How do you protect your browse shrubs and young conifers until they are mature

[Gary Zajicek]

My habitat projects for the year are numerous. Over the past three years I have been cutting a barrier on my south and west property lines. I have also created bedding areas, hopefully for bucks in the SW corner, of the more elevated corner of my 40 and a doe bedding area near the lower NE corner of the 40. Just to the east of the doe bedding area I cut in a 1/16 acre food plot. I do not have a lot of browse for the deer as the canopy is thick. I do have a few areas that will allow sun in along the barrier I cut in (fell trees and hinge cuts). I really would like to learn from the members what you use to keep deer from destroying newly planted bushes and conifers for the first two to three years of growth. Any direction will be appreciated.

 

[weekender21]

I think you'll find that the species that need to be protected and the level of protection will vary greatly from region to region depending on deer density and availability of food. I've caged all my apple trees, an apple seedling on my property wouldn't stand a chance. I haven't planted any conifers yet but I plan to in the near future. I'm following a thread on another forum and experience with conifers range from deer don't touch them to deer destroy 100% unless cages are used.

 

[weekender21]

This is what my apples and chestnut cages look like. Depending on your choice of shrub this may or may not be necessary.

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[Native Hunter]

The problem doesn't end after two or three years of growth:

 

[weekender21]

What did that poor tree do to deserve such treatment?!

 

[Native Hunter]

What did that poor tree do to deserve such treatment?!

There is a great lesson about protecting conifers to be learned from this tree. It survived for 15 years without any protection, because it had briers and weeds growing up around it. However, last year I widened the food plot a little and cleaned out around it leaving it sticking out like a sore thumb. You can see what happened because of that.

Seriously, nasty cover (especially briers) will usually keep trees like this from being rubbed. Obviously, apple trees need to be caged, because we take better care of them than we do other run-of-the-mill trees like white pines. When you plant conifers, just keep a hole open at the top so that they can get some sunlight and get their heads above the weeds - but don't clean out around them much or they will get hit.

There.....I've done my good deed for the day. I can sleep now.....

 

[Buckly]

Find the right conifer. Some in your area could be browsed way more than others so planting the right species will greatly improve survivors. My personal best tactic is to just over plant. If your goal is 100 trees in the end , plant 1000. Seems like a lot but, planting 1000 conifer plugs can be done in a few days.

 

[weekender21]

Find the right conifer. Some in your area could be browsed way more than others so planting the right species will greatly improve survivors. My personal best tactic is to just over plant. If your goal is 100 trees in the end , plant 1000. Seems like a lot but, planting 1000 conifer plugs can be done in a few days.

Any better luck with one species over another? In my corner of the Appalachians in western NC the typical native species are white pine and red spruce. I plan to plant fraser fir in areas that I want smaller trees.

 

[OkieKubota]

My experience is if you are in an area that doesn’t have natural conifers the deer will eat them when small and once the ones that are left grow a bit they will rub them unmercifully. If you are planting in an area that has native conifers they will nibble some and rub a few...

 

[MarkDarvin]

My habitat projects for the year are numerous. Over the past three years I have been cutting a barrier on my south and west property lines. I have also created bedding areas, hopefully for bucks in the SW corner, of the more elevated corner of my 40 and a doe bedding area near the lower NE corner of the 40. Just to the east of the doe bedding area I cut in a 1/16 acre food plot. I do not have a lot of browse for the deer as the canopy is thick. I do have a few areas that will allow sun in along the barrier I cut in (fell trees and hinge cuts). I really would like to learn from the members what you use to keep deer from destroying newly planted bushes and conifers for the first two to three years of growth. Any direction will be appreciated.

Before you open the wallet, what do you have growing naturally on your property now? List out as many species as you can. What I'm getting at here, is you may not need to buy browse and cover. You may just need to make it happen with some saw fuel and sunlight. It's hard to reprogram or reforest a forest with money.

 

[Chainsaw]

Good point Mark. Additionally without plenty of sun planting sun loving plants will not produce the desired result.
Welcome to the posting side of the forum Gary. Posting a google earth picture of your property and the surrounding properties might produce some helpful comments from this group. It sounds as if you have just or are now working on the overall design of your property.
And the most important design step is what Mark said. List every specie on your property and further even map out your property showing where each specie lives.

 

[Gary Zajicek]

This is what my apples and chestnut cages look like. Depending on your choice of shrub this may or may not be necessary.
This looks easy to do. I have heard others using rebar such as yourself. thanks for the photo

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There is a great lesson about protecting conifers to be learned from this tree. It survived for 15 years without any protection, because it had briers and weeds growing up around it. However, last year I widened the food plot a little and cleaned out around it leaving it sticking out like a sore thumb. You can see what happened because of that.

Seriously, nasty cover (especially briers) will usually keep trees like this from being rubbed. Obviously, apple trees need to be caged, because we take better care of them than we do other run-of-the-mill trees like white pines. When you plant conifers, just keep a hole open at the top so that they can get some sunlight and get their heads above the weeds - but don't clean out around them much or they will get hit.

There.....I've done my good deed for the day. I can sleep now.....

 

[Gary Zajicek]

The cage looks easy to do. May be a bit expensive when doing 50 - trees or shrubs. i like the use of the rebar. I have heard others using them to cut expenses

 

[Gary Zajicek]

Any bette luck with one species over another? In my corner of the Appalachians in western NC the typical native species are white pine and red spruce. I plan to plant fraser fir in areas that I want smaller trees.

 

[Gary Zajicek]

i was thinking about Hawthorn. They grow in the area. I would use them as edge screening

 

[weekender21]

The cage looks easy to do. May be a bit expensive when doing 50 - trees or shrubs. i like the use of the rebar. I have heard others using them to cut expenses

I caged 50 apples and pears during two springs. It's not too expensive when you're thinking about the long term investment. I have cages with two T-posts and some with one T-post and one rebar fence post. For apples, I think it's important to have at least one heavy duty T-post, you might be able to get away with just rebar posts on a less desirable tree or shrub.

 

[j-bird]

Cage it or the deer will destroy it. It's just that simple. I have had deer remove cages and reduce a 6 foot tree to a 12inch tattered stick. Some get lucky and get some briars or a fallen tree top to serve as protection, but other wise....your planting deer food. The ONLY other means I have seen is simply plant far more than the deer can ever eat. I have seen this done twice and it takes thousands of trees....mostly planted with an actual tree planter pulled behind a tractor into retired agriculture fields. And if it's not the deer it's the rabbits or mice or lord knows what all else. Also anything that stick out like a sore thumb ....if it's not eaten, the bucks will rub. Sometimes....it's like they are working against us!

 

[weekender21]

Digging through my property folder I found pictures of younger wild volunteer pine. Maybe I’ll be lucky.

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[Flo1919]

I like spruce, white mostly. Deer don’t browse them here, pines get hammered. I tend to plant a bunch in one area with a dibble. Let the briars grow around them or rotate a cage onto them at 3-4 years old.