Midwest Deer Trees vs Bluehill

[NoviceTreeGuy]

Does anyone know the story with Midwest Deer Trees? Do they sell good trees?

They seem to sell some same trees that Ryan at Bluehill sells. Do they share scion wood?

Just curious if I should give em a shot or stick with Bluehill.

 

[Native Hunter]

Some trees they sell that are the same (Like Buckman and Big Dog) came from a grower in Minnesota who posts on the other deer forum. He is probably acquainted with both of them, so that would explain both having some of the same scions.

Blue Hill uses Dolgo rootstock and Midwest does too. Midwest also uses Antonovka. Both rootstocks have a good reputation for doing well in a wide variety of soil types, and both make a big solidly grounded tree. My knowledge of Antonovka is only vicarious, because I haven't planted any of those, but I wouldn't be afraid to based on feedback from people I trust.

My advice is to look at what each one offers and buy what you feel like will work for you.

 

[Flatiron75]

Our camp in the mountains of NC Pa. has mostly 3 different apple rootstocks on grafted trees that we've planted starting in Spring 2013. Native (^ ^ ^ ^ above) mentioned a couple of them. Antonovka, Dolgo, and MM-111 are the 3 varieties of rootstocks on most of our apple & crab trees. All are well-anchored and thrive in most soils ...... MM-111 being better for wetter soils / clay soils. All 3 rootstocks will grow big trees - usually between 18 and 30ft. tall.

We have a number of apple & crab trees from Blue Hill Wildlife Nursery. They are in Central Pa., and are on the way to our camp. I know the owner, Ryan long enough to know he's very serious about what varieties he grows for sale. He researches his fruit trees for DR, drop times, cold-hardiness, etc. and travels to lots of locations to get first-hand knowledge and visual confirmation of the trees he grafts for sale. We have no problems with any of Blue Hill's trees. ---------- We have no Midwest Deer Tree stock planted at camp. No reason, other than Blue Hill is close to our camp, we know the owner, and how fussy he is with his trees. Nothing against Midwest Deer Trees at all - just have no experience with them.

 

[RGrizzzz]

Similar situation as @Flatiron75. BlueHill is on my way to camp, so we buy from Ryan. No shipping charges is nice. When you pick up, he doesn't have to top the 2 year old trees. Everything has done great. Only one tree didn't bud out this year, and Ryan replaced it in my order for Spring. I've planted 50-60 with another 15 for next year.

 

[Mennoniteman]

Similar situation as @Flatiron75. BlueHill is on my way to camp, so we buy from Ryan. No shipping charges is nice. When you pick up, he doesn't have to top the 2 year old trees. Everything has done great. Only one tree didn't bud out this year, and Ryan replaced it in my order for Spring. I've planted 50-60 with another 15 for next year.

But you usually top those trees when you plant them anyway, right? On bare root trees I find they get a lot better start if you cut off about 1/3 of the length, and it makes a nicely shaped start for future pruning. Letting a bare root tree in a whip usually doesn't make a nice shape for a fruit tree, they tend to spread out in crown on a top-heavy whip.

 

[RGrizzzz]

But you usually top those trees when you plant them anyway, right? On bare root trees I find they get a lot better start if you cut off about 1/3 of the length, and it makes a nicely shaped start for future pruning. Letting a bare root tree in a whip usually doesn't make a nice shape for a fruit tree, they tend to spread out in crown on a top-heavy whip.

I don't top the 2 year old trees. (pretty much all that he sells in apples/pears) Most look like they have a bit cut off the central leader. They all have exhibited great growth planting them as is. I will remove some of the lower laterals, mostly below 4'-5'. He has a planting instructions video on YouTube, and I generally follow exactly what he's suggesting/doing. After a year I'll start pruning a little heavier.

 

[Flatiron75]

I've planted a number of whips from other nurseries over the years. I always top those about 10" -12" down on a 4' to 5' whip. Topping forces the tree to start pushing laterals for more leaf surface/photosynthesis needs. That's always worked for me - and I got that advice from a couple commercial orchard owners. I wasn't born with apple tree knowledge!!!

As new baby lateral buds begin to form on the central leader, it's easy to train the crotch angles of those newly-forming lateral branches by placing spring-type clothes pins directly above those baby laterals - right against them. That will force growth to be about 90 degrees out from the leader (trunk), which makes a much stronger crotch angle for holding future fruit loads. Keep doing that up the trunk as the tree grows, for as high as you wish, depending on how tall your tree will get. After a year or 2, I remove the clothes pins, moving them higher on newer lateral buds as needed.

As RGrizzzz said above, I too prune off the lower laterals, so the lowest branches are 6' above ground or higher to limit deer damage. I prune off a lower limb or 2 each year as the tree grows, leaving plenty of limbs/canopy for photosynthesis feeding of the trees. Can't be in a rush, or the tree might croak!

 

[Mennoniteman]

I've planted a number of whips from other nurseries over the years. I always top those about 10" -12" down on a 4' to 5' whip. Topping forces the tree to start pushing laterals for more leaf surface/photosynthesis needs. That's always worked for me - and I got that advice from a couple commercial orchard owners. I wasn't born with apple tree knowledge!!!

As new baby lateral buds begin to form on the central leader, it's easy to train the crotch angles of those newly-forming lateral branches by placing spring-type clothes pins directly above those baby laterals - right against them. That will force growth to be about 90 degrees out from the leader (trunk), which makes a much stronger crotch angle for holding future fruit loads. Keep doing that up the trunk as the tree grows, for as high as you wish, depending on how tall your tree will get. After a year or 2, I remove the clothes pins, moving them higher on newer lateral buds as needed.

As RGrizzzz said above, I too prune off the lower laterals, so the lowest branches are 6' above ground or higher to limit deer damage. I prune off a lower limb or 2 each year as the tree grows, leaving plenty of limbs/canopy for photosynthesis feeding of the trees. Can't be in a rush, or the tree might croak!

This is a good treatise on tree shaping. And where I'm at, if you don't prune off those lower laterals a bear will trim them off for you.