http://www.midwestwhitetail.com/fruit-plots-apple-orchards/
There is some pretty good info on some of these shows
There is some pretty good info on some of these shows
looks like good info
- Thread starter buckdeer1
- Start date
dogghr
Well-Known Member
That was a good read Buck, thanks for showing. Be interesting of the thots of the apple gurus on this forum as he does have a little different technique. Was surprised at the amount of N he added over the years. I've always used 10-10-10 and never super treated with Urea. His idea of using a t-post to prevent rubbing is an excellent idea for any tree, may have to put that in place. His tree choices are good even tho I tend to buy what is on sale.
Turkey Creek
Well-Known Member
From my perspective some good info, some contradictory info and some poor info, but that goes for most sources. The problem with most articles and videos is that the writer/ speaker makes the mistake of believing that all growing locations are the same as theirs.
1. He says B118 is superior to all other root stocks. Plant it on clay soil next to M111 and tell me in 5 years it is superior.
2. He says plant your trees 12' apart, if you want them to form a solid wall in a few years then go 12'. No reason to plant trees that close to each other.
3. If you are going to plant your tree with the graft union at ground level then you have already planted the tree deeper than it was grown prior to receiving it. Typically planting a tree too deep can kill existing roots. Also you run the risk of the graft union getting buried and then the scion possibly rooting and losing the size influence of the root stock.
4.I can see why the guy heads back everything, over fertilizing leads to thin diameter, lanky wood. Can also lead to a lot of blind wood (no leaf or flower buds). Heading back every branch only leads to short scaffold branches with tons of lateral branches.
5. Some places may have aphids at leaf break but I have never seen them until mid to late summer here. I wouldnt spray unless you have a pest.
1. He says B118 is superior to all other root stocks. Plant it on clay soil next to M111 and tell me in 5 years it is superior.
2. He says plant your trees 12' apart, if you want them to form a solid wall in a few years then go 12'. No reason to plant trees that close to each other.
3. If you are going to plant your tree with the graft union at ground level then you have already planted the tree deeper than it was grown prior to receiving it. Typically planting a tree too deep can kill existing roots. Also you run the risk of the graft union getting buried and then the scion possibly rooting and losing the size influence of the root stock.
4.I can see why the guy heads back everything, over fertilizing leads to thin diameter, lanky wood. Can also lead to a lot of blind wood (no leaf or flower buds). Heading back every branch only leads to short scaffold branches with tons of lateral branches.
5. Some places may have aphids at leaf break but I have never seen them until mid to late summer here. I wouldnt spray unless you have a pest.
Native Hunter
Well-Known Member
Turkey Creek and I were typing at the same time. Below is what I had:
Good read, but the information is general. My thoughts below:
Good read, but the information is general. My thoughts below:
- The frost pocket info was very good and important.
- There is no way you can say that any one rootstock is the best for ever situation. B118 is good (I just planted 8 apple trees with that rootstock) but it is not the best for every situation.
- The list of apples includes Wolf River. Several people on the forums who don't spray have reported serious fireblight infections with that apple (on semi-dwarfing rootstocks). I have one planted and will find out for myself someday.
- His top apple - Liberty is a great one, but is done dropping here weeks before time for me to start hunting. Black Limbertwig is a little later and has all the best attributes of Liberty. There are other good DR apples later dropping that should be considered as well.
- He didn't mentioned screen wire around the base of the tree to prevent gnawing by rodents. He did mention painting periodically with hot pepper paint. That is going to get old quickly, and I will bet that most people will just quit doing it at some point.
- I like starting with a 5 foot fence all the way to the ground instead of 4 foot raised up. Then when the tree matures I trim to 3 foot. No big deal, just a matter of preference. You will be glad to have the fence near the ground if the weed eater gets out of control.
- Instead of rocks to hold down ground mats, I prefer the metal staples. Rocks don't go well with mower blades.
- All in all, a pretty good read.
