Tree Protection Question - Mats and Tubes and Cages (oh my...)

LodgeWI

LodgeWI

Member
How do you all protect your trees in the following situations?

1. Open fields/field edges (not on forest line)/orchard?
2. Open areas within wooded/forest?
3. Forest edges?

For #1, I use 3x3 weed mats, 5 foot tubex tubes (from tree protection supply) and wire cages with 3-4' diameters.

The real reason I ask this question is because next spring I plan to plant some crabs and other apple/fruit trees on the edges of forest clearings (#2 above) and on forest edges (#3) above. In these situations, is a well-staked 5' tubex tube and 3x3 weed mat going to protect the trees enough from nibbling deer, or do I need to cage them as well. I'm not really excited about caging things outside of open areas.

P.S. can you tell I'm a novice?
 
Every property is unique, based on deer population. A tube will deter deer from browsing, but deer will destroy a tube if they're so inclined. For Fruit trees, and special trees a cage is a must! Rigid mesh tubes on bamboo stakes are the lowest level of protection, and deters browse.

Protection needs change with the season.
During Spring and Summer trees need protection from deer browsing.
In the Fall trees need protection from bucks rubbing.
Winter protection is critical, or rodents will girdle the tree, so even a caged tree need to have it's stem protected.
 
5ft tube will completely protect a fruit tree here for me in Oklahoma. I don't tube and cage--it either one of the other.

todd
 
I use tubes sometimes, and I use cages sometimes. I always use window screen. I always keep grass away from the base either with spray or landscape fabric.
 
dogdoc is someone I followed on QDMA's forum when it came to tree tubes, etc. Always provided great advice.
I have used both methods; tubes or cages. And few times both; tubes with a cage, and only because I ran out of "farm time". The crabs I tubed had outgrown the tube height and the deer were browsing the tops. I have tubed every single crab apple tree I have planted, and they have worked fantastic. I never used web mats but would spray around the base of the tubes every spring. With apple/pear trees I have always caged with aluminum screen protecting from rodents.
I have pulled the tubes off a majority of my crab apples and caged after the tree grows to the top of the tube. Here's example of my combo; it's a waste but only so many hours in the day.
 
example of a tubed crab that I have pulled the tube (2 years in the tube from a 12" seedling), pulled tube and caged. Spindly but they fill nicely after the first year out of the tube.
 
I agree. My first order was 4ft tubes. Most of my trees did great but a few trees were browsed and had to be caged. My next order was for 5ft tubes.
 
1yellowdog said:
example of a tubed crab that I have pulled the tube (2 years in the tube from a 12" seedling), pulled tube and caged. Spindly but they fill nicely after the first year out of the tube.
Click to expand...
Warning - I said I'm a novice! What kind of fencing is this? Is it 6 foot? Does it come in a roll or single sheets?
 
LodgeWI said:
Warning - I said I'm a novice! What kind of fencing is this? Is it 6 foot? Does it come in a roll or single sheets?
Click to expand...

I use the welded wire. It comes in rolls up to 100 ft. I use the 4ft and raise it one foot off the ground. This allows me to reach under and pull any weeds. I also use aluminum window screen at the base to prevent girdling from rodents.
 
I love miracle tubes 5 footers and use conduit for tree stakes,they allow flexing.I don't personally use weed mats but spray gly for competition.
 
LodgeWI - I buy rolls of the fencing at Menards in 100' lengths. I know some folks only use one post for their fencing, but I always use 2 posts to secure two sides. The aluminum screening is 100% necessary. I planted 16 apples trees 10 years ago for my first batch of fruit trees. I caged them but didn't use the screen. First year they did great through the winter, 2nd year the mice/voles girdled 12 of the trees. Killed off the 12. It was expensive mistake that a $7.00 roll of screen could have prevented.
I have a 5 gallon bucket that has my caging "equipment"; wire side cutter for the fencing, hand stapler, hand pruner, aluminum screen, zip ties and a scissors. I used to carry a roll of wire rather than zip ties. Zip ties are so much faster, and cheap to cut and replace when you need to prune.
 
1yellowdog said:
LodgeWI - I buy rolls of the fencing at Menards in 100' lengths. I know some folks only use one post for their fencing, but I always use 2 posts to secure two sides. The aluminum screening is 100% necessary. I planted 16 apples trees 10 years ago for my first batch of fruit trees. I caged them but didn't use the screen. First year they did great through the winter, 2nd year the mice/voles girdled 12 of the trees. Killed off the 12. It was expensive mistake that a $7.00 roll of screen could have prevented.
I have a 5 gallon bucket that has my caging "equipment"; wire side cutter for the fencing, hand stapler, hand pruner, aluminum screen, zip ties and a scissors. I used to carry a roll of wire rather than zip ties. Zip ties are so much faster, and cheap to cut and replace when you need to prune.
Click to expand...

A good post. Reading it is one thing BUT seeing it all laid out - drives it home. I hate to see a good trunk girdle by critters.

Thanks for sharing.
 
dogdoc said:
I agree. My first order was 4ft tubes. Most of my trees did great but a few trees were browsed and had to be caged. My next order was for 5ft tubes.
Click to expand...

Last year I cut ~ 1foot from my 5ft tubes in 25 wild plum plantings in an effort to facilitate " bushy" growth

This failed experiment was like ringing a dinner bell as my baby plum new growth was devoured

5 ft seems to be the optimum ht to diminish deer browse in east texas

bill
 
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