Finally found one...

Bullwinkle

Active Member
A fix blade head that hits at the same spot as a field point - no adjusting sights

Muzzy trocar switch - only shot it at 1" cutting diameter. Plan to trial the others as well

This makes it so much easier to use fixed heads
 
A fix blade head that hits at the same spot as a field point - no adjusting sights

Muzzy trocar switch - only shot it at 1" cutting diameter. Plan to trial the others as well

This makes it so much easier to use fixed heads
This is a wonderful find Bull. At what maximum range is this happening?
 
Only tried to 30 - took 2 shots, within 1/2" of each other and cut off one blazer - dumb mistake.

I need to shoot to 60 for moose but the kill area is the size of a 5 gallon bucket- pretty confident this will work
 
Alick trick, yes. I don't know the exact name. Didn't hit exactly the same. It was a 4 blade I think

These switch blades are tapered.
 
Sure a non tuned bow can cause it. So can speed. Ever since I moved to 70lb draw I've had this problem. The bow shop had given up and said just to move my pins. Both my creed, outback and z7 extreme have this issue
 
If you practice with the same broadhead you hunt with you eliminate the "shooting like a field point" issue entirely no matter what broadhead you choose. Just buy 2 sets, one for practice, one for hunting.
You will go through targets quicker and the guys at the bow shop won't let you shoot at their range but I'm OK with that.
 
That works and actually was the recommendation of the bow shop when he couldn't get broadheads to hit exactly like field points

The problem is I like shooting 3D and try to shoot 60-75 arrow/week.
 
That works and actually was the recommendation of the bow shop when he couldn't get broadheads to hit exactly like field points

The problem is I like shooting 3D and try to shoot 60-75 arrow/week.
Yeah, I don't think that would go over real well at a 3D shoot!
 
My Bowtech is shooting my hunting arrows at 321 FPS and I had to move away from the old tried and true NAP Thunderheads when I got it. I shot a couple different Mechanicals but have now found the Slick Trick and all is good. Exact same POI as field tips...
 
I like "Walk Back Tuning". If a broadhead doesn't shoot the same as your field point after this, there is either form issues or a terrible design on the BH. You will find a few that are good designs, but they are 1" or less outside of the field point and I consider that acceptable. You would just need to adjust your sights to the head before hunting. There are a number of heads that were designed before todays faster bows and the BH doesn't take to kindly to the speed. Most companies have realized that and either redesigned the head or made a new one to replace it for the faster bows. Muzzy is a prime example with their 3 and 4 blade heads and redesigning them to the MX3 and MX4.
 
I'm a slick trick fan as well. I've tuned a bunch of bows over the years and most would shoot to same POI out to 60 yds with a combination of walk back and bareshaft tuning. Some however would not. As an interesting aside, I've had a tougher time post shoulder surgery (rotator cuff/biceps reattachment) than before. It seems to have impacted my form in away I still don't understand even 4 years later. Those I couldn't get spot on were fine to 30 yds but not farther so I carry a mix of slicks and mechanicals when that happens. Not an issue very often for white tails, but a big issue for mule deer and elk where shots have averaged 45 yds or so. I'm not a fan of practicing with BH--limits where and how much I shoot. It's also tough on vanes/arrows.
 
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