deer crab apple or deer pear

[buckhunter10]

I see some of these are sold via native nurseries, flat wood nativs, etc. I am thinking about adding some fruit trees around the edges of my plots.

I am looking for trees I can tube and just leave grow for awhile. I worry with apples I will have a lot of cross branching if I leave them in tubes.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

 

[Neahawg]

You need to remove the tubes in Feb and prune every year just like if you didn't have a tube. I like the wildlife group for apples, pears, or Crabapples.

 

[buckhunter10]

You need to remove the tubes in Feb and prune every year just like if you didn't have a tube. I like the wildlife group for apples, pears, or Crabapples.

Interesting. Even with pruning are you just cutting back to a single leader until the tree is out of the tube?

 

[Neahawg]

Yes but my tubes are 5 feet and i don't want lateral beaching til then. Harder to mow under. Deer eat the tips of branches etc.

 

[Nebraskaz71]

I would love some crabapples, i personally went the pear route though due to so many japanese beetles here. So far they have no interest in the pear leaves but apples they attack big time.

 

[buckhunter10]

I would love some crabapples, i personally went the pear route though due to so many japanese beetles here. So far they have no interest in the pear leaves but apples they attack big time.

I have had goodluck with some 7. Seems to keep the Beatles off

 

[buckhunter10]

Yes but my tubes are 5 feet and i don't want lateral beaching til then. Harder to mow under. Deer eat the tips of branches etc.

This makes a lot of sense. I might just have to give this a shot.

 

[Neahawg]

I would love some crabapples, i personally went the pear route though due to so many japanese beetles here. So far they have no interest in the pear leaves but apples they attack big time.

Jap Beatles are yard on apples and chestnuts but seven will keep them at bay until the tree is big enough to handle a little pressure.

 

[Nebraskaz71]

Havnt had a lot of luck with seven, i'm surrounded by corn/beans and the infestation is so bad i spray my trees every day and they still get stripped. Gonna try permerthrin or however u spell it this summer.

 

[j-bird]

I see some of these are sold via native nurseries, flat wood nativs, etc. I am thinking about adding some fruit trees around the edges of my plots.

I am looking for trees I can tube and just leave grow for awhile. I worry with apples I will have a lot of cross branching if I leave them in tubes.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Keep in mind either way those trees will need their own sunlight - so if the edge of your plot is wooded you may have some issues. Also consider that they will eventually create shade and may reduce the productiveness of that area of your plot. I have fruit trees in my perennial plots, but my plots have large grass and weed buffers around them as well for light and air circulation. As far as crab or pear. I have heard anyone can grow a pear. I would look more at estimated drop times and how/when you hunt. Last thing you want is fruit hitting the ground and being done before you can hunt it. If I recall pears typically drop before apples/crabs so if your not an early season hunter that may be a bad thing. I don't have any pears and only 1 crab apple - mine is an ornamental variety that I wanted to do some grafting and the like with. For crab apples I would also look at the average fruit size as well. I personally would want the bigger fruit if possible. Sorry I don't have details.

 

[Chummer]

Keep in mind either way those trees will need their own sunlight - so if the edge of your plot is wooded you may have some issues. Also consider that they will eventually create shade and may reduce the productiveness of that area of your plot. I have fruit trees in my perennial plots, but my plots have large grass and weed buffers around them as well for light and air circulation. As far as crab or pear. I have heard anyone can grow a pear. I would look more at estimated drop times and how/when you hunt. Last thing you want is fruit hitting the ground and being done before you can hunt it. If I recall pears typically drop before apples/crabs so if your not an early season hunter that may be a bad thing. I don't have any pears and only 1 crab apple - mine is an ornamental variety that I wanted to do some grafting and the like with. For crab apples I would also look at the average fruit size as well. I personally would want the bigger fruit if possible. Sorry I don't have details.

...I can not grow a pear.

 

[j-bird]

...I can not grow a pear.

I said "I have heard ....." I have not grown one myself, but I have never tried either.

 

[Chummer]

I said "I have heard ....." I have not grown one myself, but I have never tried either.

Not for a lack of trying. I even ordered ones that were suppose to survive my winters. I still have several "pear shrubs" alive but they suffer winter die back every year.

 

[buckhunter10]

Not for a lack of trying. I even ordered ones that were suppose to survive my winters. I still have several "pear shrubs" alive but they suffer winter die back every year.

interesting. I have a few in SE Ohio that are doing well. I have grown some decent apples as well.

I just ordered 10 crab apples and deer pears. I hope they are dominant as I might not be able to plant them for a couple weeks! UGHH!

 

[Native Hunter]

All pears don't drop early. Approach them like apples and persimmons - choose a cultivar that drops when you want it to drop. Some pears drop into December, and yes, pears are easy to grow - if you get DR pears - and if they will grow in your zone. Pears and persimmons are the backbone of my fruit planting for wildlife.

I don't know about the pears from the places you mentioned, because I've never checked into them. They may be great or they may not. I do know from personal experience that there are some outstanding named varieties of pears that you can't go wrong with if they meet the criteria I mention above.

Good luck.