Keystone Krops

I was trying to decide if I want to go doe hunting one more time or work on some hinge cutting projects that I'd like to get done.
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Mennoniteman said:
You can apply Thunder during any time of growing season, but only 1 application per year, pre-plant or post-emergence, but only for legumes like clover, alfalfa or birdsfoot trefoil. I prefer midsummer, and yes, the residual will continue to keep them clean for a while. Spraying every year keeps clover clean year round. I'd advise using this only on long term clover fields so that the several month residual doesn't matter. 3-6 oz per acre is application rate, I usually put 10 oz in 25 gallons of water and spray 1.5 to 2 acres with this, shooting for a 5oz. per acre average. Its critical to mix 64oz of ams in 25 gallons of water first, and 16 oz of crop oil before adding Thunder. I wouldn't mix with any other herbicides. It's rated for weeds 3-6" high, but I've had good results with bigger weeds later in the summer. Directions say for best results mow the clover first, then spray. I usually spray a week or two after mowing in early to midsummer, but have had good results late summer as well. This stuff kills most weeds, including my main late summer problem weeds; ragweed, marestail, thistles, foxtail etc. Thunder kills grass and broadleafs so no need for clethodim when using this. I just got a gallon at Daniel's farm store for $199, which is about $6.50 an acre, so not as expensive as it seems, and this stuff will make picture perfect clover if used properly. I have perfect clover with this stuff, so I never tried Imox for comparison, which is a similar chemical but not the same. Only if Thunder quits working or becomes unavailable will I switch to Imox.

Other observations; I've had mixed results with 2,4-DB (BUTYRAC® 200) on clover, I won't be buying it any more.

Last year I had several perfect clover plots, so I didn't bother spraying at all since there were only a few random blades of grass. But on hindsight I should have sprayed, every one of those blades of grass had a cattail head that went to seed and this year I've got a major grass problem in those particular fields and have to play catchup with the weeds. Lesson learned and note to self (again) Spray my clover plots with Thunder herbicide every year, even if they look clean.
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MM...Are you using liquid AMS or the powder form? If the powder, what’s the rate you are mixing?
 
deer patch said:
MM...Are you using liquid AMS or the powder form? If the powder, what’s the rate you are mixing?
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I'm using spray grade granulated AMS in 50 lb bags, I buy for $15 a bag. For spraying ROUNDUP POWERMAX (48.8% glyphosate) For 2 acres of roundup ready corn and beans with light weeds I mix 25 gallon ATV sprayer, 13' boom nozzles, drive 4 to 7 mph, mix as follows; add 64 oz spray grade Ammonium sulfate & 16 oz of crop oil per 25 gallons of water FIRST, then add 11-16 oz of glyphosate per acre. For a burndown mix I use about 32oz. per acre, for something tough to kill, like terminating a clover field I use the maximum recomended rate of 48oz. per acre.
 
Mennoniteman said:
I'm using spray grade granulated AMS in 50 lb bags, I buy for $15 a bag. For spraying ROUNDUP POWERMAX (48.8% glyphosate) For 2 acres of roundup ready corn and beans with light weeds I mix 25 gallon ATV sprayer, 13' boom nozzles, drive 4 to 7 mph, mix as follows; add 64 oz spray grade Ammonium sulfate & 16 oz of crop oil per 25 gallons of water FIRST, then add 11-16 oz of glyphosate per acre. For a burndown mix I use about 32oz. per acre, for something tough to kill, like terminating a clover field I use the maximum recomended rate of 48oz. per acre.
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I wish we could pin messages. I will need this someday and not be able to find it. :D
 
Mennoniteman said:
I'm using spray grade granulated AMS in 50 lb bags, I buy for $15 a bag. For spraying ROUNDUP POWERMAX (48.8% glyphosate) For 2 acres of roundup ready corn and beans with light weeds I mix 25 gallon ATV sprayer, 13' boom nozzles, drive 4 to 7 mph, mix as follows; add 64 oz spray grade Ammonium sulfate & 16 oz of crop oil per 25 gallons of water FIRST, then add 11-16 oz of glyphosate per acre. For a burndown mix I use about 32oz. per acre, for something tough to kill, like terminating a clover field I use the maximum recomended rate of 48oz. per acre.
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Thanks for the info.
 
Mennoniteman said:
I'm making my cornfield bigger today.
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That is awesome! It seems habitat projects get bigger and bigger every year. I remember when just doing a food plot was considered progressive. Now look at us!

I'm going down the same path. I used to fret about renting a skid steer for one day. Then it went to skid steer and a mower. Then a couple days with a mini ex and a mower. Now, this year I'll probably be doing 2 days with an excavator and a day with a skid steer and a mower. And I just might rent a big boy excavator for a week in the fall.
 
MarkDarvin said:
That is awesome! It seems habitat projects get bigger and bigger every year. I remember when just doing a food plot was considered progressive. Now look at us!

I'm going down the same path. I used to fret about renting a skid steer for one day. Then it went to skid steer and a mower. Then a couple days with a mini ex and a mower. Now, this year I'll probably be doing 2 days with an excavator and a day with a skid steer and a mower. And I just might rent a big boy excavator for a week in the fall.
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In my mind I haven't compared it that way, but now that you've given me occasion to get me thinking about it,, you are right. The size of our deer management projects is increasing. I think the reason behind the madness is that we've gradually come to the awareness that it's possible to manipulate and move our deer herd to be wherever we want them to be, rather than just sitting out in the middle of the woods and hoping that it's the right spot like we did years ago. With that knowledge comes the initiative to do it on a bigger scale. If a person can make a buck bed by taking a shovel and making a level spot on the military crest of a hill, why not take a bulldozer and make permanent level deer beds for 100 yards or more along the military crest of the ridge? Or, in other words, for most deer habitat projects, whatever works on a small scale also works well on a larger scale. And the larger the scale, the longer the results last before the need arises to do it again. Therefore, the real motivation behind bigger equipment is actually laziness.
Anyway, hopefully you will get amazing results from getting in an excavator to do some work this summer. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.
 
Mennoniteman said:
In my mind I haven't compared it that way, but now that you've given me occasion to get me thinking about it,, you are right. The size of our deer management projects is increasing. I think the reason behind the madness is that we've gradually come to the awareness that it's possible to manipulate and move our deer herd to be wherever we want them to be, rather than just sitting out in the middle of the woods and hoping that it's the right spot like we did years ago. With that knowledge comes the initiative to do it on a bigger scale. If a person can make a buck bed by taking a shovel and making a level spot on the military crest of a hill, why not take a bulldozer and make permanent level deer beds for 100 yards or more along the military crest of the ridge? Or, in other words, for most deer habitat projects, whatever works on a small scale also works well on a larger scale. And the larger the scale, the longer the results last before the need arises to do it again. Therefore, the real motivation behind bigger equipment is actually laziness.
Anyway, hopefully you will get amazing results from getting in an excavator to do some work this summer. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.
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I can't wait to...
geter.jpg

Soon as my land dries up enough, there's gonna be dirt flyin.
 
nice, I'm guessing pushing two chord in that pile, how much do you put up for the year?

G
 
A freezer full of venison and assorted wild game including a few grouse, two dozen or so canned jars of venison, fiddleheads, preserved (canned or frozen) garden vegetables, and a huge pile of firewood spells a carefree winter. The fire wood pile is a good start.
 
Alright, who spilled the beans?
Note to self; if you are in a hurry to quick go plant some beans, it will probably pay to slow down and take the time to check off the different items on the checklist or something will be sure to go wrong. Like pouring a bag of seed into the drill before closing the seed cups and having about 40,000 soybeans rolling around on the shop floor.
e8570a17343902d1b7c31430c3abd6c0.jpg
 
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