be even with the edge of the slick cut.

I had an apple with 2 trunks over 4 inches diameter each at the point where I cut one of them off. It took over 4 years, but the cut finally closed in with new bark. But I must admit that it gets risky when you get larger than that.
 
This is my first post since my Imgur quit working. I'm now using direct (drag and drop) picture posting without a photo posting service. I must say that I don't like it as well, but it is what it is.

I went ahead and added the cane bracing to this tree. It's still early, and this isn't needed until the scions start getting big. When they do start growing, I will add some tape around them and the braces to keep them from breaking off in a high wind. The bracing is now in place, and I will add the tape when necessary. The scions are doing fine but growing slowly due to our colder than normal weather since topworking.

After a year's growth and hardening off, the bracing can be removed. I've seen scions grow over 6 feet tall in the first year. I doubt that these will grow that much due to the slow start, but we will see.

IMG_2615.jpg
 
When do you remove the electrical tape?

thanks

bill

You can usually leave it on until the end of the first growing season. However, keep an eye on it and remove sooner if you get substantial growth and you feel it could be too tight. Electrical tape will stretch some, so generally that isn't a problem. The bracing definitely needs to be left on all season, and I generally just wait until the next spring to remove it.
 
Last edited:
Someone on the forum recently asked me to post some instructions and pictures on how to bark graft persimmons. I topworked an apple tree the other day and took the following pictures. The method is the same when doing a persimmon, so the following works with them too. However, you need to wait until later on persimmons, because they leaf out later. When you see the leaves almost completely out on persimmons, you can do it then. If you do it too early, the bark will not be slipping properly, and you will likely be unsuccessful.

First, make a nice, slick cut.

Yh3ZGaT.jpg


Next, make slits and peel the bark back as shown. I usually do two grafts on one this size.

wRPyMiq.jpg


Trim the scions as shown below. Cut like a wedge and leave the bark on one side. Place the bark side to the outside and the cut side to the inside.

QLcVb0j.jpg


ekE4zvs.jpg


Wrap it tight. You can use grafting tape or electrical tape.

v92VfGj.jpg



Seal it using wax or pruning sealer.



9LiDW7M.jpg


After the grafts take, you need to add some kind of bracing for the first year. I use pieces of cane (bamboo) and duct tape. This keeps the wind from breaking your grafts off while they are welding together with the tree trunk. It's not unusual for a graft to grow 6 feet in the first year, so the wind can put a lot of pressure on it. So, how do I know you need to brace them? The following picture shows how I know. Best wishes.

toFSSiC.jpg

Someone on the forum recently asked me to post some instructions and pictures on how to bark graft persimmons. I topworked an apple tree the other day and took the following pictures. The method is the same when doing a persimmon, so the following works with them too. However, you need to wait until later on persimmons, because they leaf out later. When you see the leaves almost completely out on persimmons, you can do it then. If you do it too early, the bark will not be slipping properly, and you will likely be unsuccessful.

First, make a nice, slick cut.

Yh3ZGaT.jpg


Next, make slits and peel the bark back as shown. I usually do two grafts on one this size.

wRPyMiq.jpg


Trim the scions as shown below. Cut like a wedge and leave the bark on one side. Place the bark side to the outside and the cut side to the inside.

QLcVb0j.jpg


ekE4zvs.jpg


Wrap it tight. You can use grafting tape or electrical tape.

v92VfGj.jpg



Seal it using wax or pruning sealer.



9LiDW7M.jpg


After the grafts take, you need to add some kind of bracing for the first year. I use pieces of cane (bamboo) and duct tape. This keeps the wind from breaking your grafts off while they are welding together with the tree trunk. It's not unusual for a graft to grow 6 feet in the first year, so the wind can put a lot of pressure on it. So, how do I know you need to brace them? The following picture shows how I know. Best wishes.

toFSSiC.jpg
 
I can't see any of the photos on the March 25, 2023 first post. My computer displays a red X where the photo would normally appear.

Can someone tell me what setting to change or how I can correct this issue. Thanks.
 
I can't see any of the photos on the March 25, 2023 first post. My computer displays a red X where the photo would normally appear.

Can someone tell me what setting to change or how I can correct this issue. Thanks.

Wayne, it is an Imgur problem. As of late all of my photos posted through Imgur have disappeared. This has ruined all of my threads. I am now posting by directly adding the pictures and bypassing Imgur. I will check this week and see if I still have those photos. If I can repair the thread by directly posting them I will do that.
 
Wayne, it is an Imgur problem. As of late all of my photos posted through Imgur have disappeared. This has ruined all of my threads. I am now posting by directly adding the pictures and bypassing Imgur. I will check this week and see if I still have those photos. If I can repair the thread by directly posting them I will do that.

Photo bucket did that to me several years ago. Really stings to see those posts turn into duds…


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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