need help sniffing fairy's dust

S

stonegraham

New Member
Ok, I cant stand the guy. His voice cut my soul every seconds that I watch his video. But under all that arrogant condesensing smug exterior, he make a strong argument backed by facts/experience/example. So I'm going to give it a try with some spare arrows, not buying any more arrows due to wife knowing how many arrows I already have.

Mathew Creed at 63lbs and 27DL

Carbon Express Mayhem Hunter DS 350 Spine currently at 32in 9.8GPI no insert

G5 Montec 100gr

So what would be the best way to make an 'adult' arrow?
What inserts systems should I get, how long should I cut arrow?
Can I stay with 100gr boardheads or is it better to go 125, 150, 200?

Would I be able to feel any difference practicing with heavier arrows? I am expecting slower speed and more trajectory due to lost of speed. But what else can I expect? Or is the only noticable different would be in actual hunting scenario?

Example of your arrow built is welcome.
 
I got no idea what or Who you are talking about.

Having said that, a Heavier Arrow Set Up will have more Kinetic Energy than a Lighter Faster Arrow set up will have. More Kinetic Energy means more "Punch Through Power" and make a Pass Through more likely.

Don't take much to make a difference.
 
I used to have a chart with info and a 350gr arrow and a 500gr arrow had almost identical KE. The difference was 4lb IIRC. The big difference is the fact that the heavy arrow has enough ass to carry it through, where the light arrow slows down faster. Most of the younger people I worked on their bows, they wanted bragging speeds and the older crowd wanted good weight and accuracy. If I had to give an average for a hunting weight arrow, it would be in the 400-425gr range total weight. I had a few that were pushing 500gr or more and one that was shooting close to 700gr. The same mentality applied to rifle bullets too.

They make some material that is the same OD as the ID of the arrow, for weight. You’ll have to get a measurement, but weedeater string can be used and it cheaper. You won’t find one piece to fit perfectly, but you can take 3 pieces and glue or use thin tape to hold it. This allows the arrow to still flex like it needs too. Then get you a brass insert and a heavy broadhead/field point, or a heavier point and an aluminum insert. You are looking for 20% FOC or more. I’ll do some digging and post a friends setup and how he made it, if I can still find it.

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I’ll have to contact him and get a link to how he built his arrows, but this is his standard set-up. He can and will go heavier if he is hunting elk or Buffalo.
0e78dc93c2d93fb0d96c73c933f7596a.jpg



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Here you go. He got back to me pretty quick and sent me a link. I almost clicked this link when I was searching and skipped over it thinking he had a post just on arrows. Guess not. He makes everything and if you happen to follow The Hunting Public on Facebook or YouTube, they talked about his broadhead sharpener in one of their episodes and he had to scramble to buy more 3D printers to keep up with the demand. He is a good dude and bleeds archery. I saw part of his broadhead collection in 2007 at a forum hunt we all went on and it was HUGE and he only brought part of it. He has forgotten more than most of us have ever known.

https://ronkulas.proboards.com/thread/55/archery-bison-blog


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I've shot arrows from 400-580 grains over the past 15 years, currently shooting 485 grain total arrow weight. One thing you need to be careful with is putting too much weight up from with whatever spine arrow you have and the length it's cut too. But, at 63 pounds with a 27" draw length you could load up the front pretty heavy, just be aware that the more weight you add, the weaker the spine gets and at some point it can be dangerously weak. Arrow software can be had for cheap.

What were your arrow specs previously? You have to shoot a MUCH heavier arrow to notice anything at 20 yards. By 40 or 50 you'll start to see a more drastic change and by 80 yards and extra 100 grains (for example) will be very noticeable.

I've always preferred a "heavier" arrow (440 grains plus) but the don't make a mad dash for the 700 grain option. If your hunting asiatic buffalo in Australia or Cape buffalo on the dark continent then sure, go nuts. But, for Whitetail, hogs, elk, etc. in North America shooting a 700 grain Ranch Fairy Special isn't necessary. But, that's just my opinion.

Moderate to heavy arrow with a fixed blade head and a properly tuned set-up (hugely underestimated part of the equation) and you're all set. A properly tuned bow will place broadhead tipped arrows and field points in the same spot at any given distance. Don't let anyone tell that's not possible. If it's not working out then trade in your bow.
 
DocHolladay said:
Here you go. He got back to me pretty quick and sent me a link. I almost clicked this link when I was searching and skipped over it thinking he had a post just on arrows. Guess not. He makes everything and if you happen to follow The Hunting Public on Facebook or YouTube, they talked about his broadhead sharpener in one of their episodes and he had to scramble to buy more 3D printers to keep up with the demand. He is a good dude and bleeds archery. I saw part of his broadhead collection in 2007 at a forum hunt we all went on and it was HUGE and he only brought part of it. He has forgotten more than most of us have ever known.

https://ronkulas.proboards.com/thread/55/archery-bison-blog


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Do a quick search for his name, he is a poacher and has been kicked off every forum out there including this one.
 
What does the subject of this thread mean and who are you talking about in your first post?
 
There is plenty of info in his post about what the OP was asking about. Doesn’t matter that he had a misdemeanor charge in 2013. The info is still valid.


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stonegraham said:
Ok, I cant stand the guy. His voice cut my soul every seconds that I watch his video. But under all that arrogant condesensing smug exterior, he make a strong argument backed by facts/experience/example. So I'm going to give it a try with some spare arrows, not buying any more arrows due to wife knowing how many arrows I already have.

Mathew Creed at 63lbs and 27DL

Carbon Express Mayhem Hunter DS 350 Spine currently at 32in 9.8GPI no insert

G5 Montec 100gr

So what would be the best way to make an 'adult' arrow?
What inserts systems should I get, how long should I cut arrow?
Can I stay with 100gr boardheads or is it better to go 125, 150, 200?

Would I be able to feel any difference practicing with heavier arrows? I am expecting slower speed and more trajectory due to lost of speed. But what else can I expect? Or is the only noticable different would be in actual hunting scenario?

Example of your arrow built is welcome.
Click to expand...
Look up Dr Ed Ashby. He was doing arrow lethality testing in Africa when the Ranch fairy was still in diapers. Dr Ed has arrowed and documented thousands of critters when he lived and guided in Africa. He is the heavy arrow, high foc master. And he is quite entertaining to listen to as well.
Troy gets on my nerves a little bit but his info is what you need to focus upon.
Ed Ashby can be found at
The Ashby bowhunting foundation, Grizzlystik, and I think Tuffhead (maybe). There are a bunch of YouTube videos.
Grizzlystik has all the Ashby reports going way back. Ed is the real deal.
 
I find that using the arrow and broadhead weights and spine stiffness that the bow manufacturer or a pro shop recommends works just fine, and the available additional performance to fine tune from there on out is in the single digits percentage wise, and isn't worth my time. But I do find this topic an interesting read. Carry on.
 
Tap said:
Look up Dr Ed Ashby. He was doing arrow lethality testing in Africa when the Ranch fairy was still in diapers. Dr Ed has arrowed and documented thousands of critters when he lived and guided in Africa. He is the heavy arrow, high foc master. And he is quite entertaining to listen to as well.
Troy gets on my nerves a little bit but his info is what you need to focus upon.
Ed Ashby can be found at
The Ashby bowhunting foundation, Grizzlystik, and I think Tuffhead (maybe). There are a bunch of YouTube videos.
Grizzlystik has all the Ashby reports going way back. Ed is the real deal.
Click to expand...

RF is part of the Ashby foundation.


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weekender21 said:
RF is part of the Ashby foundation.


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I did not realize that.
I did know that everything Troy is doing pretty much came from Ashby.
I just like Ed's style of presentation a little better.
But CONTENT is the important thing, not the personality of who presents the content.

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Tap said:
I did not realize that.
I did know that everything Troy is doing pretty much came from Ashby.
I just like Ed's style of presentation a little better.
But CONTENT is the important thing, not the personality of who presents the content.

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Yeah, RF is nuts but he is reaching a lot of younger archers with the benefits of heavy arrows and high FOC. I don’t personally follow the EFOC or 600+ grain arrow rules but I’d rather see someone shooting a COC broadhead and total arrow weight of 650 grains than a huge mechanical BH and 380 grain arrow.


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weekender21 said:
Yeah, RF is nuts but he is reaching a lot of younger archers with the benefits of heavy arrows and high FOC. I don’t personally follow the EFOC or 600+ grain arrow rules but I’d rather see someone shooting a COC broadhead and total arrow weight of 650 grains than a huge mechanical BH and 380 grain arrow.


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Can I give that TWO likes?

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I recommend getting the ranch fairy kit from ethics archery. You can play around with weights and FOC that way. I found 350 spines in most arrows aren’t great when you get heavy though. I know you don’t want to buy more arrows but a 250 or 300 spine arrow at heavy weights is something you should try experimenting with if you can. 540 grain, 19% FOC, Eason Axis 300 running 200 grain Iron Will V series


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Hoosierhunting said:
I recommend getting the ranch fairy kit from ethics archery. You can play around with weights and FOC that way. I found 350 spines in most arrows aren’t great when you get heavy though. I know you don’t want to buy more arrows but a 250 or 300 spine arrow at heavy weights is something you should try experimenting with if you can. 540 grain, 19% FOC, Eason Axis 300 running 200 grain Iron Will V series


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Your draw weight, draw length and arrow length will determine how much weight you can put up front. .350 will be plenty for some but your average adult male shooting 29/70 will need something more stiff to go the Ashby route.


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I shoot 670 gr arrows:
300 spine pile drivers
100 gr brass inserts
125 grain Magnus 2 blade stinger buzzcuts
Nocturnal nocks

I shoot this heavy primarily to quiet my shot, the extra penetration is just an added bonus.
 
Hoosierhunting said:
I recommend getting the ranch fairy kit from ethics archery. You can play around with weights and FOC that way. I found 350 spines in most arrows aren’t great when you get heavy though. I know you don’t want to buy more arrows but a 250 or 300 spine arrow at heavy weights is something you should try experimenting with if you can. 540 grain, 19% FOC, Eason Axis 300 running 200 grain Iron Will V series


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Yes I discovered 350 is way underspined for the high foc. I am playing with mine now. The Ranch Fairy is very informative and got a lot of his info from Ashby. ashby is a great watch on youtube also, he lost a lot of his testing information when he had to leave Africa in a hurry. I am working on finding my arrows right now. Trying the bare shaft tune and will probably end up in the 250 spine shafts.
 
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