Nut Sedge (AKA Nut grass)

[Letmgrow]

Suddenly I have an invasion. Two plots are affected. One plot is freshly seeded clover and Chicory while the other plot is RR corn and RR soybean.
I have been told the invasive grass is resistant to Glyphosate. I believe that's true as I had a small showing of this grass before I planted the plots and had sprayed with Gly. just a couple days before planting. The Gly. had no effect at all. The grass is still growing and overtaking the plants.
Any suggestions how I can get rid of this grass short of burning the plots off with something which will also burn off the new plants and waiting into fall to replant with something else? I have also been told Clethodim is not effective in killing the grass.
Lynn

 

[cutman]

Yellow nutsedge is my nemesis. In corn you should spray Permit at 2/3 to 1 1/3 oz per acre. Do it ASAP. You can also use Permit on soybeans IF they are STS beans. If they aren’t STS I think you can spray basagran but I’m not positive. I don’t think there’s anything you can spray on the clover.

Also, glyphosate is effective in some circumstances. You have to spray at at least 2 qts per acre but if it’s generic gly and not Powermax you might have to spray 3 qts per acre.

 

[Letmgrow]

Luckily these plots are only 1/4 acre each. Smallest I have. Of course even if I spray with Gly. my clover and Chicory mix is toast.
The corn and bean might have a chance.
My other thought is to just let it grow and mow when the clover starts to mature. I'm not sure how much mowing will set it back. I don't know if clover and chicory would shade the grass out and I'm sure the Sedge will suck a lot of nutrients from the soil.
A farmer friend recommended I power wash my discs and tiller so I don't contaminate new areas. Off to the supermarket to buy Pine Sol. LOL. At least my equipment will smell fresh.

 

[cutman]

It spreads through little tubers. Honestly I would nuke it ASAP - it’s awful stuff. Sacrifice your current plots to save future ones. I would probably disk them every 2 weeks rather than spray them at this point because the herbicides that kill it have long plant back times. You might not be able to plant any fall plots if you spray now.

 

[Triple C]

Gave up on 2 plots due to nut sedge. Anywhere I've go low lying areas I have sedge grass. Plus, hogs root the heck of out the stuff.

 

[Drycreek]

Yeah, hogs love it. On the place I use to have, I had a small amount of it in a clover plot and I nuked it with gly at about double the normal rate. I spot sprayed it because it was such a small area. The plot was about three years old so I disced it up that winter and replanted it the following fall. I know that’s not optimal but it worked.

 

[Mennoniteman]

Thunder kills nutsedge in clover and soybeans, its not labeled for chicory but I've used it in chicory with good success. Thunder will kill corn. You can buy it from Daniel's farm store and ship ups. $170 a gallon, 4-6 oz per acre. Slow acting, but longterm elimination. Works better after mowing or on small weeds.

 

[Letmgrow]

Thunder kills nutsedge in clover and soybeans, its not labeled for chicory but I've used it in chicory with good success. Thunder will kill corn. You can buy it from Daniel's farm store and ship ups. $170 a gallon, 4-6 oz per acre. Slow acting, but longterm elimination. Works better after mowing or on small weeds.

While I will probably have to go this route I am trying to find a source among the local farmers who may have battled Nut Sedge on their farms. Realistically I have about 1/2 acre to deal with which will require 8-12 oz. of Thunder. To buy a gallon @ $170 seems a bit steep when I'm just planting a plot to feed deer. I'm trying to justify the cost. If I have to do it I will. I really want to rid my property of this weed.
Lynn

 

[Letmgrow]

I have found this: https://www.keystonepestsolutions.com/thunder-herbicide-1-gallon-replaces-pursuit-herbicide-309
I do know one farmer who uses Pursuit.
Lynn

And, I thought $170 was a little pricey!

 

[Mennoniteman]

While I will probably have to go this route I am trying to find a source among the local farmers who may have battled Nut Sedge on their farms. Realistically I have about 1/2 acre to deal with which will require 8-12 oz. of Thunder. To buy a gallon @ $170 seems a bit steep when I'm just planting a plot to feed deer. I'm trying to justify the cost. If I have to do it I will. I really want to rid my property of this weed.
Lynn

I just bought a gallon at Daniels for $165, then you'd have shipping yet. Your half acre would only need 2-3 ozs, however, if you grow clover a gallon is a good investment for longterm use. If you hit your clover plot in the spring right after the clover gets going you will have a clean clover plot all summer. Thunder also works good for all soybeans. But it has a longterm carryover against certain crops, 4 to 18 months. Therefore I mostly use it only on my dedicated clover plots.

 

[Letmgrow]

Want to sell 3 ounces? LOL
Lynn

 

[dogghr]

Plant water soaking crops such as WR and summer buckwheat. Improve OM and soil life community to improve water percolation. Add gypsum, keep ph 6+, rotate crops to improve thatch layer. Allow spring growth to grow thick to smother it until another smothering crop can be planted, etc. Continuing with soy and corn crops without including soil coverings will require incessant use of chemical.

 

[Hoosierhunting]

Curious, do the hogs eradicate it by eliminating tubers?


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[shawn cox]

Curious, do the hogs eradicate it by eliminating tubers?


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no they seem to help it spread. they root it up to eat it but they never eradicate it.

 

[gut_pile]

Nut sedge and eradicate don't belong in the same sentence.

Unless the sentence is "you cannot eradicate nut sedge"

 

[KSQ2]

Plant water soaking crops such as WR and summer buckwheat. Improve OM and soil life community to improve water percolation. Add gypsum, keep ph 6+, rotate crops to improve thatch layer. Allow spring growth to grow thick to smother it until another smothering crop can be planted, etc. Continuing with soy and corn crops without including soil coverings will require incessant use of chemical.

We have it behind our house, I’m hoping to control it with the measures you mention here. One question that has puzzled me for a while on this site; why add gypsum? I thought that was used to LOWER ph, am I wrong?

 

[Mennoniteman]

We have it behind our house, I’m hoping to control it with the measures you mention here. One question that has puzzled me for a while on this site; why add gypsum? I thought that was used to LOWER ph, am I wrong?

Gypsum is a source of calcium that is neutral in ph. However, too much gypsum can unbalance soils and tie up other nutrients. Gypsum is usually used to loosen compacted soils and boost poor soil, generally marginal soils that have been out of production, without raising ph. It is a great tool to take soil nutrients to a certain level as per soil tests, but it is not a cure all. Gypsum isn't used a lot in commercial farming.

 

[dogghr]

We have it behind our house, I’m hoping to control it with the measures you mention here. One question that has puzzled me for a while on this site; why add gypsum? I thought that was used to LOWER ph, am I wrong?

Others are better experts but here’s my info.
Gypsum aka calcium sulfate is different than lime aka calcium carbonate. Gypsum contributes calcium and sulfur needed for optimum plant growth. It’s chemical makeup different than lime makes Ca and sulfur more easily uptake by plants.
It helps soil absorb water better and reduces phosphorus loss within the soils.
While it can slightly alter ph it promotes root uptake especially in acid soils. Improvement is caused by its counteracting soluble aluminum toxicity on roots.
It’s is also more soluble than lime this can move to deeper soil layers more easily. This all also improves soil aeration all of which is improving the bio community within the soil.
Many don’t know but the gypsum that comes from coal fired plants from the scrubbers for air pollution is an excellent choice.
Just some non technical info from a coal mining mountain man that is somehow destroying the universe supposedly.
Others on here can give better info on gypsum.


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[Letmgrow]

My latest update.
I have a farmer friend who lives 1 1/2 miles away. I had heard he had battled Nut Sedge so I stopped by last evening and talked with him. He said he had success with "Yukon". https://www.keystonepestsolutions.com/yukon-herbicide-5-pounds-547
This was two years ago but he still has some "Yukon" left. He offered to give me whatever I needed. I'm going back today and take him up on his offer.
I offered to pay him but he refused. He says he still owes me for coordinating the effort to upright his SAME Buffalo tractor after he rolled it onto it's side a few years back when the brakes failed on a steep grade. With the help of a couple other neighbors, a winch equipped D-5 Cat dozer and a 95 HP Case IH tractor a lot of chain and cable we got the SAME back on it's wheels with no further damage.
I went down and helped him get the tractor running a week later.
My plan is to let the plots grow until early fall then Nuke them totally.
Lynn

 

[cutman]

Yukon is good. It’s basically the same as the Permit I recommended above, so make sure you read the label carefully. It is safe on corn but not all soybeans, and it has significant plant back restrictions for certain crops. If you plan on planting fall food plots in these same areas, you will probably have to change your plans...