Moss in Plot

[RobbieH]

I have been struggling with one of my plots for 3 years now. It's a little under a half acre and gets just about full sun. The pH is 6.7. Tests also show it needs fertilizer, which I apply accordingly. Clover, chicory, and winter rye will grow, but the clover and chicory grow kind of 'spotty', as in not thick, not good coverage, and not very tall. I have added more seed last year, but it didnt really help. The WR will grow tall in the Spring, but still not as good of a coverage as in another plot I have. That other plot has clover, chicory, and turnips growing very well.

I will keep adding WR each Fall and mow it down in the Spring to act as a green manure, but I think drainage might be my biggest problem here. The soil is not very organic, but rather more like a fill type of material. We get plenty of rain here and there is always a layer of moss in this plot.

Is drainage my problem? What can I do to improve the soil quality?

 

[THE LLC]

Moss is never a good sign.

 

[Mennoniteman]

I have been struggling with one of my plots for 3 years now. It's a little under a half acre and gets just about full sun. The pH is 6.7. Tests also show it needs fertilizer, which I apply accordingly. Clover, chicory, and winter rye will grow, but the clover and chicory grow kind of 'spotty', as in not thick, not good coverage, and not very tall. I have added more seed last year, but it didnt really help. The WR will grow tall in the Spring, but still not as good of a coverage as in another plot I have. That other plot has clover, chicory, and turnips growing very well.

I will keep adding WR each Fall and mow it down in the Spring to act as a green manure, but I think drainage might be my biggest problem here. The soil is not very organic, but rather more like a fill type of material. We get plenty of rain here and there is always a layer of moss in this plot.

Is drainage my problem? What can I do to improve the soil quality?

I think you should consider buckwheat as a soil building spring planting to add to your rotation. If you could get chicken manure or pig manure from a local farmer it would definitely snap that soil into shape but that can be hard to come by.

 

[THE LLC]

Agree, buckwheat is a VERY useful cover crop. Normally, moss being present is a sign of low pH, too.

 

[MarkDarvin]

Start pouring the gypsum to it.

Menards.

 

[Heart shot]

I'm having the same issue in my plot. Moss growing with the clover. Clover seems to growing pretty well, but I top seeded buckwheat and got poor germination and stunted growth. Would love to know what to do.

First step is a soil test I'm sure.....

 

[THE LLC]

Soil test should ALWAYS be the first step. Not sure why folks are hesitant to spend that $8 or so.

 

[Crimson n' Camo]

Is this plot is a wet area or a "bottom"? It might be an issue with lack of oxygen in the soil.

 

[RobbieH]

Moss is never a good sign.

Normally, moss being present is a sign of low pH, too.

Soil test should ALWAYS be the first step. Not sure why folks are hesitant to spend that $8 or so.

LLC, please take another look at my original post before posting replies that are pretty useless.
I wrote that it has a pH of 6.7, and that I fertilize according to what the tests say. This should tell you I did in fact have a test done. "Moss is never a good sign" isn't very helpful. I appreciate your interest, but I'm seeking helpful suggestions.

To the others, thanks for your suggestions. I might try buckwheat this spring. I did try it a few years back and it didn't do too well. I know the soil is better now than then. So it might be worth another shot.
Crimson, this area does tend to stay wet a little longer than others. Rain doesn't puddle up, but it remains soggy. Is there a way to maybe improve the drainage? Or provide more oxygen in the soil?

 

[Cap'n]

I would apply at least 4 oz. of iron per 1000 sq ft and give it a chance to work on the moss, then aerate before seeding WR. Moss like that is an indication of low ph though. you might want to take another soil test of just the top 3-4 inches and send it to a different lab. There are products that help soils perculate and either drain better or hold moisture better. They are used daily on golf courses, athletic fields and lawns in some cases. I sell it all the time. What I recommended is commonly used on turf and i imagine it would help in your situation too..

 

[RobbieH]

Cap'n, thanks for the reply and suggestions. I had the soil tested at two different places. One was a university and the other was white tail institute. This was a couple years ago and they both have the same result. I will send out another this year though, closer to fall time.
Where would I be able to get iron from for this kind of thing? I've never heard of doing that. I like the idea of aerating too. I'll have to see how I can do that. And what would you recommend I use for better drainage?
Thanks again.

 

[Chipdasqrrl]

Cap'n, thanks for the reply and suggestions. I had the soil tested at two different places. One was a university and the other was white tail institute. This was a couple years ago and they both have the same result. I will send out another this year though, closer to fall time.
Where would I be able to get iron from for this kind of thing? I've never heard of doing that. I like the idea of aerating too. I'll have to see how I can do that. And what would you recommend I use for better drainage?
Thanks again.

In my opinion, tillage would be the best option for aerating the soil and especially for improving drainage. Do you have any pictures of the moss? I'm interested to see


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[RobbieH]

No I don't have any pics. But I'll be sure to take some tomorrow or Friday. And would you recommend a deep tillage or more like 3" or so?

 

[Chipdasqrrl]

No I don't have any pics. But I'll be sure to take some tomorrow or Friday. And would you recommend a deep tillage or more like 3" or so?

With drainage likely being the problem, I'd say 6" would be best. I think planting turnips or any other tubers would also be a good idea after tilling, since they will penetrate deep and allow some water to drain.


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[MarkDarvin]

I've got the same type of plot you do. Low, takes longer to dry out in spring/early summer. If you want to aerate it, I wouldn't till it or work it at all. That's going to bust up all your soil aggregation and make it even tighter. I'd abandon the spring plots for now and get into a rotation of fall planted rye and brassica. I'd go full rate of rye, and a quarter rate of brassica. Let that rye grow all the way to when you want to plant again in the fall.

Some cover crop growers terminate their rye as early as they can get their herbicide to work in spring on the theory it'll save ground water. So I am going to try to grow a full rate and use that rye to transpire the water up outta the soil in May and June.

Gypsum will give you calcium which will help create pore space in your soil. The sulfur in gypsum will help strip out excess magnesium that might exist that is keeping your soil tight. It also won't change your pH. If those things don't work, you'll have to trench the water out of it if you have some place to go with it.

 

[Chipdasqrrl]

It's true that tillage could end up compacting soil, but I still believe it would help with drainage. And if your soil is compacted, buckwheat is supposed to help with that. But of course I'm no expert, it's just my opinion


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[RobbieH]

Thanks again for the suggestions. I'm wondering if a combination of the above suggestions would be a good start. Spreading gypsum, having it tilled under, then growing WR and brassicas this fall. Maybe even buckwheat next spring. I looked online at gypsum fertilizer and it seems that no places around here have it. Lowes, WalMart, Ace, etc. And the online retailers all want an insane amount of money for shipping. I'll ask a guy at work who has a dairy farm.
I took these pics earlier today, showing the moss. This plot is pretty much blanketed in it.

 

[Buckly]

A couple of things..... Moss thrives in low fertility soil. Moss also doesn't really have a root system, it just sits on top so the PH isn't really making a difference. Moss likes shade and dampness. I have successfully planted plots where moss once thrived. If you change the conditions that moss thrives in it will go away. I suggest adding fertilizer to add nutrients. Get as much sun and/or drainage as possible and yes add some more lime. It doesn't matter so much what you plant as much as getting those nutrients back up in the soil so other things grow and chokes out the moss.

 

[Cap'n]

I was thinking spraying iron and aeration because I figured you didnt want to till your clover up. (Assuming its a perennial ) But if you aren't concerned with that then just till it. I'd do that before I spent any money on products. Apparently ph isn't your problem. You might consider building a berm or terrace to channel the water around your plot.

 

[Cap'n]

Thanks again for the suggestions. I'm wondering if a combination of the above suggestions would be a good start. Spreading gypsum, having it tilled under, then growing WR and brassicas this fall. Maybe even buckwheat next spring. I looked online at gypsum fertilizer and it seems that no places around here have it. Lowes, WalMart, Ace, etc. And the online retailers all want an insane amount of money for shipping. I'll ask a guy at work who has a dairy farm.
I took these pics earlier today, showing the moss. This plot is pretty much blanketed in it.
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See if there are any fertilizer wholesalers in the area like CPS or Harrels, they will have gypsum. Surly there are golf courses around there that they sell to.