How far is to far gone when it comes to an apple tree?

[CTM1]

As I reclaim an old field I have found some apple trees and as I venture further into the hawthorne surrounding the field I have found several more. On a few I cut down the surrounding saplings or hawthorne that were crowding them or shading them out. In one case I simply pushed over the competing trees with the tractor.

A couple had few apples with a lot of dead branches that I cut away with the chainsaw and one tree only has one main limb that is still alive with a few apples. Given they have apples can they be saved, and if so what is the best way to go about it?

Thanks

 

[Native Hunter]

That's a hard question to answer in a generic sense, but you are already doing some of the most important things.

Along with what you have already done, I would consider some fertilizing (and lime if necessary), but don't overdo it.

I'm not big on spraying apple trees in deer plantings, but doing some spraying for a few years to assist the old trees with fighting off diseases and pests could be advisable. This would help them as they were rejuvenating and getting back to good health.

If any of them have special attributes you could consider trying to graft them so that you could keep the variety going even if you lose the old tree.

Also, look for root sprouts on any special trees that you want to save. Cage the best sprouts to keep them from being eaten. Even if the sprout doesn't do well it could provide you with scion wood for many years. (Note: this is assuming the old trees are not grafted and are going on their own roots. That is what I would expect in an old orchard like this - especially if they happen to be wild apples rather than apples that someone planted.)

Good luck......

 

[CTM1]

Hey NH a follow up please, do you recommend fertilizing now or wait until spring, and if now what type of fert?
Would a triple 15 be appropriate?

Thanks again.

 

[Native Hunter]

Hey NH a follow up please, do you recommend fertilizing now or wait until spring, and if now what type of fert?
Would a triple 15 be appropriate?

Thanks again.

I don't think either way is critical, but I would probably wait until early spring. Short of doing a soil test, you are just guessing, but I think that would be fine. You are just wanting to rejuvenate them and provide some nutrients in the soil.

 

[wklman]

I would wait until spring to fertilize apple trees. If you fertilize in late summer or fall the trees may go into a late flush of growth and not be able to harden off in time before winter and get damaged during the winter.

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[Michael R. Sweeney]

I had the same thing and I opted to try and save them. For me ,I felt a connection with the past as mine were at least 40 years old and I made efforts to graft some, not really knowing their genus. Heirlooms hold a certain beauty for me. I only had fruit once in the last 20 years as the local critters clean them off every year . But I am undeterred. What have you got to lose?

 

[Chainsaw]

I have seen many apple trees saved that were having zero apples even. If it has green leaves, it is making food for itself. Opening up the canopy to let the sun in is usually all that is required. If it is dying because of a disease that is another story. For us it is usually simply succession of the forest snuffing them out. Reset the succession and step back. If you had some in a spot that was very important to you, then as Native suggested spraying for diseases and fertilizer could help it along also once it has sun.

 

[Mennoniteman]

That's a hard question to answer in a generic sense, but you are already doing some of the most important things.

Along with what you have already done, I would consider some fertilizing (and lime if necessary), but don't overdo it.

I'm not big on spraying apple trees in deer plantings, but doing some spraying for a few years to assist the old trees with fighting off diseases and pests could be advisable. This would help them as they were rejuvenating and getting back to good health.

If any of them have special attributes you could consider trying to graft them so that you could keep the variety going even if you lose the old tree.

Also, look for root sprouts on any special trees that you want to save. Cage the best sprouts to keep them from being eaten. Even if the sprout doesn't do well it could provide you with scion wood for many years. (Note: this is assuming the old trees are not grafted and are going on their own roots. That is what I would expect in an old orchard like this - especially if they happen to be wild apples rather than apples that someone planted.)

Good luck......

I've got four of these overgrown old apple trees, been neglected for a long time. What would you suggest as far as trimming them? I used to trim apple trees for my dad and know a little about trimming trees, but not sure about old trees like these.

 

[Native Hunter]

I've got four of these overgrown old apple trees, been neglected for a long time. What would you suggest as far as trimming them? I used to trim apple trees for my dad and know a little about trimming trees, but not sure about old trees like these.

Each situation is different, but I would definitely cut out any dead or diseased wood. I would also try to do some shaping by cutting out branches that rub together - keeping the overall form of the tree in mind. Doing this will also thin the canopy some, which will allow sunlight to reach shaded parts of the tree. On old trees like this it isn't always practical to shape to a central leader, so don't worry so much about that unless it is convenient to do so. Even if you end up with an open center (which is common in many countries) that is no big problem. Sunlight and air flow are more important than tree shape.

Finally, I wouldn't make any excessively large cuts that were not necessary.

 

[KDdid]

Just for fun, here's an old apple clinging to life in my m-I-l's pasture. It broke over in a windstorm 20 years ago.

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[Doe Shooter]

I've got four of these overgrown old apple trees, been neglected for a long time. What would you suggest as far as trimming them? I used to trim apple trees for my dad and know a little about trimming trees, but not sure about old trees like these.

I don't believe you can go too far wrong ,no matter what you do.The commercial orchard by me prunes their trees with a boom brush hog. They look horrible. But produce every year.I like to prune to an open vase. Eliminate narrow crotches. Take out about 30% sap wood. Start slow ,take something out, sit down and study it for a while. It's kinda like what the old man said: "The difference between a good hair cut and a bad one is 2 weeks"

 

[Chainsaw]

I'd cut out the dead stuff, put a cardboard wrap around the trunk, be sure to cover any suckers and spray the competing vegetation with roundup to kill it. As it is it doesn't seem to be doing so bad.

 

[Mennoniteman]

I'd cut out the dead stuff, put a cardboard wrap around the trunk, be sure to cover any suckers and spray the competing vegetation with roundup to kill it. As it is it doesn't seem to be doing so bad.

Explain how and why the cardboard wrap?

 

[Chainsaw]

Explain how and why the cardboard wrap?

The cardboard wrap is simply placed loosely around the trunk area to cover any tiny suckers at the bottom of the tree as well as any tiny leaves at the bottom of the tree that could get some spray into the roots of the tree.

I also cut the bottom out of a five gallon pail and use it to contain the spray by spraying inside it or use it to protect smaller plants by placing the bucket over the plant and then spraying on the outside of it. There is a short rope tied to the bucket handle so I don't need to bend down to pick up the bucket--not being lazy;it is faster that way and it avoids leaking chemicals out onto me and the ground from the tilting of the backpack sprayer when bending over to pick up a bucket handle.